Striker 516 stock, trigger, caliber swap questions

[JClark]

Hi all,

I have a 1st gen 516 in .260.

It had a horrible trigger pull. . The roller at the rear of the trigger linkage would not roll. I soaked it and got it free. I can roll it but it will not roll on its own. I have read it is supposed to roll and that it was not supposed to roll. I put in a smaller dia spring wire and polished the roller. It pulls so much better now.

Can anyone say for sure if the roller should roll free on its own when the trigger is pulled?

If I change the barrel and bolt to 233, do I have/need to change the magazine follower? Are the magazine followers the same as the SA rifles?

I would like to change to a rear trigger. Is there a current source of not too expensive pistol stocks available?
Will any 10/110 trigger work with this receiver?

I am wanting to SBR a savage pistol action. Look like I missed the boat on less expensive undesignated receivers a few years ago. The left hand bolt seems like it would be awkward for me, but significanty cheaper than a new action. I understand the receiver hole spacings are different from the rifles. Other than that,
what else do I have to take into account to put this model receiver in a SA rifle stock?

Any rifle stocks available for this receiver? Good stock to modify?

Thanks
JoeC

[Sawfish]

Rollers should roll. I had to soak mine in Kroil to dissolve the packing grease and free up the roller. Any trigger for the older model (pre-Accu-trigger) 110 variations will work. I converted one of my Strikers to rear trigger (Timney) and it works fine, but I use it less than the others because of the weight. If you want a hunting gun, leave it as a mid grip. If you want a bench rest gun, the rear trigger conversion may be for you. If you are converting to a .223, you may have to change the follower. I have a older 110 in .223, and I believe the follower is different. You could substitute a benchrest style follower, which would make it a single shot.

The main problem with the Striker trigger is that many Striker owners are trying to make them into something they were never intended to be. A number of folks disagree with me on this point, but the Striker trigger linkage was designed (or mis-designed depending on your point of view) as a two stage trigger much like the old 98 Mauser. First stage takes up the slack; second stage fires the gun. When you try to make it into an XP-100 trigger, there is not enough slack in the linkage to allow the trigger to re-set itself, and slam fires occur. The stock trigger is not a bench rest trigger, and try as you might, you cannot make it into one. However, you can achieve a very safe and serviceable trigger on your Striker.

Your gun is a Generation One, which is easily identifiable by the two action bars with the aforementioned roller at the end. In my opinion, the Generation one has the best trigger system because it is not mounted to the magazine box. This is one of the main reasons why the factory Striker trigger will not stay in adjustment. It works fine on the bench but fails in the field because of the difference in loaded vs unloaded magazine combined with the characteristically loose magazine box. You can change the factory trigger for a Rifle Basix trigger, which requires some modification, but is worth the trouble. I installed the factory Gen 3 trigger that was on my 300 WSM into the Gen 1 which conventional wisdom says will not work. The trigger pull is now excellent.

Go to the Specialty Pistols website, and do a search for "Savage Striker", and you will find a host of information providing more detailed answers to your questions. Good luck.