Stuck Bolt Assembly Screw

[MTHunt]

I have taken apart a few that are tough as all get out.. Soak for awhile in some penetrating oil, then give it ago.. I have never had to or tried the put it on the floor and bounce on it, always gotten them loose by hand... I have never figured out why they are so stinking tight but man they are...

[Zero333]

Try this... I'll let the pics do the talking...

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr8/Zero333/_3332942_zpsrvxttnco.jpg

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr8/Zero333/_3332944_zps2qalbjqp.jpg

http://i464.photobucket.com/albums/rr8/Zero333/_3332946_zpscnlllzd9.jpg


Instead of a hammer, I would first try a 2 foot long 2x4 because the crack it emits when striking the bolt will generate a vibration that might loosen the bolt. Then move onto a hammer.

Good luck.

[rosewood]

You know, if it is that difficult, I might just try shooting carb cleaner in the holes on the bolt then blow out with compressed air and oil. Might not be worth the effort if you end up breaking something just to get it apart. Do you really need to get it apart? I would have tried my Dewalt 1/4" impact driver and if that didn't do it, might just leave it alone.

Rosewood

[RC20]

Ok, you can't give up, we are vested in this. :o

I am would say a block of wood on top if you use a steel hammer. Also just an L leg hex but that's the basic idea.

Compo cast hammer (and everyone should have one so its your chance to get one) just the cloth would do.

Me I hate having something I can't get into and clean, ok when new, over time it does need it.

[Wildcat]

:victorious: SUCCESS!!! :victorious: :biggrin-new: :biggrin-new:
I apologize for the long pause in this thread. It took some time on my end to be able to implement most of your suggestions. I took Bsekf's and MTHunt's advice and let the end of the BAS sit in some penetrating oil for a couple of days. Tried my previously detailed routine and had no luck getting it free. Then I got ahold of an acquaintance with a machine shop and went to his place. We place the bolt vertically in a heavy duty vise had mounted to a cast iron shop table. Then went at it with an impact driver. Initially, no luck. Then we got out the 300 degree temp crayon and a propane torch. I began heating it up to temp and when we got close to 300 degrees we started in on it again with the impact driver. It took 8 minutes of using the impact driver combined with reheating it and working on it with a 1/4 socket and cheater bar to finally break it free. :biggrin-new: We even managed to move the shop table about 4-5 feet across the shop floor from its original position. That SOB was on tight! There was no way I was ever going to get that BAS off using the tools I have at home. I'm not sure what was used at the Savage factory when this particular bolt was assembled or who installed it, but I'll be happy to never encounter another one like this.

Surprisingly, the threads of the BAS were in perfect shape. There was no evidence of damage or loc-tite or some other adhesive as I've seen on other bolt assembly screws when I've disassembled bolts. There was some slight rounding and damage to the socket head of the BAS, but I can contact savage for a replacement so it's not an issue.

Thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. I very much appreciate all of your time in writing replies and your advice. Without it, I'm sure I would not have gotten this beastly BAS free. All in all, this was a good learning opportunity and I really can't complain as I picked this rifle up for a song at a local pawn shop. Thanks again to all of you for your advice. This forum/board has a great bunch of members who are incredibly knowledgeable and willing to share that knowledge! While I have not posted very frequently, every time I have members have always helped me out. I hope I can pay some of what I've learned here forward to others.

Wildcat

[RC20]

Congratulations!!!!!.

I will leave it to the longer time members to be definite, but that strikes me as the mother of all bolt screw problems.

[RustyShackle]

That's great, glad to hear you got it apart! Incredible that someone managed to tighten it that much to begin with.

[toddcdozer]

Those fine threads, large shank and varnish produced by many cleaning solutions can make a BAS hard to remove. This case is WAY beyond anything I have experienced. Floor jumping and all that and hammer striking are no substitute for an IMPACT gun. On any fastener the BEST removal tool is an impact. If you don't own one......you should. Even the battery powered units will make a tough job easy. Long levers and heat are no substitute for IMPACT. Don't beat your head against a wall or your hands or feet against a bolt. Any mechanic shop on the planet has multiple impact units and will probably remove any bolt or nut out there for FREE if you are nice or a 6 pack if not. When you don't have the proper tool for the job and millions of other people do.....get some help.

[Zero333]

Good to hear !

Anytime you succeed in a very hard task you learn and gather more experience for the rest of your life !

Hardest bolt I've ever removed was on a crank pully / harmonic ballancer on a 3.0L Chrysler minivan. Heated the bolt with a torch for more than 5 minutes. Then it took 2 of us and a 6 foot breaker bar.

Changing the broken timing belt was the easy part compared to that crank bolt.

[Robinhood]

I have found that a 3/4 impact removes most everything I need to work on.

[RC20]

The key to the impact working though is it has to be totally secured. If there is any give it absorbs the pulse and will not work.

Axles and engine even on the crank have enough inertia resistance that it works.

Getting a bolt completely secured/locked in place not so easy!