Barrel Swap

[saskaguy]

I am going to rebarrel a 223 to 6br.....I have the new bolt head and baffle and was going to swap them out but had a question....should I reinstall the ejector/extractor or should I be leaving them off until I headspace the new barrel. I don't want to install them if I am just going to have to take them off again...thanks for the help.

[olddav]

Can you head space a new barrel with the exstractor in?
Some say yes some say no, I say head space your new barrel with the extractor installed.
In all fairness I have only swapped two barrels, both with the bolts fully assembled and both turned out fine.
Good luck.

[foxx]

You can headspace a Savage with the extractor and ejector installed. I do it all the time. No harm in removing them, though.

Be sure to set the headspace (or at least re check it) whenever you replace a bolt head or front baffle, as well.

[J.Baker]

The key is to make sure the extractor snaps over the rim of the case when setting the headspace. Personally I'd leave the extractor out until the headspace was set just to simplify things, but that's me.

[Mozella]

If it's out, leave it out until you're done with setting the head space.

[Nor Cal Mikie]

I never bother to remove either the extractor OR the firing pin. The extractor snaps over the end of the case and the firing pin is below the surface of the bolt head so it's a non issue.
Only replaced maybe 10 or 12 (I've lost count) barrels so I'am no expert.

[GaCop]

I too leave the extractor/ejector in place when head spacing a new build. I've done it this way for at least a dozen builds w/o problems.

[FW Conch]

I have never removed either. And I switch barrels often.

[RC20]

I never bother to remove either the extractor OR the firing pin. The extractor snaps over the end of the case and the firing pin is below the surface of the bolt head so it's a non issue.
Only replaced maybe 10 or 12 (I've lost count) barrels so I'am no expert.

Like Nor Cal Mikie, I am no expert, I have moved them around maybe 4 or 5 times now. Did not remove firing pin or the extractor/ejector.

My take is whatever you are comfortable with. Some rifles like the Model of 1917 you can destroy a gauge if you don't take the firing pin out, but that is pretty unique to the Brits line of rifles (though made in US it was British design.


While its my own take, I have been shocked at how far out the headspace on the 1917s is, normal is to just about close on a field reject gauge. Phew. Those are hard to get.

[nuttybarrels]

depends on what level of accuracy your trying to find, I don't use an ejector single shot I bump the shoulders to a nice snug fit trying to keep the case aligned, if your trying for better accuracy take out the ejector and fp head space. shoot some rounds, then take out the ejector and fp then bump your shoulders until your bolt just closes with a tiny bit of resistence

[FW Conch]

Or just Fire Form and neck size.

[Texas10]

If you're a novice like me, removing all those springs will make it a lot easier to feel the bolt resistance upon closing on a go gage. It's also an opportunity to make sure everything is clean and lightly oiled, or to change the extractor ball bearing to a 9/64, polish the firing pin, add a bolt lift kit, polish the cocking ramp, adjust pin protrusion, etc.

BTW: Thinking of making that swap myself, what bolt head p/n did you buy for the 6mm changeover?