buying used 110 what to avoid ?

[kingdombuilder]

in buying an older rifle are there years to avoid where manufacturing wasnt up to par . or not just years like styles flat back vs round or 110 economy and so on. i am looking to a used 7mm rem mag vs getting just a barrel and switching . i can get 110 for around 300 for rifle or just get barrel and switch ? what to do. i am looking to make a long range hunting rifle . if i make barrel it will be 300 wsm small shank . opinions please thanks

[Robinhood]

The centerfeed actions have the most going for them but I like 'em both. Had some smooth flat backs(staggerfeed) ever the years. there is a rather significant difference in the magazine and the inlet between the two. I would look for an unmolested rifle too. Twisted actions from improper barrel removal techniques is possible. If it is tweaked you can usually pull the bolt out and look down the raceway and tell. Also if it is just an action make sure there are no stripped holes.

[hereinaz]

I understand Savage puts their WSM in large shank actions.

[olddav]

Avoid those with the scope bases permanently attached (no screws). It has been reported they as hit and miss on quality, not a bright spot in Savage's history.

[olddav]

I would encourage you to look at the FAQ section and read any and all post regarding actions and bolts. You should find a lot of good info pertaining to your project, at least scan it over.

[Zero333]

Used rifles are a gamble sometimes. You don't know if the used 7mm remmag is a good shooter or a shotgun. It will cost you around $300 for a quality pre-fit barrel or $85 for a new take-off sporter (check Northlandshooterssuply.com if you want a new take-off factory barrel)

Barrel nut wrench $ 30 ?
Action Wrench $ 60 ?
Go / No-Go gauges $ 60 ? ( or $30 cause you can do with out the no-go by turning the go-gauge into a no-go by taping a layer of masking tape on the head)

Shipping $ ?

Even if you had a bore scope it might be hard to tell if a factory barrel is shot out because they don't look very nice from new. Usually I look for dry lake bed looking stuff in the first several inches of the barrel after the chamber.


It's always nicer to have 2 rifles instead of 1 that gets barrels switched around.

Look at the bolt face how clean it looks or how rough it looks, this might tell you how well the rifle was maintained and possibly if it's had thousands of rounds down the barrel.

Look at the back of the bolt lugs (the front ones, not the ones that spin around) and look if they have good & even receiver contact.

Look at the bolt raceway to see if it's straight.

Run the bolt back and forth. Close the bolt and try fire, the open the bolt. See if everything feels like it should.

If the rifle looks like it's been well used, as in had many rounds down the bore, but the bolt action doesn't feel smooth, I would pass on the rifle.

Some new rifles need the bolt action to be worked in before it becomes smoother, this shouldn't be the case with a older rifle.