pillar bedding

[BillPa]

So why, may i ask, do you use them?


I don't, but quite a few guys do. I just happen to have the materials and tools to make them. If I didn't I'd probably go the lamp rod or something similar myself.

[flatshooter]

Seems that's all military rifles have in them, steel tubing.

If the rifle doesn't improve with this Boyd Laminate.. I'll use the savage pillars.

[Charleslv]

No lathe here is the down and dirt how I do it.
1. Line the stock up on the drill press and use an aircraft counterbore
9/16 from brownell http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=8011/Product/AIRCRAFT_COUNTERBORE
If I am using the Adjustable pillars. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=982/Product/ADJUSTABLE_PILLAR_BEDDING_SLEEVES
5/8 counter bore if factory or other brand. I like the whole abigger then the pillar so I can adjust depending on the action and make corrections
2. If using adjustable I make sure that it sticks out 1/16 of in inch so I can file it flush to the stock if using other types I Make sure they are recessed a good 1/4" then bed it in. This done while bedding the whole action and infact the pillars are screwed to the action using tape on the action screws to make sure they are not touching the pillar after the tape is removed.
3. Then I get a piece of exotic hard wood, ebony rosewood, walnut lots of handgun grip blanks out there on ebay.
4. I place in a vise on the drill press and drill a 1/4 inch whole then change the bit and use either 9/16 or 5/8 plug cutter not moving the piece of wood I uses these. http://www.hermanscentral.com/product/916-standard-type-4-flute-plug-cutter-w-38-shank-61332.cfm?sid=FRoogle
5. I place them with some glass bed material let dry and sand them to shape of the stock
Now the back i Usually use a standard alluminum pillar but will notch or I by the factory ones and fit them.


A trick I use when setting up the stock for the counter bores is place them on vise and line it up by using a drill bit to line up the wholes before I run the counter bore. I use a small bit then what is drilled on the stock.

Like I said I will do an article next stock I do.

[flatshooter]

Thanks Charles.... I see the counter bore bit, and how brownells states that it elimates wondering. That seems that was my problem. I'm glad you pointed that out and gave me a solution.... ;D

So that aircraft counter bore bit is two part....? So you can have a shank and change tips?

[BillPa]

So that aircraft counter bore bit is two part....? So you can have a shank and change tips?


Yep....this is a 1/2" for example. Size or make the pilots to closely fit the existing holes in the stock. They're a little less expensive from MSC and other places than Brownells, especially if you get the imported ones. Make sure you get the long ones (4.5") for room in the inletting, chuck clearance and so you can see what your doing.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMCTLG=00&PMAKA=71011324&partnerURL=http://catalogs.shoplocal.com/mscdirect/index.aspxopagenamhttp://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php?action=post;quote=246975;topic=34770.15; num_replies=23;sesc=74076920107fa5e4fe92abf99f54b9 a5e=shopmainPcircularid=15382Pstoreid=1040626Ppage number=257Pmode=

Bill

[durango]

When I need to drill or drill out a hole, my bits of choice are Forstners. They're used alot in furniture and cabinetry. If you can jig up your workpiece really solid-no hand held stuff, you can drill some really clean holes with them and if you use a little finesse, you can actually drill an existing hole oversize and create a new (different) center for the hole. Another drill that is handy to have is the brad point-good for a new hole but a little shaky to enlarge or recut an existing hole. They're longer than a forstner, so I will use the forstner as far as I can and then switch to a brad point for the extra depth, following the hole created by the first cut. One such project for this operation is drilling for the rear screw on a Striker (through the handle).

The forstners are available at woodworking store such as Woodsmith or Woodcraft. I haven't priced them lately, but they used to be around $65.00 for a set of sixteen (1/4" to 2" plus) in a nice wooden case. I bought mine at (gasp!) Harbor Freight for about half the price in a nice wooden case with a different label-I still can't see any difference. Brad points are available at most harware stores for not much more than regular bits.

One other little plug for HF, I've been seeing 20% off coupons in several mags including some of the gun rags and I haven't looked, but it may be on their website. I have a fairly well equipped wood shop and while I won't trust a major power tool from HF, I buy specialty or one time use tools with a fair rate of success (don't buy their clamps to hold that peice of wood if you want it to look like a gunstock!).

This is a really fun hobby-Steve

[EGW1]

I see a lot of experience in this post.

Let us know what you think about our new billet aluminum trigger guard. For bedding I would think it superior to plastic.

Also were introducing a Recoil lug with a 1 1/16 as well as a 1 1/8 bore for the Larger Savage barrels.

Is there a commercially available pillers that you guys like for the Savage is is there a "need" for a set to be made?

Any Input would be appreciated!
geo

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs130.ash2/39823_140123706028628_132511026789896_188750_73861 80_n.jpg

[okie2]

how much are the trigger guards and where do you order them from.

[sharpshooter]

I use a "reverse piloted" cutter. The pilot studs are screwed in the action and the cutter follows the stud. This way the original hole can be of a little and the cutter will cut the hole exactly where it needs to be.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/sharp-shooter/pillarpilot.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/sharp-shooter/pillarcutter.jpg

[flatshooter]

Wow, that is the best FOOL proof way I've seen yet! :o Where you get this bugger from?


http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/catalog/i145.html

You think these are a good deal?