Hello! considering making the switch.

[GaCop]

What kind of mods did you have to perform to make that switch? I plan on doing the same. Picking my glass up this week for the build and ordering a stock once I decide which one I want. From 30-06 to 308 just entails a barrel change. Change out the factory recoil lug too as they're stamped, not dead flat like the ground after market lugs are.

[Russmerle]

Te .338LM actions are different from regular 110 actions. The top of reciever is solid and not cutout to increase rigidity where as the 110 has the cutout. Was shooting with a guy who had the .338LM BA. If you want the 338LM you will need to start with that specific action. There is information a dug up on it when I started my 110 build. Originally wanted a .338LM but went with 300WM since I could use the regular 110 action.

[Hotolds442]

Welcome!

[Wide Glide]

would it be a bad idea to buy a 110fcp-hs .300 wm just to swap barrels to a .308 so i would have the ability to load long without having to single feed?
EDIT... from what I'm reading I should be able to load plenty long with the short action

i've decided i need .308 and want to be able to feed long rounds from a mag. so atleast one of the rifles i buy needs to be .308 or easily converted.

for the second rifle i still havent decided between .338lm or .300wm.

if i were to buy used i could get used .300wm and .308 and have enough left over for the new 10fcp .338lm

[Wide Glide]

one more question... lol

is there any reason to set the headspace of the rifle to near min with go guage vs sizing brass to current headspace of rifle?

i ended up getting both the 10fcp hs precision in .308 and the 110fcp hs precision in .338 lapua. i went hand tight to the go guage then backed off maybe an 8th of a turn on the .308 as soon as i got it but by the time the .338 came yesterday i was pondering the above question and havent messed with it yet.

[foxx]

If building for MYSELF, I prefer to headspace off of brass sized thru MY die. Make it tight for YOUR brass. Theoretically it is more accurate because there's less play. If you sell it to someone else, or try to use factory ammo, the bolt might not close on it b/c it is too tight.

If you use a go-gage, it should be fine regardless. If you want it to close easily (no resistance at all), you can back it off a tad as you said. Either way, be sure to double-check that the bolt handle will only close 1/3 to 1/2 way on a no-go gage (or resized brass with tape).

[Wide Glide]

I managed to overlook the fact that the .338 has a break. How are you supposed to spin the barrel to get the desired headspace while still maintaining the brakes proper orientation?

Id assume to adjust one full rotation at a time to keep the brakes orientation but I'm pretty sure that 1 rotation makes too much adjustment....

Every time I think I'm ready to start load development I think of something else like this.

[drybean]

Set your head space then you have to time your brake

[Wide Glide]

Care to elaborate? It's my first rifle with a brake and while go ogling some make it sound as simple as making sure the ports go up while others start talking about lathes and machine shops

[Mustangrande]

I can't speak for the savage, but on some other rifles, timing the brake involves installing some sort of crush-washer behind it, and then tightening it down. The washer crushes slightly as you tighten, and you just stop when you reach dead-center. (Being careful not to go too far. You can't un-crush the washer.)