Savage Stealth in 6.5 - First impressions.

[Palmaris]

Was doing some maintenace on the rifle and decided to re-torque scope base screws. For my surprising found that screws are 8-40 instead of 6-48. Does anybody else have the same?

[6.5savageguy]

Was doing some maintenace on the rifle and decided to re-torque scope base screws. For my surprising found that screws are 8-40 instead of 6-48. Does anybody else have the same?

Unless I'm misunderstanding you're question that's what everyone has been "torqued" off about. 0 MOA rail installed with bigger screws so until recently even if you ordered a new aftermarket 20 MOA rail you had to drill the holes in the new base to fit the screws.

[Hawaiian]

Was doing some maintenace on the rifle and decided to re-torque scope base screws. For my surprising found that screws are 8-40 instead of 6-48. Does anybody else have the same?

Everyone I've spoken to that has a Stealth has the 8-40 scope rail screws. If you want to order a 20 MOA rail from EGW they say it'll take a week to drill it out for the 8-40 screws.
http://www.egwguns.com/scope-mounts/savage-round-back-short-action-picatinny-rail-scope-mount-20-moa/

Sharpshooters Supply has a 20 MOA rail that will work.

[Palmaris]

I was under impression that screws were 6-48, I didn't know they have changed on Stealth to 8-40. I am new to Savage, just read everywhere people are complaining about Savage has 6-48 screws. This is why it was surprise for me.
Now, on the different note. Can someone explain to me how scope sighted with 20 MOA base? In my understanding, after installing 20 MOA base, I have to crank elevation down and sight crosshair to the target at 100 yards. This is pretty much clear. But what is next? I have to crank elevation 20 MOA up and assume I am on target at 1000 yards range (it shouldn't be, in my ballistic calculator bullet drop at list 28 MOA)? I just do not understand how 20 MOA works. Please help

[J.Baker]

Sharpshooters Supply has a 20 MOA rail that will work.

You'll have to request theirs be drilled out for the larger screws as well when ordering.

[J.Baker]

I was under impression that screws were 6-48, I didn't know they have changed on Stealth to 8-40. I am new to Savage, just read everywhere people are complaining about Savage has 6-48 screws. This is why it was surprise for me.
Now, on the different note. Can someone explain to me how scope sighted with 20 MOA base? In my understanding, after installing 20 MOA base, I have to crank elevation down and sight crosshair to the target at 100 yards. This is pretty much clear. But what is next? I have to crank elevation 20 MOA up and assume I am on target at 1000 yards range (it shouldn't be, in my ballistic calculator bullet drop at list 28 MOA)? I just do not understand how 20 MOA works. Please help

You sight in exactly the same way as you do with a zero degree base. All a 20 MOA base does is angles the scope so that when you zero you will have more up travel left over for dialing for longer distances.

For example, say you had your scope mounted on a zero base and after zeroing you had 27 minutes of up travel. Now you swap out the zero base for a 20 MOA base and re-zero. Assuming everything is kosher with everything else you should now have 47 minutes of up travel available in your scope.

You still need to dial in the same amount of dope to go from your zero to 1,000 yards no matter if you have a zero or 20 MOA base.

[SageRat Shooter]

Here is the theory behind a 20 moa base: Say for example you have 80 MOA of total elevation you can dope on your scope (40 MOA above mechanical center and 40 MOA below Mechanical center) now, I have never seen a scope that is both zeroed @ 100 yards and also mechanically centered.

So, let's say you're zeroed @ 100 yards and you only have say 25 MOA of elevation left on your turret that you can dial.... But you need say 35 MOA to get to 1000 yards... So, you slap the 20 MOA rail on and you can now effectively dial 45 MOA of elevation. It's always best if you can keep your dope more in the middle of the dialing capabilities. As you start to max out your dope, the turrets may not track exactly as they should which can through off your shot. You still have to run the same calculations on your app to see what your actual dope is going to be. Really it should be the same required dope that you needed when you didn't have the rail on it. The rail only increases your available elevation MOA.

Hope that helps,

[jfoote208]

So seeings how this is a post about first impressions I have a list of firsts, this is my first forum post ever, 2nd first I am new to long range shooting, 3rd I am a new owner of a 6.5 creedmoor in a stealth platform, having said that the discussion on MOA rails has me wondering if I made a wrong decision in putting 20 MOA scope rings under my Vortex PST. What are the thoughts between the 2 options. Scope rings or MOA base? Thanks


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[SageRat Shooter]

In my opinion it's just a matter of preference... Some guys like the rail, some guys like the rings and spacers.... My suggestion is, just buy quality which ever way you go.

[Hawaiian]

Now, on the different note. Can someone explain to me how scope sighted with 20 MOA base? In my understanding, after installing 20 MOA base, I have to crank elevation down and sight crosshair to the target at 100 yards. This is pretty much clear. But what is next? I have to crank elevation 20 MOA up and assume I am on target at 1000 yards range (it shouldn't be, in my ballistic calculator bullet drop at list 28 MOA)? I just do not understand how 20 MOA works. Please help

With a 0 MOA base, your scopes elevation knob is set somewhere around mid travel (maybe, give or take). By using a 20 or more MOA rail you tip the front of your scope down. After zeroing your scope you have more adjustment up then you do down. So it be the 20 MOA rail, plus the adjustment available in your scope.
Say your scope has 12 MOA of adjustment. You have a 0 MOA rail so when you 0 at a hundered yards the scopes adjustment is at 6 or 7 roughly 50% of it's adjustable range is wasted. Cant the scope forward or down and you 0 at a hundred. You have more of the scopes adjustment usable to go up.

Here's a link that explains it way better than my explanation. http://warnescopemounts.com/20moa-explained/

[Bhowell]

Set it up with some MOA to start with. I put 40 MOA into Burris XTR Extreme rings and have over 60 MOA of up elevation in my scope allowing me to dial all the way out to 1400 yards with the 6.5. The downside is the closer to the edge of the scope you are you might lose some clarity and the tracking might be off.

[jfoote208]

So my 6.5 stealth came with a 22" barrel, do I stay with the 22" length or have the 24" barrel installed. What are the pro and cons? Anyone shot the 22" and changed to a 24"?


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[Palmaris]

Thank you very much guys for explanation on 20 MOA.
One more thing, almost forgot. I purchased Varmint (Target) spring from Gun Shack. Ones I open rifle for maintenance, I found that spring on my Stealth looks exactly the same as spring I received. I counted coils, measured wire diameter, everything to get an idea if there any difference and found non. I cranked original spring down to minimum pull weight and found that spring doesn't need to be replaced. I measured 1 lb 10 oz. I am good with this number.

[Hawaiian]

I cranked original spring down to minimum pull weight and found that spring doesn't need to be replaced. I measured 1 lb 10 oz. I am good with this number.

That's the same pull I got after adjusting it down. You're a smarter man than I am. I changed the trigger just to be able to go lower.

[Hawaiian]

So my 6.5 stealth came with a 22" barrel, do I stay with the 22" length or have the 24" barrel installed. What are the pro and cons? Anyone shot the 22" and changed to a 24"?


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On page 5 or 6 there were a few people that got the 22 inch barrels instead of the 24 inch ones. You and call Savage and have them put on a 24.
I think CBryars2 was able to get a non fluted 24 inch put on when he sent it back to Savage.

Here's a link to an article that'll show you how much the difference in velocity is with various bullets with different barrel length.
http://rifleshooter.com/2016/02/6-5-creedmoor-effect-of-barrel-length-on-velocity-cutting-up-a-creedmoor/

(http://rifleshooter.com/2016/02/6-5-creedmoor-effect-of-barrel-length-on-velocity-cutting-up-a-creedmoor/)

[icker96]

I also bought a BA Stealth in 6.5 creedmoor over the holidays and it came with the 22" barrel. I am working on my load, but it looks like I will be right around 2800fps with Nosler 140 RDF. According to that article I would not pick up that much more velocity. I think it is accurate with the 22" and a little easier to maneuver. I am thinking that I am going to stick with the 22" instead of losing the rifle for 3-6 weeks for rebarrel.

[Palmaris]

I think having rifle to know to be 24" barrel with actual length 22" will eventually loos it resale value. I would hesitate to loose opportunity to re-barrel her back to spec over loosing 3-4 weeks of fun.

[CBryars2]

I was about 1/2 moa with 22, went ahead and rebarrelled and had them not flute. Glad I did, rifle is even better. Took 4 weeks door to door.

[CBryars2]

At Precision Rifle Blog in their end of year match show a guy shooting what looks to be a Savage Stealth in Production class. Looking for more info.

[Inspector12]

I have read this thread with great interest as I have recently put a stealth in 6.5 creedmore on layaway at a local gun shop. Many good observations already shared and several good suggestions such as the 20 moa rail and some other "improvements". Looking forward to picking this gun up and then putting some glass on it and taking it to the range.