New project

[banjoguy]

I picked this up at the local shop this morning. Decent enough deal, but I have some work to do.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm160/30CalTy/IMG_0038_zpsrdvwxpxq.jpg

Weaver K10-1 and a 26" aftermarket varmint profile barrel marked "257 Rem Imp" and a name. Any ideas who this is?
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm160/30CalTy/IMG_0036_zpsa7tes6q4.jpg

Took it to the range on the way home with a box of Hornadys. It was cold and raining sideways; wasn't very impressed with my 2" 5-shot group. One failed to fire and extraction was funny (they came halfway out and stopped--uh oh). But I was gratified to see that 40degree shoulder come out of the chamber; I had bought it at the risk that it was the 28degree flavor which is impossible to find dies for and got a decent discount on that argument.

I think I figured out the fail to fire and extraction problem; two chips were broken off of the underside of the extractor and were jammed up under the claw. The ball was MIA (though I found it in the mag well later). I think the chips caused the ctg to go farther into the chamber than you'd normally get feeding Roberts into AI--the shoulder of that one round is noticeably crunched.

There was a modest amount of pitting under the wood, but no biggie. The bedding, IMO, is a trainwreck. Souring Acra-glass applied in some obsolete manner--full barrel channel bedding, a dab between the mag well and the trigger, and some at the tang. Virtually zero contact anywhere at the receiver ring.
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm160/30CalTy/IMG_0040_zpsqttodrmj.jpg
My plan is to bed the lug area and the area between the trigger and magazine. There's not really anything to do between them on this stock, so I'm leaving the area between as-is.


So I've got this going on on the other side. I'm thinking of doing pillars. The front one seems easy; bed it and file te pillar flush with the wood. Not sure about the back one since I won't be able to get at it with a file, and I'm not confident that I can get it to the correct length, compress epoxy, and have everything work out right. Thoughts?
http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm160/30CalTy/IMG_0039_zpslozzghha.jpg
I'm half tempted just to bed the top and leave the pillars out of the equation.

The wood has some honest wear; a couple dents, some chipped varnish, etc. I may strip it, lift dents, sand lightly, and refinish with oil before I get into bedding. But I'm not sure if I can wait that long. I guess going in plan is to bed the top and see if it shoots. If that works out, maybe then do the stock up pretty, excavate some bedding, do the pillars, and skim.


Finally, any ideas on how to get out the half acre of Acra-glass that's in the barrel channel?

[banjoguy]

I carved/chipped the old bedding out last night. That took a good four hours, but I like working with my hands and sharp things. The key is to work out the stuff in the bottom, and then when that's done, do the top edges; that way you can pry using the bedding edge as a fulcrum instead of walnut, which would leave divots all the way down the length.

This morning I stripped the old varnish off with Formby's Furniture Refinisher and a 1x steel wool pad.


Had an idea late this afternoon. We have a Shark floor steamer. It's got a water reservoir and a heating element. At the bottom is a diffuser that you stretch a washable terrycloth pad over. Plug it in and it does a great job on the floors. But will it work on a gunstock? YES!!! It's a little awkward in the grip area, but dang, it did a great job of lifting dents and taking off the residue left behind by the Refinisher!


http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm160/30CalTy/IMG_0046%201_zpsqixxvp4t.jpg


I am rewarded with the smell of blessed walnut!

I'm not 100% pleased with the checkered areas, but I'm afraid to work much more on them. The Furniture Refinisher has done all it can, and the steam is starting to lift up the checkering. You gotta know when to hold 'em; know when to fold 'em....

Scotch MagicBright pad did a good job of freshening up the buttpad and whiteline spacer.