Wavy washer, what is the purpose.

[Robinhood]

What is the Wavy Washer for on the bolt between the baffle and the bolt body for?


What does removing the radius on the back of the bolt head and moving the WW forward between the baffle and the bolt head do exactly? Lubrication facilitation?

[JW]

The washer enables the "floating" of the bolt head
your are right about the lubrication point

[BillPa]

What is the Wavy Washer for on the bolt between the baffle and the bolt body for?
What does removing the radius on the back of the bolt head and moving the WW forward between the baffle and the bolt head do exactly? Lubrication facilitation?

IIRC it's called the ...what for it....the "front baffle washer":p

There was a discussion some years ago why the radius/ fillet exists. The best guess IIRC, when the boltheads are machined the shaft and lugs are machined using the same radiused bit in the same setup. One is machined first, then the other, the bit's radius creates the fillet at the junction. When I remove it I use a bit with it's tip honed to a much less of a radius for a smooth cut. How much less? Dunno, I give it few swipes with a stone just enough to round it off a tad then have at it!:p

And yes, in it's normal position it acts as a bolt grease squeegee. When I clean my bolt guns ( Savage, Win 70, 700s and one lone Ruugggeer) the lugs,their abutments , lead in ramps and recesses are always cleaned as part of my regiment. After I apply a light thin coat of grease( bolt or lithium) on the lugs so when the bolts are locked to battery some of it is transferred to all those other surfaces. I don't want the baffle wiping it off prior.

Bill

[sharpshooter]

The purpose of the washer is to keep friction on the front baffle. Without it, the baffle would just rattle around and make it harder to re-insert the bolt. The radius must be removed so that the washer will go up against the lugs, otherwise the washer will bind on the i.d. The early models had a squared corner on the lugs, so it was not necessary.

[Robinhood]

Thanks fellas.


The purpose of the washer is to keep friction on the front baffle. Without it, the baffle would just rattle around and make it harder to re-insert the bolt. The radius must be removed so that the washer will go up against the lugs, otherwise the washer will bind on the i.d. The early models had a squared corner on the lugs, so it was not necessary.
Fred, That is what I believe as well. I have a couple of bolts where I removed the washer and let the baffle just float. The lube stays on better assembled that way as Bill eluded to.

Bill, yep!

JW. The loose fit of the head/body and the slop of the head cross pin allow the float right. The washer is just there to make the baffle secure. In the stock configuration, refer to the wiper comment from bill. The old mod and the one Fred uses on his action work, where he turns the back face of the bolt and removes the Fillet/radius to accommodate the washer between the baffle and the head maintains a space for lube.

[RC20]

Robninhood:

Looks like you allotment is full on the site, no space for PM reply!

[Hector]

Thanks fellas.


Fred, That is what I believe as well. I have a couple of bolts where I removed the washer and let the baffle just float. The lube stays on better assembled that way as Bill eluded to.

Bill, yep!

JW. The loose fit of the head/body and the slop of the head cross pin allow the float right. The washer is just there to make the baffle secure. In the stock configuration, refer to the wiper comment from bill. The old mod and the one Fred uses on his action work, where he turns the back face of the bolt and removes the Fillet/radius to accommodate the washer between the baffle and the head maintains a space for lube.

This is good stuff, but what is the "fillet/radius"? Pictures are good for me if you got them.

[Robinhood]

Hector, If you look at the picture of the bolt head, Focus on the transition between the nose or smaller diameter and look to where it transitions into the head. This is a radius. The Front baffle has an internal chamfer to allow it to rub face to face with the bolt head. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a195/SHL540/65saum24.jpg


The wave washer from the factory is positioned between the baffle and the bolt body.
http://www.huntinggearguy.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/savage-floating-bolt-head.jpg

[BillPa]

Hector, If you look at the picture of the bolt head, Focus on the transition between the nose or smaller diameter and look to where it transitions into the head.


Here...http://oi65.tinypic.com/suznn6.jpg

... and a bolt head with it removed.
http://oi44.tinypic.com/2149qhg.jpg
Bill

[Robinhood]

Thanks Bill. Always at the right time!

[Hector]

Thank you Robinhood and BillPa. The pictures are great.
So if I've got this right, your cutting the radius off of the bolt head and moving the washer to the center of the two for better lubrication in between the baffle and the bolt head. Is this correct?

[RC20]

That has occurred to me as well. Worst area of wear is on the back of the bolt lugs. I may remove the washer and see how it goes.

I am single shot shooting so a bit of futzing is not going to be an issue.

I don't like seeing the grease wiped out (I use a synthetic) as well as synthetic oil on the other parts (keeps cold from being an issue up here)

[Robinhood]

Thank you Robinhood and BillPa. The pictures are great.
So if I've got this right, your cutting the radius off of the bolt head and moving the washer to the center of the two for better lubrication in between the baffle and the bolt head. Is this correct?
More like facilitating improved lubrication between the bolt lugs and action lugs.

[sharpshooter]

If you remove the washer completely, there is nothing to hold the baffle away from the back of the lugs.