Bedding with jb weld into factory stock?

[zr600]

Ok I tried using jb weld for bedding my rifle and used kiwi shoe polish and playdoe for release. Now I let it dry over nite which was only 7 hours. When I took the action off some of the jb weld peeled off and the recoil lug pulled out of the stock. So I was easily able to peel all the bedding off with a screw driver as a scraper it didn't just fall off but it did come off if I tried. What caused it to peel? What should I use to glue the recoil lug back in with? Also should there be bedding I front of the recoil lug were the barrel but goes? Any help would be great.

[jpdown]

From my experience, 7 hours is too short a time for epoxy bedding materials. A minimum of 12 hours and preferably 24 hour is needed to avoid the problem you describe. I've had the same problem with JB Weld staying soft for longer than other epoxy products. I prefer Devcon Plastic Steel Epoxy from the local hardware store for this reason. At this point, I would remove the bedding material and clean the surface with acetone. I bed at least 1/4" in front of the recoil lug. I wrap the barrel nut with 3 layers of tape to float the barrel nut and apply kiwi sp. With the current Savage factory synthetic stocks I now bed in front of the recoil lug and under the barrel nut out to the tip of the barrel nut filling the first stock well to eliminate/reduce flex in this critical area. I assume you have an Axis recoil lug? Coat the recoil lug with kiwi and bed it front and back in the stock. You want to be able to remove the recoil lug in the future if you change stocks. Put tape in the stock in front of where you want the bedding to stop. Then add some a strip of plumbers putty to act as a dam so that the bedding material does not flow past that point. Or if it does, it is easier to remove by scoring with a razor blade and breaking off to form a clean line.

The picture below shows the first and last bedding job I did with JBW. I had the same problems you experienced because I did not wait at least 24 hours. I had to remove and redo the bedding job.

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y333/jpdowns54/PICT0008_zps5ozrgoti.jpg (http://s1027.photobucket.com/user/jpdowns54/media/PICT0008_zps5ozrgoti.jpg.html)

[yew plucker]

You should clean up the oversqueez at that time. The bedding compound will be like congealed putty then. Let it set a full twelve hours before you call it good.

[big honkin jeep]

Sounds like you're doing an Axis stock which I have never done so I hesitate to try and advise on that oddball recoil lug arrangement.
I have done several based on the 10/110 action. I always let it set 24 hours before separating the action and stock.
Never any problems and the JB weld will hold up for decades if properly mixed and allowed to set.

[wbm]

I prefer Devcon Plastic Steel Epoxy

Me too. Good stuff.

[zr600]

What to use to clean the kiwi shoe polish off with?

[Texas10]

Paint thinner, lacquer thinner, wax and grease remover, acetone, gun cleaning solvent, carb cleaner. Just about anything will take it off.

+1 on the Devcon 10110. I can do a complete bedding, pop out the barrel, clean up squeeze and flash in about 2 1/2 hours at a shop temp of 85F. Once clean, I mount the barrel and clamp lightly for overnight, and it's ready to go next morning.

The secret to working with epoxies is knowing that they are thermo-set plastics. They like heat during cure, as long as it isn't too much heat, especially a gradual increase in heat. Curing at a low temperature is a big mistake, but can be remedied by post cure tempering at a higher temperature.

Central Texas is perfect this time of year for epoxy work. Set up in the morning when temps are 80 or so, everything is warm, epoxy mixes and flows well. Let it cure for several hours as the temp rises. Then clean, carve, trim and reassemble. Let it continue to cure while temps hit 100 and slowly cool overnight. Couldn't ask for better conditions to get maximum strength, bond and hardness out of your epoxy, unless of course you have an autoclave. I can't afford one, so i use vacuum bagging and a hair dryer stuffed into a cardboard box.

[DrThunder88]

I find a heating pad works pretty well for providing the right heat. A family member found one of my rifles in its cleaning cradle with the heating pad wrapped around the receiver and left a "get well soon" note on it.

I know I have a habit of linking things in the text of my posts, but if there are any showing up in this one I don't know how they got there.

[Stork]

[QUOTE=DrThunder88;377355] A family member found one of my rifles in its cleaning cradle with the heating pad wrapped around the receiver and left a "get well soon" note on it.[QUOTE]

Gotta love smart alec's.
al

[zr600]

Ok got it out back together and noticed the barrel isn't centered in the stock almost touching on one side what is causing this? How to fix?

[foxx]

It wasn't centered when set into bedding and allowed to set. No big deal, just remove good 1/8 inch of all the material, more around the recoil lug and try again. Wrap a few layers of tape around a spot on the barrel so as to keep it centered in the barrel channel.

[zr600]

So just put the tape on the barrel will align it centered in the stock? I think I might just tape the barrel nut then the middle of the barrel and the end of the barrel. I thought that when I tighten the action screws down while the expoxy was wet that it would have centered itself but I guess not lol. I'll get it right one of these times I guess.