Stockade Bolt Lift kit

[boolitschuuter]

I've been surfing threads and came across one discussing some home brew methods to improve bolt lift.
I installed two Stockade bolt lift kits and knew nothing about needing to remove material from the Bolt assembly screw.
I haven't noticed any problem, though I have to admit I didn't notice that much improvement either :-\
Do I need to measure and trim?...The world wonders. ???

[pdog06]

You didnt notice any improvement because you now added more spring pressure to it.

You need to measure from the top of the ball bearing to the bottom of the washer. Should be right around .110". That will be how much you need to relieve off the Bolt assembly screw(or BAS for short). The idea is to have less contact area without any increased spring pressure.

BTW, those bolts are VERY hard, so you may need to take it to a machinest or gunsmith to shorten it.

[boolitschuuter]

Pdog,
You were right. Took my rifles to my gunsmith today, measured it out, trimmed the BAS. Now the bolts are smooth as glass! I can lift the uncocked bolt with my pinky! These work so well my gunsmith is gonna make some for his rifles.

[scamp62]

Will the bolt lift kit work with any Savage Bolt ? I’ve seen the mod with the .38 Cal case and ball bearing, it seems it would not work with my (Mod, 10 FCP-K) bolt. I have a cocking indicator thought the center of the back of the bolt. I my very well be wrong, as I have not seen that kit, any info would be appreciated !!!

[pdog06]

Will the bolt lift kit work with any Savage Bolt ? I’ve seen the mod with the .38 Cal case and ball bearing, it seems it would not work with my (Mod, 10 FCP-K) bolt. I have a cocking indicator thought the center of the back of the bolt. I my very well be wrong, as I have not seen that kit, any info would be appreciated !!!


No, it will not work with the newer bolt that has the cocking indicator. But there is some good news. SSS makes bolt lift kits that will fit those bolts as well as the older style. Give'em a call.

[scamp62]

Pdog06 is this a new item, for I don’t see it on there web site ?

[jpdown]

There are several parts SSS does not list. These are some of the little tidbits you pick reading this forum. They also have other Savage parts like the lighter Accu-trigger spring that suppose to go down to 1.5# (none of mine ever have) they don't list. I believe Fred uses the lift kits in his T&T jobs, so he most likely had to come up with a version for the new bolt.

[BillPa]

Fred's (SSS) lift kit for the new through the BAS cocking indicator.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/sharp-shooter/thrustbearing.jpg

Bill

[pdog06]

Pdog06 is this a new item, for I don’t see it on there web site ?


Yes this is a newer item, but like said before, theres alot of things they sell that arent listed.

[Quickshot]

Hey Guys, What ever happened with the idea floated here a while back about putting the correct thickness of washer in between BAS and bolt handle? I have been reluctant to get into grinding the BAS in case it turned out not to be helpful. Quick

[drybean]

that is what i would to know or who sells a shorten bas

[boolitschuuter]

Based on my recent experience, you are going to have to shorten the BAS. The part is 5$ or less if you don't like the mod. Strongly suggest that you measure the cocking piece sleeve with and without the bearing kit installed. While numerous posters have said to remove .110" from the BAS, we found on one bolt only .097" was needed and on the other only .092" was necessary.

[Blue Avenger]

and if you have the old screws that went into the sleeve some you are really long....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v675/gcidso123/savage/gunsmith/savagebolt008.jpg

[Darth1]

I'm new here. Glad to see all the ideas!

I recently bought a 10 FCP-HS in .308 and was "just a little" disappointed with the action. I have been polishing things and slowly getting it smoother.

I was reading about the .357 case and ball bearing trick. I found that a 22-250 case (with a little work) is the exact size I needed to fit the ID and OD of the sleeve. The only problem I had was shortening the BAS, I really didn't want to shorten it. What I did was make a washer to go between the "bolt handle" and the bolt, to "pull" the BAS bolt back the amount that the 22-250 head and ball bearing added. This way, If I want to go back to "stock" ... I can.

I also read about adding a washer (like I did) and one fellow said that the bolt would not thread into the tube as far as it did originally. If you trim the BAS back the amount of the lift kit ... neither does it, you have just cut off (how ever many) threads.

I compared my 2008 204 Ruger (Savage of coarse) to my 10 FCP and there is a notable difference in bolt operation. I also compared my Rem 700 (1970's) to both of them. They have a completely different feel to them ... hard to compare.