Bolt Grease

[Merky1761]

Got a new FCP SR 308 and wanted to know how to lube the back of the lugs. I searched and found a photo of all the lube points but one post said that I have to reposition the spring otherwise the baffle will wipe the grease off. can any one put a pic of this spring that needs repositioned and how or what I must do to reposition it.

[lrshooting]

Your going to be a little hard pressed to really re position that spring to affect how much grease gets wiped off. I wouldn't worry about it too much. If anything, you could pull the firing pin, pull the bolt head off, remove the baffle, put the bolt head back on, apply grease, and then push the bolt as far foward as possible, cycle it a couple times, pull it back out, and reassemble.

Its more important that you use a good quality grease than how much you can get on the lugs. Poor grease will wipe off right away anyways. Something like Mobil 1 synthetic moly would be sufficient. If you can, get some cornhead grease...that stuff is wicked good at staying on whatever it touches. I use it on the snap rollers on the cornhead and its made to stay put and stand up to the constant friction between the snap rollers and holder bushings.

[BillPa]

I searched and found a photo of all the lube points but one post said that I have to reposition the spring otherwise the baffle will wipe the grease off. Can any one put a pic of this spring that needs repositioned and how or what I must do to reposition it.

I loosely call it the "Spring washer", technically its the "Front baffle friction washer". In it's original location its between the front baffle and bolt body.

http://oi56.tinypic.com/23kcbow.jpg

You can't simply just relocate it between the baffle and lugs At the junction of the bolthead shaft and the lugs is a fillet.(radius) For the washer to be able to seat flat against the lug boss it needs to be removed( machined) or the ID of the washer needs to be opened a bit.

http://oi65.tinypic.com/suznn6.jpg
Machining it square is the best option, enlarging the washer ID second. If you enlarge the washer ID too much when the bolt is initially unlocked it will slip down, hang up and make retracting the bolt a tad difficult! :p My advise, if you can't or are unsure how to either way ...leave it alone.

BTW, the junction of the PTG heads are already machined square.

Bill

[Merky1761]

Thanks for the info, seems easier to just put a drop of oil between the lug and baffle. :confused:

[Bolthead]

Synthetic gear lube is the hardest stuff to clean or wipe off of anything, so I suspect that it would hold up well on the lugs. So far so good. Not sure how it would do in cold weather, but being a thin film, probably OK.

[m12lrs]

I just put a drop of Phil Wood Tenacious Oil on the back of my lugs when I clean. It is sticky and about like 90 wt gear oil.

[upSLIDEdown]

I use synthetic disk brake lube. It stays put well and has served me well thus far.

[Fotheringill]

Re: Front baffle friction washer

I have it on my Model 12 F/TR. It is bent. Is this the way it is supposed to be or should it be flat?

[Bolthead]

Bent. It is actually a spring.

[short round]

No need to grind or machine, when moving wavy washer to bolt head. If spring doesn't fit, turn it over.

[LongRange]

frog lube.

[Texas10]

frog lube.

Is it a spray, or do you have to Rubb-it in?:cool: