New gun, how to get ready?

[stash]

Just received my new Savage 12VLP DBM .223 "9:1 Twist" :). Anybody have any tips on how to check everything BEFORE shooting. Cosmetically it's fine.
I want to take care of it properly from the start and to be honest with you I have never broken in a barrel, I just shot. Is it really necessary or just preventive maintenance and to assure accuracy?

thanks!!

Stash

[GUNFANATIC]

Just give it a good cleaning and go shoot. Forget that "barrel break-in" junk. As long as you don't get the barrel too hot, your good. If accuracy begins to drop off, clean it again.

[stash]

Thanks for the reply. I have noticed that as compared to my CZ452 when new, there is practically no oil on the gun?. Just about dry?
Is this normal for a SS Savage?

Stash

[pphreed]

I tend to agree with gun fanatic but there is no harm in doing a break in routine fi it makes you feel more secure that you are doing rverthing posssible to make it perform its best enjoy your new gun Fred

[Pete K.]

Just received my new Savage 12VLP DBM .223 "9:1 Twist" :). Anybody have any tips on how to check everything BEFORE shooting. Cosmetically it's fine.
I want to take care of it properly from the start and to be honest with you I have never broken in a barrel, I just shot. Is it really necessary or just preventive maintenance and to assure accuracy?

thanks!!

Stash


Stash, I have the exact rifle as you except ,mine is a single shot. I will include a few links so you can read them and make up your own mind about break in. I firmly believe that more barrels are ruined by incorrect cleaning methods than from rounds fired. I would advise betting a good bore guide such as a Lucas and a one piece Carbon fiber cleaning rod. Using these you will never touch the lands in your barrel to cause damage.... never!!. Always clean from the chamber end out through the muzzle. I don't believe in scrubbing the bore in a back and forth motion as all your doing is rubbing junk into the lands. One pass through, remove the jag, wipe the rod, put on the jag with patch or brush and go at it again. Repeat until no blue or green color is on the patch.
These articles all seem to say that the very first bullet shot lays down some copper and powder residue,. The second bullet again under great pressures say 45,000 ppi and terrific heat now seals in the first layer of powder residue and copper under new copper. Without cleaning for break in. Multiply that by the number of following rounds.
Starting with a clean dry barrel the very first round fired starts to smooth out any machine marks left behind from the factory. If you clean between the first several rounds you are giving each round fired a chance to do some polishing. If you don't clean you are building up layers of copper and powder which will bury the imperfections and not allow for polishing. One article mentioned that the owner found some stainless shavings in the brand new bore from the factory. Imagine what that would do to the bore being pushed through at over 45,000 lbs. per inch and maybe 3300 feet per second!! Talk about a scratch...Don't fire a single round until you clean the bore!!
What I did being a fanatic. I cleaned the bore, fired one round and cleaned, repeat five times, fire five rounds and clean, repeat five times, fire ten rounds and clean, repeat two or three times until you get sick of it. I did this in 20 degree weather and couldn't feel my fingers.
The result is I can't really see any copper to speak of after fifty rounds fired. Hardly any blue or green. I only use nylon brushes not brass. I use a foaming bore cleaner, block the chamber with a soft ear plug and let sit upright for a hour or more. I do not get any mess as the bore is as smooth as it can possibly be.

Lucas Bore Guide review;

http://www.6mmbr.com/catalog/item/1433308/954882.htm


Tipton one piece carbon fiber rod from Optics Planet one of our sponsors. You'll need the 44" in 22 to 26 cal.

Get a good brass pointed jag and some nylon brushes, a good brass slotted patch holder,many all cotton 3/4" round patches. Bore cleaner of your choice, some Butches Bees Wax for the stock, some fine gun oil such as Rem Oil or other

http://www.opticsplanet.net/tipton-deluxe-1-piece-carbon-fiber-cleaning-rod-22-26.html


Articles on cleaning. Remember custom match barrels are usually lapped and finished much smoother that factory barrels and should require less break in.

http://www.rifle-accuracy-reports.com/barrel-break-in.html

http://www.custompistols.com/bengtson/articles/bblcare.htm

http://www.shootingillustrated.com/Expert_Advice/Gun%20Mods/barrel_break_in.html


Try some Black Hills 52 grain match HP if your not reloading.

http://www.fulton-armory.com/newammo.htm


Enjoy you new 12 VLP!!

Pete K. :)

[stash]

Thanks for the wealth of info. Normally I use a Bore-snake for cleaning, I see there is a new Bore Snake Viper model.

Is a rod cleaning better than a bore snake?


Thanks!!



Stash

[GUNFANATIC]

Thanks for the wealth of info. Normally I use a Bore-snake for cleaning, I see there is a new Bore Snake Viper model.

Is a rod cleaning better than a bore snake?


Thanks!!



Stash



Absolutely! As mentioned, I one piece rod and jag will do far more than the bore snake.

[rjtfroggy]

I also use the "bore snake" but only after I thoroughly clean with patched and brush. I use them to get any loose stuff remaining in the barrel and chamber area then pass a lightly coated patch of LOCK EZZE through the bore.

On shot gun barrels only use the snakes,unless they have adjustable choke then I remove and clean the choke by hand.

[Nefarioud]

I've not seen mention of the fact that all of the Savages are proofed (fired) at the factory and usually come with dirty barrels new in the box.

I usually clean the barrel very well with a nylon brush (back and forth) using the Lucas bore guide and Tipton CF rod. Then I follow up with patching with Shooters choice or JB's on a Tipton Jag (I like these, they have a little taper that seems to give better feel)

Something I've done on all of the savages, though I'm not exactly sure why, it just seems to be something to do and seems to make the barrel easier to clean is fire-lap with final finish using all five compound on a new barrel. It seems to bring the barrels in quicker, but I can't be sure because I've done it to all my factory barrels and they may be just good anyway.

When we go out to actually shoot, not test or some other business, we are out for at least six or seven hours and go through about 200 rounds per gun. I've noticed very little build up after 200 rounds of not cleaning, I think this might be due to the Fire lapping.

[Snowwolfe]

Just give it a good cleaning and go shoot. Forget that "barrel break-in" junk. As long as you don't get the barrel too hot, your good. If accuracy begins to drop off, clean it again.


This is about as good as advice gets. Would add just to check the action screws to make sure they are tightened correctly.

[bushwack]

I'm not a big fan of bore brushes, of any type. While the brush itself won't harm your bore, the carbon that get's impregnated into it will. It'll turn that brush into a lapping tool. There are too many good bore cleaning chemicals available now that eliminates the need for a lot of brushing. I don't think there's enough emphasis put into keeping the chamber & throat areas clean. From what I understand, heat will kill your barrel quicker than a dirty bore.