I want to buy a Savage Nut Wrench and Action Wrench

[rchouser]

I have a new 12FV and want to buy the equipment that I need to remove the barrel. I also want the equipment to remove the bolt head.

I see that midway has a nut wrench and an action wrench available. Is this the way to go? Is a wrench a wrench or is someone manufacturing something "the best". I am planning to set up cased switch barrel rifles (for me). I could see switching the barrel several times in the same day, so, I want something that will not damage the nut and action. I also want something that will hold up. All opinions and suggestions will be appreciated.

After 2 weeks with my 12 fv .223, I am already a Savage convert. This weekend I want to find a single shot short action rifle with an accu-trigger and any heavy barrel (I want the action and the stock). My objective is LR Hunting and LR Shooting. (short range is fun too).

Thanks rc

[hcpyro13]

I got my barrel nut wrench from Jim at Northland SS, the site sponsor. It's a great tool for little money. I got a wheeler action wrench from midway or brownells, I don't remember which. I got my barrel wrench in w/ my barrel order so it worked out I needed to place an order for my go-gage and various accessories anyway so I placed a significant order with one of the big dealers so everything would be in stock and I could get the stick up and running as fast as possible!

-Jake

[Blue Avenger]

there are some different nut wrenches around, I have the cheap wheeler and have no problems with it yet. it dose show some wear after being hammered on with an extreamley tight nut. there are some thicker wrenches made. Once the factory nut is loose it dose not take much to tighten or remove them again.

[dwm]

There are some nut wrenches that have a 1/2 in square hole in them where you can use a socket wrench in the hole.

If you use a good sized 1/2 socket wrench or breaker bar in the hole there is no need to hammer on anything.

You will have plenty of leverage to break the nut loose.

[Cycler]

The consensus seems to be get the barrel nut wrench from either Northland or Sharp Shooters Supply as the ones they sell are better than Midway's. As to an action wrench, apparently Midways is fine.

[rchouser]

Thanks to all who replied. I will do just that. thanks rc

[Armed in Utah]

Always helps to have an action wrench also......

Your FV may be very stubborn from the factory to remove nut....

The action wrench will also help during re assembly keeping action from turning..

Got mine from Sinclair........

Soak nut with Kroil night before....use hair dryer to heat nut....a 1/2" flex

cheater bar also helps....clean action threads well before re assembly...I use

anti seize on threads too....some don't........

[Slowpoke Slim]

After reading your post, and what you plan to use it for, you're probably going to want a different set of tools than most are using here. The action wrench and barrel nut wrench most are using (myself included), are to be used with the scope and front base (2 pc), or base off the receiver. The scope base will not allow the action wrench to go on. And the scope itself will be in the way on the barrel nut wrench. You will also have to take the barreled action out of the stock each time you want to swap barrels.

Now you could use the "normal" tools to get your first barrel off, then use something different to actually swap barrels once you're up and running with your switch barrel plan.

I assume the idea of taking the scope, base and ring off of your receiver each time you swap the barrel at the range is not what you're looking for?

Here's a couple of pictures to illustrate my point:

http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr268/slowpokeslim/P1020559.jpg

The action wrench (this is the one sold by Midway) on a receiver. The scope base must be removed.


http://i490.photobucket.com/albums/rr268/slowpokeslim/P1020558.jpg

I thought I had a pic of the barrel nut wrench on the barrel nut. I don't. But you can see the barreled action is out of the stock, and the wrench would wrap all the way around the nut. The wrench is pretty large, and has a wide swing too.

You should still get the action wrench and barrel nut wrench to get your factory barrel off the receiver. It will be on there pretty tight. Then, maybe someone makes a custom gunsmithing tool that you could use to swap barrels without taking the stock off, or the scope, base and ring?

[Blue Avenger]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/28v9lqb.jpg

modified wrenches to use AFTER FACTORY NUT IS BROKE LOOSE. the lower pis shows a rear entry action wrench. again these are only for use after the factory nut is broken loose.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/billpa1.jpg

[1972]

I've been looking around the internet and as far as I can see the best action wrench is the "Standard Barrel Nut Wrench" from Sharpshoot Tools. Looks like a good one.

They don't have (at least they don't show) an "action wrench". Where can I get the best one of those? Is that whole arrangment clamped around the action in the picture above the "wrench"? So it's more of a clamp than a "wrench"?

Sorry for the dumb question but I've never done this (barrel swap thing) before. :P

[Blue Avenger]

yes that clamp is a "action wrench" remington and savage share the same one.

Some have handles on them, some bolt to the bench

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/24ys4l2.jpg

[1972]

Thanks Blue,

Any recommendations on who makes/sells a good one? I see Midway mentioned as one source. Any others, or better ones?

[Slowpoke Slim]

My action wrench is the exact same one B.A. has in his pic. It's just that mine has the handle clamped in my bench vise in the picture. It makes it easier for me to keep everything "put" while I'm working with it.

That rear entry setup B.A. shows may be the ticket for an action wrench, once you're already up and using your switch barrel setup.

But I admit, I don't see how the modified barrel nut wrench will work without taking the stock off? Hey B.A., is that notch cut out of the wrench to clear the scope?

Or are you staking the nut onto the barrel? Hmmm, that may be an idea too. Then you don't have to worry about the barrel nut. I think you'd have to open the barrel channel up on the stock to give the barrel nut room to spin out with the barrel though?

[Blue Avenger]

yes, scope clearance.

Have heard of guys using a hammer and brass punch or chisel on the nut to avoid taking then out of the stock.

[BillPa]

That rear entry setup B.A. shows may be the ticket for an action wrench, once you're already up and using your switch barrel setup.

But I admit, I don't see how the modified barrel nut wrench will work without taking the stock off? Hey B.A., is that notch cut out of the wrench to clear the scope?




That's my setup for swapping barrels post removing the factory install. Yes, I remove the stocks, but leave the scope and mounts in place. On a sporter unless you have goobs of clearance between the barrel and barrel channel its impossible for the barrel to unscrew forward enough and the taper clear the channel. With a varmint or straight taper you would or may have enough room. For myself it just as easy to remove two screws and pull the action.

The open spanner(nut wrench) and rear entry wrench allows me to swap barrels anywhere I choose. At one range session I've swapped as many four different barrels on the shooting bench without removing the scope . On the average staying in the same class cartridge(25-06,270,06 and etc) I can swap a barrel and be ready to shoot in 10-15 minutes.
http://i42.tinypic.com/2hz7sli.jpg http://i40.tinypic.com/20iwen6.jpg

For rip'n off factory barrel this is my setup.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/24ys4l2.jpg

Its only used on factory installed barrels (37 to date), doesn't take up much room, easy and cheap to make, doesn't require the use of hammers,torches, pipe wrenches and its portable if need be.

Just my way.

Bill

[rchouser]

This thread is putting me on the right track. I don't mind pulling the stock, but, my 20 MOA ramp has got to stay. Looks like i will need a standard action wrench, sss or nss nut wrench, an open nut wrench (spanner?) and a rear entry action wrench. Where do we go to find the rear entry action wrench and open nut wrench? (by the way, GREAT PICTURES).

Thanks to all. rc

[flatshooter]

Don't need a action wrench, use a large combination wrench with some tape, and insert it in the action to hold back while you break loose the barrel nut. Also use a long 1/2" breaker bar on the nut wrench.

[BillPa]

This thread is putting me on the right track. I don't mind pulling the stock, but, my 20 MOA ramp has got to stay. Looks like i will need a standard action wrench, sss or nss nut wrench, an open nut wrench (spanner?) and a rear entry action wrench. Where do we go to find the rear entry action wrench and open nut wrench? (by the way, GREAT PICTURES).

Thanks to all. rc


Well, the open ended spanner is a DIY with a hacksaw, grinder and a file. Open the end just wide enough to clear the barrel then contour the edges for additional clearance. Be advised, if you use it on a factory installed barrel nut you'll end up with a sprung wrench.

You'll have to hunt around for the rear entry wrench. Davidson makes a version, a straight bar and uses a 3/4" socket or wrench. The one I have I made maybe twenty or so years ago during my Remington switch barrel days. Its a 1/2" drive extension with the square drive cut off and the ears tig'd in two milled slots. The drive end is an old 5/8" socket welded on for the 1/2" drive T handle.

There are also port entry wrench available, but I haven't ever used one, so I can't say one way or the other how well they would work. Keep in mind, if you use a rear entry wrench it must be long enough to engage the races in the receiver ring. Anywhere behind it you'll twist the action. ( Hint....it works well to un-twist them too!)

Another thought. If your only changing out one or a few barrels the time and cost either buying or making tools may not be cost effective. I imagine till you purchase both setups you'll have close 200 bills tied up in tools for both factory barrel removal and swaps. I already had everything when I began playing with Savages twelve years ago, so my investment was zero save the cost of the spanners.

Bill

[Blue Avenger]

Don't need a action wrench, use a large combination wrench with some tape, and insert it in the action to hold back while you break loose the barrel nut. Also use a long 1/2" breaker bar on the nut wrench.


in the action???? like through the bolt slot????????? If that is what you mean, you warp & bend most actions before the nut comes loose.