BARREL CLEANING

[AVanGorder]

any one ever used slip 2000 carbon killer?

Yes - It is kids stuff compared to KG1.

Adrian

[Pete K.]

What is the best carbon cutter bar none?.....

KG1 is the best thing I have found. I know exactly what you are talking about. I neglected my first two bench rest barrels and had a dickens of a time getting it out... I tried every thing I could get my hands on. KG1 is without a doubt the best thing I could find. It works very well.

Adrian
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=753983&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=10612


Adrian,
So I did a little checking on the KG1 and found an interesting report. See link. Is the KG12 just a larger container? How much do you use for one good cleaning? What I'm asking should I just order the KG12?

http://www.jarheadtop.com/KG12_Test_Results.htm


Pete K.

OK, I figured it out... KG1 is for carbon and KG12 is for copper removal. Thanks.... Then there's KG3 aerosol that removes both... right?

[MikePrice]

The best bar none is Deaton Gun Care.

http://www.deatonsguncare.com/

[AVanGorder]

What is the best carbon cutter bar none?.....

KG1 is the best thing I have found. I know exactly what you are talking about. I neglected my first two bench rest barrels and had a dickens of a time getting it out... I tried every thing I could get my hands on. KG1 is without a doubt the best thing I could find. It works very well.

Adrian
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=753983&utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=free&utm_campaign=10612


Adrian,
So I did a little checking on the KG1 and found an interesting report. See link. Is the KG12 just a larger container? How much do you use for one good cleaning? What I'm asking should I just order the KG12?

http://www.jarheadtop.com/KG12_Test_Results.htm


Pete K.

OK, I figured it out... KG1 is for carbon and KG12 is for copper removal. Thanks.... Then there's KG3 aerosol that removes both... right?


Pete,

KG12 is a wonderful product, the only downside is that you aren't sure when all the copper is out. Most copper cleaners present a dark blue color when copper is there. When there is no more dark blue on the patch, you're done. KG12 is strange, you won't see that dark blue color. It's more brownish. But KG12 will clean the copper out and it does it extremely fast.

I conducted my own test a couple years ago. I got as many copper cleaners as I could get my hands on, put one drop of each on different pennies, let them stay over night. The next day I wiped them off. Most of them did nothing, some removed some tarnish. KG12 actually pitted the penny.

KG1 - Saturate a patch and run it down the barrel, do it three times so the barrel is nice and coated. Wait about two minutes and scrub the barrel with a bronze brush which also has the KG1 on it. I typically stroke 15 times then run three dry patches down the barrel. You will feel the barrel is much smoother after doing this.

Adrian

[okie2]

I did the same thing with sweets 762 on a penny for 3 days
it did nothing to the copper

[Eric in NC]

Not too surprising - very little copper in a penny these days. You would need to try it on one from the 1970's or 60's to see its real effect on copper.

"After 1962, the tin content of the penny was removed completely, and the cent was minted with a composition of 95 percent copper and 5 percent zinc. This remained the standard until 1982, when the composition was once again changed. This time, the penny’s copper content was drastically reduced. The new penny was composed of 97.5 percent zinc and 2.5 percent copper and it remains this way today"

[ultramag44]

Adrian said:
KG1 - Saturate a patch and run it down the barrel, do it three times so the barrel is nice and coated. Wait about two minutes and scrub the barrel with a bronze brush which also has the KG1 on it. I typically stroke 15 times then run three dry patches down the barrel. You will feel the barrel is much smoother after doing this. Adrian

Adrian,

Bronze is a mix of copper & brass (the proportions escape me @ the moment). Doesn't the KG1 work on the bronze brush? Would disolving bronze brush material also show up on the patches? How do you know the barrel's really clean?
Might a nylon brush be better?

I'm not trying to be a smart-alec, just wondering...

ultramag44

[okie2]

For this same reason I don't use brass brushes any more nylon for me now.

[AVanGorder]

Adrian said:
KG1 - Saturate a patch and run it down the barrel, do it three times so the barrel is nice and coated. Wait about two minutes and scrub the barrel with a bronze brush which also has the KG1 on it. I typically stroke 15 times then run three dry patches down the barrel. You will feel the barrel is much smoother after doing this. Adrian

Adrian,

Bronze is a mix of copper & brass (the proportions escape me @ the moment). Doesn't the KG1 work on the bronze brush? Would disolving bronze brush material also show up on the patches? How do you know the barrel's really clean?
Might a nylon brush be better?

I'm not trying to be a smart-alec, just wondering...

ultramag44


KG1 won't mess with the bronze brush. KG12 will totally tear it up. What I do, is spray the brush off with brake cleaner when I'm done brushing. Brake cleaner seems to really extend the life of the bronze brush.

Cleaning with KG1, the patches will come out black, which is good because carbon is black. Clean patches will tell you you've removed the carbon.

Adrian

[longpoker]

I guess over the years I have tried every solvent on the market maybe. Right now I am testing KG12 and KG2 also Bore Tech Cu+2 and Bore Tech Carbon remover. So far KG12 seems to work the fastest as far as getting copper out of the barrel. Bore Tech CU +2 attacks the jags and brushes as well ,Brakleen must be used to clean the brush and jags quickly the same for KG12.
After using KG12 I test the barrel with CU+2 and if any copper is in the barrel it will show up real fast. Then I will run another patch with KG12 20 times up and back slowly. That will take care of the copper.

[cfvickers]

Another vote for KG1 carbon remover. I have tried them all and it is the best thing there is for carbon bar none. follow it with KG12 Big bore cleaner if you have copper fouling and it will be just about as clean as you can make it. If you still have accuracy problems, finish up with KG2 Bore Restore, it will remove any corrosion you may have and polish the bore a bit. And with these three products you can have your bore about as close to perfect as you can make it in 20 minutes or less. I run three patches through them with the carbon remover while scrubbing back and forth then 3-5 dry patches by 5 your patches will be coming out clean. I soak the copper remover patches a little more so it takes a couple more dry patches, the color won't be the same as with other copper removers, but don't panic, just go with it. otherwise do it the same as with the carbon remover. With the bore restore, it is more of a paste type substance. so you may want to rub it into the patch, otherwise same as before. the first couple bore restore patches and following dry patches will be black when you remove them, again, don't panic, this is normal. It polishes out everything in the crevices that your cleaners will not. If I am putting the gun up I soak a patch in remoil or similar gun oil to prevent corrosion,otherwise I just shoot it.

I have seen several guns tighten up a lot using this method, the most notable is my Model 100 winchester .308 my grandfather left me, I cleaned it last monday, it was shooting 4 inch groups at best, afterwards with the same ammo it was shooting way under half inch groups. A rarity for any auto loading rifle in my experience, and I was down right shocked.