How do you adjust out parallax error?

[Texas10]

I am using a Vortex Viper HS 6-24X50 on my BVSS in 223 and having trouble adjusting focus and eyepiece focus to eliminate parallax error.

To start with, I am shooting at 200 yds. I set the eyepiece focus per instructions, point at the sky and adjust until cross hairs are clear, then leave it alone. But it's a fast focus 4x eyepiece, so what's with that? Use it to increase magnification, or leave it alone?

Then I set the side focus on 200. Everything is clear, except if I move my eye slightly, the reticle moves relative to the target (parallax error). So I continue turning the side focus to get the parallax error out, but then the reticle is out of focus. BTW; I'm careful not to move the gun when moving my head around for this check.

I adjust the eyepiece so the reticle is in focus, and now the reticle is moving on the target again.

It takes me a good 10 minutes to find the right combination, but always end up with a fuzzy reticle. Groups are smaller, but I must be doing something wrong. It shouldn't be that hard to get the scope set up right, and IMHOP cross hairs should always be in sharp focus.

I've tried this with, and without my glasses on.

Any suggestions?

[Scott Evans]

Are your lenses current? Astigmatism?

[rjtfroggy]

Don't go by the numbers marked on the scope. Go by how clear the target is.
Marked numbers are never right.

[Robinhood]

Point the scope towards a light background like the sky. Using the eyepiece adjustment focus the reticle to its sharpest point. If a mil-dot look at the dots and make sure they are even on both sides of the line. You may never touch that adjustment again except for fine tuning. Now go to your target and using the left side Parallax/Side Focus knob dial it in until everything is focused.

Without touching the rifle ,table or influencing the scope in any way move your head back and forth while looking in the scope. If the cross hairs move on the target you need to continue to adjust the parallax with small adjustments.

The goal is to get the cross hairs to stay in one spot as you re-position your head. Once you have achieved that and you are slightly out of focus you can try to adjust the eyepiece. This should me only a small amount. you do not want the reticle out of focus.

If the scope is good then the only thing you will ever need to adjust from here on out will be the side knob.

Good luck.

[Steelhead]

Don't go by the numbers marked on the scope. Go by how clear the target is.
Marked numbers are never right.
I don't use the numbers nor focus.
I shift my sight picture slightly and adjust till the reticle stays solidly on the target with no wondering.

[wbm]

What Robinhood said. Do it....it works.

[yobuck]

I don't use the numbers nor focus.
I shift my sight picture slightly and adjust till the reticle stays solidly on the target with no wondering.

And that's how you are supposed to adjust for paralex , focus is a different issue.
The side adjustment has changed the way many people adjust scopes.
Its about paralex removal, not perfect focus, but that's not what many do with that knob.
If you want perfect focus, then learn to shoot with a little paralex.

[FiveInADime]

And that's how you are supposed to adjust for paralex , focus is a different issue.
The side adjustment has changed the way many people adjust scopes.
Its about paralex removal, not perfect focus, but that's not what many do with that knob.
If you want perfect focus, then learn to shoot with a little paralex.
In my experience, and I have 20/10 vision in both eyes, the lenses are focused if you have the reticle focused on the same plane as the target...

[FiveInADime]

I am using a Vortex Viper HS 6-24X50 on my BVSS in 223 and having trouble adjusting focus and eyepiece focus to eliminate parallax error.

To start with, I am shooting at 200 yds. I set the eyepiece focus per instructions, point at the sky and adjust until cross hairs are clear, then leave it alone. But it's a fast focus 4x eyepiece, so what's with that? Use it to increase magnification, or leave it alone?

Then I set the side focus on 200. Everything is clear, except if I move my eye slightly, the reticle moves relative to the target (parallax error). So I continue turning the side focus to get the parallax error out, but then the reticle is out of focus. BTW; I'm careful not to move the gun when moving my head around for this check.

I adjust the eyepiece so the reticle is in focus, and now the reticle is moving on the target again.

It takes me a good 10 minutes to find the right combination, but always end up with a fuzzy reticle. Groups are smaller, but I must be doing something wrong. It shouldn't be that hard to get the scope set up right, and IMHOP cross hairs should always be in sharp focus.

I've tried this with, and without my glasses on.

Any suggestions?
You focus the eyepiece ONE TIME unless it gets moved somehow. Read the instructions in the scope manual.

Here's a quick run-down, though:

Focus the eye-piece on a well lit non-descript background. Don't continuously stare through the scope as your eyes will adjust. Trust your first glances to focus the eyepiece.

The parallax focus is to focus the reticle on the same plane as the target. It is, indeed, a focus and you can trust the method of moving your head to make sure the reticle doesn't move around on the target to also focus the picture correctly.

[m12lrs]

Yep

Don't look at the numbers on the side parallax adjustment. That is not a focus knob no matter what they say.

Focus the eyepiece for the reticle and adjust the parallax knob until you can move your head and the crosshairs stay in one spot. For me if the target is a little out of focus I will adjust the eyepiece a little.

You will be surprised how much your groups tighten up once you master the parallax adjustment

[darkker]

Point the scope towards a light background like the sky. Using the eyepiece adjustment focus the reticle to its sharpest point. If a mil-dot look at the dots and make sure they are even on both sides of the line. You may never touch that adjustment again except for fine tuning. Now go to your target and using the left side Parallax/Side Focus knob dial it in until everything is focused.

Without touching the rifle ,table or influencing the scope in any way move your head back and forth while looking in the scope. If the cross hairs move on the target you need to continue to adjust the parallax with small adjustments.

The goal is to get the cross hairs to stay in one spot as you re-position your head. Once you have achieved that and you are slightly out of focus you can try to adjust the eyepiece. This should me only a small amount. you do not want the reticle out of focus.

If the scope is good then the only thing you will ever need to adjust from here on out will be the side knob.

Good luck.


What Robinhood said. Do it....it works.


Yep+1

[Mozella]

You can fix this problem. Unfortunately, the tool you need is your wallet. Sad to say the moderately priced scopes with parallax adjustments sometimes have a setting where sharp focus and minimum parallax aren't quite the same. In other words, you can choose one or the other, but not both at the same time. Generally speaking, I dial out the parallax and just live with the blur.

My scopes costing $1500 or more tend to be sharp when parallax is at a minimum. The less expensive ones......... not so much.

[Robinhood]

You can fix this problem. Unfortunately, the tool you need is your wallet. Sad to say the moderately priced scopes with parallax adjustments sometimes have a setting where sharp focus and minimum parallax aren't quite the same. In other words, you can choose one or the other, but not both at the same time. Generally speaking, I dial out the parallax and just live with the blur.

My scopes costing $1500 or more tend to be sharp when parallax is at a minimum. The less expensive ones......... not so much.

I am a fan of Bushnell scopes because of durability. However what Mozella says applies to their less expensive models.

[Zero333]

Make sure the diopter is adjusted to your eyes.

Parallax free is not only when the image is clear, but more importantly when the reticle and and target are on the same focal plane. Meaning the reticle doesn't move a hair when crosshair is on target and you move your head up/down left/right (make sure you're cheek is not touching the rifle when moving your head, and the rifle is steady all together).

The higher the magnification the more sensitive the parallax (narrower adjustment window).

[Rich Coyle]

Switch to something other than Vortex. They have a great warranty, but nothing else going for them.