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Nor Cal Mikie
12-19-2016, 10:20 AM
You can "torque it" all you want. All you'll end up doing is rounding off the slots. It's the "SHOCK" of steel on steel that will eventually brake it loose. Don't give up yet. A good size ball peen hammer will work just fine. SMACK IT!! If the barrel moves in the vice, SMACK it again!! The more you SMACK it, the sooner the nut will get the message to BRAKE LOOSE!! A little heat might also help. Soak it, heat it then smack it!!

Fotheringill
12-19-2016, 11:17 AM
We can get rid of the rust with Kroil. Bronze or nylon brush first, get it good and wet and leave it over night. Pitting inside is still going to be there one way or another, though.

big honkin jeep
12-20-2016, 12:50 PM
When trying to remove a Savage barrel, always, always, always make sure you removed the front scope base and screws. (and that there is no filler screw in the hole)
:redface-new: Yep that's a lesson learned the hard way. LOL
And yes not only will it be very difficult to remove, it will completely booger the threads in both the action, and the barrel if forced and one of these screws is bottomed out.

flangster
12-20-2016, 01:16 PM
Thanks. Great tip!

greyghost
12-20-2016, 07:44 PM
What ever you do don't use naval jelly, My son called me up and asked what will remove rust, I told him naval jelly, He didn't say he was working on a rifle, It removed it all right, He had to have the barrel re-blued it took all the finish off real quick, Got rid of the rust!!!!

Robinhood
12-20-2016, 09:14 PM
Picked up an XP 100 at a gun show. Just happened to have a new box of ammo with me. When I inspected it (just a quick look) I noticed rust in the barrel in a few spots. Stopped on the trip home and fired a "few rounds". No more rust.

Yep! that Iron Oxide riding down the barrel imbedded in a piece of copper and lead at 2500 FPS will clean that rascal out