BA stealth 110 scope rail screws

[bossmav]

The scope mounting screws on the BA stealth may be a little short, what I mean by that is according to CS at Savage 2 of the screws are a little longer than the other 2, my screws were all the same length and after firing 30 rounds my scope rail had come loose and it seems after a quick google search I wasn't the only one this has happened to. I sell fasteners for a living and thought I'd just order longer ones and fix the problem BUT the 8-40 cheese head screws that Savage uses for this gun is a gun thread screw and not a common size for industrial or for the public so the kind people at Savage are sending me new screws :-) Check your screws and make sure they are tight, if not remove and clean both the mounting holes and screws than Loctite them when you mount the rail.

Hopes this helps.

Terry

[Zero333]

Make sure the countersink angle matches the screw head angle. If it doesn't, it will keep coming loose no matter what you do.

I've heard of this type of problem on Savage supplied base.

You can get a Weaver 20 moa rail for $27 from opticsplanet if it keeps getting loose.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/weaver-extended-multi-slot-bases.html

Have have 3 of the Weaver 20 moa bases (on a 300winmag, 243win and 308win) and can't believe the value of these rails. They even have a machined slot that acts like a recoil lug for the base.

[bossmav]

Make sure the countersink angle matches the screw head angle. If it doesn't, it will keep coming loose no matter what you do.

I've heard of this type of problem on Savage supplied base.

You can get a Weaver 20 moa rail for $27 from opticsplanet if it keeps getting loose.
http://www.opticsplanet.com/weaver-extended-multi-slot-bases.html

Have have 3 of the Weaver 20 moa bases (on a 300winmag, 243win and 308win) and can't believe the value of these rails. They even have a machined slot that acts like a recoil lug for the base.

Most of my scope rails do have the standard 82 degree flat socket head cap screws but Savage went with a cheese head style screw with a T10 torx to remove the screws? Not my first choice but I'm not a engineer either.