Ready to reload. Please help.

[Hemi45]

I'm ready to start reloading. My jump off round is going to be .308 for my bolt action. How do I determine which powder and to a lesser extent primers and projectiles to start with?

I still don't have the press, dies, etc but with the election around the corner and the potential for panic buying I thought it best to get cartridge components first.

[LoneWolf]

Powder IMR 4064, Varget, Alliant Power Pro M2000 Lots of data on the 308. Primers I've used CCI 200's for everything so far and have no complaints. Bullets 175 SMK or any of the other quality match bullets. If hunting it would depend on what you're hunting for. 308 is pretty forgiving. Around 40-42grs of 4064 behind a 175SMK usually brings on good results. You can get a lot more technical, but best to either get a manual or find someone that can teach your what's going on. I started with 308 and a Lee 50th anniversary kit and have upgraded items over the last 2 years when I was ready for something a little better.

[darkker]

I'm ready to start reloading. My jump off round is going to be .308 for my bolt action. How do I determine which powder and to a lesser extent primers and projectiles to start with?
From a load manual....??? What are you trying to do? Mouse hunting, paper at 100??? The better question is what powders DON'T work with the 308, because there aren't many. I mostly use 748 and CFE. Varget is fine with 140-165gr bullets, since that is what it was designed for in terms of stability. Primers in the 308 don't matter much, they all work about the same IME. You NEED a chronograph as well. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. The only way to know where you are in terms of pressure is that way.... Or buy a Pressure Trace, but you get the idea. Staring at the primers or brass isn't much different that finding Jesus in your toast.

[LoneWolf]

You don't have to have a chrono right off the bat. I understand where darker is coming from, but just keep it simple. I didn't start pushing things till I felt comfortable with what I was doing.


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[rjtfroggy]

As far as a chrono goes I went 30 tears with out one and now only use when working up new loads.
Powder don't over look IMR 4895 long time standard and still a favorite for 308's, works for any bullet you choose, Primer any LR primer will work no need for a magnum.
Buy every thing in bulk you will save $$$ in long run.

[Robinhood]

I have had great luck with R15 and 4064. I'm in the heavier bullet camp for longer range and accuracy. I also subscribe to the "don't go overboard" philosophy with regards to spending money on reloading. It can get expensive. Take your time read manuals, watch you tube and hang out on websites that are all about accuracy. weather hunting or target shooting, being an educated reloader enhances your experience.

[m12lrs]

First you need to decide what you are going to do.

Hunting?

What range are you comfortable with. I would say on game less than 400 yrds

Target Shooting inside of 600 yrd's

Long range shooting?

Then you have to pick a bullet to match.

Hunting bullets are different than target bullets

Inside 600 yrds the 168gr works great. Longer range heavier bullets

Then you pick your powder. Many work well with the. 308. I like varget

[Appleseed]

I'm guilty of adding powder/brass/bullets this season too. If there is someone you know that loads, get some hands on help, my neighbor was an ordinance retiree that has a basement full of stuff and started me out the "old fashioned way."

Get a 100 or so new brass, large rifle primers (1000pc is less than $40 here), choose a readily available bullet (I like 150-165gr), 4064 powder is a good one. Get some case lube and several shallow cartridge trays.

A RCBS single stage is fine, Lee dies are easy to adjust a two piece set, and a beam scale with funnel is about $60. Get a few hand tools to prep and clean the cases; primer pocket cleaner, champher neck tool, and a Lee powder dispenser, and you can be out for $300+. A good recent loading book will have lots of instructions and measures, don't forget a dial caliper, available at big box stores.

May be a slow process the first 100, but once you set up, it will fall in place.

I remember a tech at Hornady helping me with a die repair and he asked me my case prep method. When I told him the steps he said, "where did you learn that, in the Army, that's the old fashioned way."

Someone here will chime in with a suggestion of a "package" that has all the tools to start. Got mine from a friend that quit hunting, had everything needed to SAFELY learn. I think RCBS had a good started kit? Don't go overboard is great advise!

You are located way down "south." If there is a range to shoot, there should be someone there to help.

[Hemi45]

Thanks folks. Right now I'm a paper puncher and my range maxes at 100 yards. When we move next year the ranges allow for longer shooting and I may well take up hog hunting. I'm a true rookie regarding reloading and the info here has been helpful. Thank you kindly.

[Appleseed]

Just checked, you can buy the RCBS supreme kit Midway or Brownells for right at $300. Add the caliphers, Lee dies, powder, bullets, primers and brass and you are good to go. Ask around at your range, there should be someone to help. It's fun, follow instructions and you'll be safe.

[m12lrs]

I'm ready to start reloading. My jump off round is going to be .308 for my bolt action. How do I determine which powder and to a lesser extent primers and projectiles to start with?

I still don't have the press, dies, etc but with the election around the corner and the potential for panic buying I thought it best to get cartridge components first.

I sure do hope you are wrong about the hoarders. they should be well stocked after 8 years of Obama.

anyway I assume you don't have an unlimited budget and want get started reloading.

here is a list of a starter kit that will last you a lifetime. You won't have to upgrade and buy a bunch more stuff over the years. this will get you started and let you find out if you are going to stick with it. You should be able to sell it and recoup you money pretty easily if you find reloading is not for you.

I recommend you take your time and search for good deals on ebay for the following list. Or you can buy new from any number of online dealers. Midway or Brownells are my favorites

First thing you need to purchase is a good reloading manual. All the bullet manufactures publish them.

Rockchucker press. $60 on ebay
RCBS 505 or 10-10 beam scale $50
Case trimmer $60 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Forster-Case-Trimmer-for-Reloading-/142157193116
Tumbler $50
RCBS hand primer $30
RCBS 6" stainless dial calipers $40
hand chamfer deburring tool $10
hand primer pocket cleaner $10
reloading block and powder funnel $20

Dies
Lee Universal Decapping Die $20
Forster Benchrest die set $80

Large rifle primers I like CCI either 200's or the BR-2 you will get lots of opinions here
Powder of your choice. Most of the reloading manuals give recommendations. Varget and RL15 with the 168's. I don't shoot the heavier bullets so can't advise.
Bullet of your choice. Hard to beat the 168 gr Sierra Match King for less than 600 yards.
As for brass. you can start out with your fired factory brass. you have been saving it haven't you? you can buy the lapua brass down the road.

I am sure I forgot something but this would be a start

[Mozella]

One thing you'll appreciate when you're first starting out is a certain comfort level. You don't want to blow your face off on your first hand loaded round. To me, that means starting out by sticking to components and loads which are well documented. For example, IMR and Hodgdon make a huge variety of powders and they have a handy on-line data calculator to help you select a good and safe powder/bullet combination. Sierra makes good bullets at a reasonable price and there is plenty of information on Sierra bullets. The same can be said for Hornaday, and they publish a nice reloading manual. Some would argue that Berger sets the standard for precision competition level bullets and they have a very good manual too. However, Berger bullets cost a bit more.

If it were me, I'd do a little research to find a suitable bullet weight for your barrel twist. Then shop for either Hornady or Sierra bullets and buy small quantities of suitable bullets plus some bullets which are a bit heavier and a bit lighter. Then, select a well documented powder by either IMR or Hodgdon and start with that, especially if you can buy one pound jugs at your local outlet. Most any primer and most any brass will be fine to start with. You will then have components which you can assemble with a suitable powder charge weight and proceed with confidence because you will be using a recipe which is tested and published by a major company.

Later on, especially if the accuracy bug bites, you can experiment with other brands and combinations after you have some experience under your belt. But to begin with, stick with a combination of components and charge weights which are well documented in published manuals.

Everyone has that moment of doubt and fear when they squeeze the trigger on their first hand load. Be sure your first cartridge is NOT made by following the advice posted by a poser living in his Mom's basement, especially if he says, "Just fill it up with Varget, seat the heaviest bullet you can find, and let 'er rip"

[Hemi45]

The hits just keep on coming - thank you all, very much! Thus far the ammo (from which I'm saving the brass) is all premium; Federal, Hornady, Black Hills, etc so I believe I can reload all that brass with confidence. Sierra and Hornady are the bullets I will most likely buy. I'm familiar with and trust them. Other calibers I may reload for down the road would be .223, .38 and .45ACP.

[LongRange]

be careful loading different brands of brass as the internal capacities can and do vary quite a bit and most likely will not shoot the same.

[m12lrs]

be careful loading different brands of brass as the internal capacities can and do vary quite a bit and most likely will not shoot the same.

Yeah

Keep them sorted

[yobuck]

Id go to a range, hang out and make a friend who reloads. Better yet make a couple friends, and get invited to a loading session.
Then start looking on ebay for some good stuff sold very reasonably.

[darkker]

Alright, now we have some info!
First, ignore a $300 RCBS kit. Spend $100 on the Lee Anniversary kit as it has absolutely everything needed: press, dies, scale, measure, trimmer.

Now to the bullets. For 100 yards, BC means only very slightly more than nothing. Use flat base bullets, they will be much much more accurate. Something lighter is perfectly fine, 130gr range perhaps; less recoil that way and keeps flight times minimal.

So here is a few dirty little things about brass.

All brass is different, and there is more than one way to build it. So simply looking at weight as an indication of capacity, not much better than eyeballing. Assuming you are going to neck size for this rifle only, once fired, the whole arguing over capacity essentially goes away. There simply isn't enough difference to mean a hill of beans at that point. On another board I was discussing this with a retired Picatinny gent, talking about the "dangerous match brass". The deal is, there are a few years where some military match brass was "supposedly" built with less capacity. Anyway over been shooting and loading that brass interchangibly for a decade now, AND used some of it when we were doing the Pressure Trace work.
CAN there be a difference? Of course there can! Is it a difference that should be at the top of the list? No, a chrono is WAY above that. Understanding how variable powder burning rates between lots, and pressures work is far more so.
Next tidbit is Federal brass. Specifically from the Gold Medal Match, can be very soft down in the head. So one of the ways they get such good accuracy, is by having very soft brass to quickly seal to the chamber shape. If the brass was softened to far down you will get hear separations at very low pressure, after a very few reloads. Yet another reason why you don't look for "signs" in an unknown brass case. Unless you are shooting a paper mache’ rifle, it's not the end of the world, but disconcerting.
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j84/Darkker13/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160124_145606_zpsy2cf27a8.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j84/Darkker13/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160124_143027_zpsdl2tgxjv.jpg


NONE of those are anywhere near a SAAMI high pressure load, PT verified, but the brass said adios pantalones!!

[LongRange]

darkker for you to say capacity dont matter sounds funny coming from you because your ALWAYS preaching OVER PRESSURE!!

ive SEEN brass that varied 13 grains internally in the same bag once...ive seen brass from the same lot vary 3 to 6 grains internally several times so it does matter.

i respect your opinions on powders,burn rates,pressures and all..BUT..you preach them like if someone goes a .01g over they are going to blow their selves up when in reality unless you run pistol powder in a rifle cartridge its pretty hard to blow up an action especially in modern day fire arms.

[Appleseed]

Keep it simple, follow instructions, don't worry. The Hornady load manual has a good chapter on beginning loading. Been some good advise here, follow manual instructions, clean and measure carefully, pay attention while working. The best...an experienced loader to show you the ropes.

Always, always give the cases time to dry (case lube) before sizing, some lubes dry quicker and cleaner.

I felt comfortable after learning to set the dies, why I suggested the Lee two piece, easy to use and reasonably priced. I use other Lee products, their powder measure is a good one. I just like the RCBS press and scale better than Lee, but Lee makes good stuff.

$250 a good deal on ebay includes shipping http://www.ebay.com/bhp/rcbs-reloading-kit

[Hemi45]

Great info - thank you to all!