Savage 243 all over the place

[87tpita]

I traded my ccw 9mm for an older 110 in 243... its date to 89-95 production time iirc. Took it out today and it was all over the place on target.. avg. About 4" spread at 100yds.. the scope is a cheap center point (came with rifle, but everything is tight and secure) and the ammo was the cheapest i could find just to test it.. with those factors i wasn't expecting much for tight groups but it was much worse than i thought.... Could this be the sign of a worn out barrel?

[foxx]

Who knows? When shopping 243, 22-250, 25-06 or any other known "barrel burner" I discount the barrel 100%. (Assume the barrel is shot out). However, what you're saying is SO bad, I doubt it's the barrel. My reasoning is, barrels get shot out rather gradually. If it's the barrel, I gotta wonder who bothered to continue to shoot it when it was only half that bad?

Therefore, I am thinking it is the scope and or mount/rings.

[LHitchcox]

The first thing i would do would be to check the scope ring screws and base screws. Then if everything was tight, I would try a known good scope on it just to eliminate that possibility. Sometimes the action screws, especially the front one can be too long and bottom into the barrel threads before snugging down. Check the action screws too they can be loose. It doesn't take much looseness to put impact all over the paper.

[Texas10]

^^^^ +1

Guy in the bench next to me last week was having the same problem. Asked me to look at his Savage 7mm mag and both action screws were loose. Torqued them to 45 in lbs front, 25 in lbs aft with my cheap $20 torque wrench from harbor freight.

His groups went from all over the place to 1 moa.

This link might help. http://www.accurateshooter.com/technical-articles/savage-action-screw-torque-tuning/

[handirifle]

I would also look at the barrel, not to being worn, but fouled. No mention of cleaning it, I would use good copper remover and test with patches till the green is gone, then clean some more. I bet that sucker was never cleaned.

I have a Savage 243 I bought new in 1974, and the last time I tried cheap Federal 100gr Fusion bullets, it cloverleafed the 3 shot group.

[RustyShackle]

How is the muzzle? that's where I would look first. As has already been mentioned a good cleaning is in order. I would also swap a known good scope onto it.

[87tpita]

Muzzle looks good... i didn't clean it before shooting so that could definitely be playing a role

[87tpita]

My eyes could be playing tricks on me but when i pulled the action to adjust the trigger pull i noticed this ..block surely looks a bit benthttp://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh221/87tpita/Mobile%20Uploads/20160507_204950_zpsq4c00vce.jpg (http://s257.photobucket.com/user/87tpita/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160507_204950_zpsq4c00vce.jpg.html)

[RustyShackle]

Yes, I would suffice to say, that doesn't look very straight. I would take that apart and check that. I would surmise that it is about as straight as a mountain road:o You could also check the receiver face while apart too. But the recoil lug is a stamped piece and it is moderately common to find these out of 'spec'. Not sure on your capabilities or access to good services but you could true that receiver face while apart if any concern. Between the barrel nut, the recoil lug, and the receiver face, can determine the barrel concentricity to the action/receiver itself once together. The savage design lends itself to be favorable in this area with its 'floating' bolt head, but the more concentric you can build it, the better it will perform.

If you don't have an action wrench or barrel vice you can get away with using a large crescent wrench and barrel nut wrench to get that thing apart. Just tape up the area good so you don't scuff up the receiver or recoil lug if concerned. I actually use this method for the notorious 'stuck' barrel nut. I haven't met one that I couldn't get apart using this method.

*edit. with that recoil lug and the factory stock its very plausible that you are not getting a good receiver to stock bed. I would probably hog out that stock and JB Weld bed that once you get your new lug installed.

You could also get a tight fitting patch and slowly push it through the bore and get a 'feel' for the bore. If it gets easy or tight will give you an idea of how the barrel is. You can also put marks on your cleaning rod and measure your twist rate throughout the length of the barrel at this time. I came across a barrel once where the twist rate varied. True story.