Factory base rail on Mod 11/111 LRH 338 Laupa

[Spiritofthree]

Looking for advice on the factory base rail that come with the MOD 11/111 LRH 338 Laupa. Has anyone else had problems with this coming lose? Are you using the factory rail or have you replaced it with a high quality steel rail? I know that the Torx screws changed with the 338 Laupa to 8/40 threads. Any recommendations on a quality rail? I just got the gun in December, put a NightForce NSX on it and was working up a load, first firing was OK, had some sub 1/2 MOA @ 100 yrd, then the second round of refining the shot groups went crazy, open up with flyers had to stop. Was in the process to remounting and checking the scope and found that the base was not tight. I checked this before mounting the first time.

[hafejd30]

Make sure you use locktite. I prefer blue. Just don't use red. Torque to spec and it should hold fine. I run a ken farrel on mine. Had the 110 ba rail and that never came loose either when I used that.

[ruebarb]

The new 338 Lapaua have this issue, though Savage Pretends they know nothing about it.

I have 2 guys at the range who also have the same exact Issue. I have the 110 BA Stealth. it takes ~ 30 rounds for the scope rail to loosen and just about fall off.

First time I figured a freak issue, so I cleaned, blue loctite and 20 " lbs of torque. It came back 30 rounds later.

I brought my rifle to Savage a few days before Christmas, took them 3-4 week to supposedly fix it. Just took it out today, 30 rounds later my rail is lose once again.

Upon inspection it looks like their repair was just to use new screws, they didn't do a darn thing to fix the actual problem, just put in new identical screws. I am totally pissed, my first Savage and this is what I get....

The main issue is the lack of proper thread engagement. My screws are 8-40 x 3/16, they only have 2 threads of engagement into the receiver, the engineer and the gunsmith have to be a total idiot to think this design will work.

Common knowledge is 4-5 threads minimum or 1 screw diameter in length.

I am not sending it back a 2nd time at this point. I'll just repair it myself with proper length screws. I'll post up the repair, be a week or so before I have the parts.


Can you edit the thread name to include "lose" so others may find it. "Factory base rail Lose"...

[Zero333]

I had a rail come loose when I used a torque wrench at the recommended in/lbs.

Problem went away when I tightened it by feel.

[ruebarb]

I have repaired my 110 BA Stealth in 338 Lapua, rail issue. 35 rounds, still holding zero.

4 Major issues

1st, the threads are not cut properly
2nd, bad threads destroying screws
3rd, only 2 threads of engagement on all screws
4th, scope rail screw depth cuts are wrong, the 1st to hole should be cut to allow for a min of 1st hole 4 threads, 2nd hole 5-6 threads, last 2 holes 6-7 threads

I replaced their crap scope rail for EGW (For round receiver, they have another model for Flat ) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EJS7E9I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used blue loctite and 20 inch lbs

Plug tap

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YW0D2G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bottom tap, I had to gring a little excess not threaded material off the bottom, this is only for the 1st hole

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FCLH80/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap tap handle, works enough

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YOB0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

100 yards, 5 rounds, I'll take responsibility for the flier

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=192867&d=1489130241