PDA

View Full Version : FC brass



Hair_Boxers
02-28-2016, 10:05 PM
Have never used FC brass. Have rarely seen folks talk highly of it. Rep for being soft?

I have a good amount for my 25-06AI that came my way through a bag of mixed headstamp given to me by a guy at the range that also shoots 25-06.

Trying to decide if I use it or not.

Good experiences? Bad experiences? Tips on what to watch for?

BarrelBurner
02-28-2016, 10:25 PM
I used it for quite sometime in my .25/06, accuracy was great. Not really any issues, just watch for the primer pockets getting loose, that's what I ran across after about 7-8 loadings. It may not last as long as Winchester but sounds like you have plenty to work with.

bigedp51
02-28-2016, 11:26 PM
Brass hardness in the base and how the case is constructed plays the biggest part in how long your primer pockets last. The flash hole web thickness adds strength to the base of the case and when you have soft brass and a thin flash hole web the primer pockets expand much sooner.

Below the Federal .223 case on the left was called "soft" and many of these cases had oversized primer pockets after the first firing. The Lake City 5.56 and commercial contract 5.56 ammunition made for the military on the right has the hardest brass and the thickest flash hole web and the longest case life.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/federal_zpsbp4r0zok.jpg

Out of commercial brass Lapua has the hardest brass and Federal and Remington are the softest.

Bottom line, reload your Federal brass and if you want it to last then do not load it hot.

How Hard is Your Brass? 5.56 and .223 Rem Base Hardness Tests (NOTE: Federal is softer than Remington, CatShooter later updated the hardness list below)
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/05/how-hard-is-your-brass-5-56-and-223-rem-base-hardness-tests/

Silvercrow1
02-29-2016, 12:44 AM
Hey Hair_Boxers; I had just purchased some new brass- Lapua and Norma, as I was on my 5th reloading of FC brass. I was getting no signs of incipient head separation, no loose primer pockets but was very worried as I had read how horrible FC brass was, etc. I was also desiring to reload to some higher charges. Anyway, I have had nothing but excellent service from my FC brass- initial 75 cases I had started reloading with.

The majority of my loads in .223 Rem. with FC brass are in the medium to slightly above medium charge areas- although when using 55 Gn Hornady spire points I charge to 26.1 Gn. W748 which is max according to Hornady tables. Excellent goupings out to 200 yards though.

Two weeks ago I read the same article BigEd posted above. WOW- thin web! I thoroughly examined all my FC brass and if there was even a hint of weakening anywhere, I canned the cases. I canned 9 cases altogether. BUT I had done much of my early load development using those cases....

Still worried about the web, I selected an FC case at random and took the dremel cutter to it. It measured .0725 at the web. That put my mind at ease. I have no idea what my FC brass "rockwells" at.

Certainly, loose primer pockets; ANY sign of cracking, wear, etc DO NOT continue to use the case.

SO...your mileage may vary- but I will continue to use my FC brass, inspecting VERY carefully as I am beginning my 6th reload on those cases.

The only other thing I can tell you is my FC brass has a "dot" before and after the "FC" stamping. I do not know what, if any, that means or the significance, if any.

Lapua and Norma arguably make the "best" brass as far as uniformity and longevity, but are expensive. I'm using the term arguably as I am relatively new to reloading and I have not conducted extensive studies-those who have expertise and conducted the studies say they are the best. I bit the bullet and bought some- excuse the pun-but my FC been verrry good-to-me.

Brian

eddiesindian
02-29-2016, 02:11 AM
Brass hardness in the base and how the case is constructed plays the biggest part in how long your primer pockets last. The flash hole web thickness adds strength to the base of the case and when you have soft brass and a thin flash hole web the primer pockets expand much sooner.

Below the Federal .223 case on the left was called "soft" and many of these cases had oversized primer pockets after the first firing. The Lake City 5.56 and commercial contract 5.56 ammunition made for the military on the right has the hardest brass and the thickest flash hole web and the longest case life.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/federal_zpsbp4r0zok.jpg

Out of commercial brass Lapua has the hardest brass and Federal and Remington are the softest.

Bottom line, reload your Federal brass and if you want it to last then do not load it hot.

How Hard is Your Brass? 5.56 and .223 Rem Base Hardness Tests (NOTE: Federal is softer than Remington, CatShooter later updated the hardness list below)
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2014/05/how-hard-is-your-brass-5-56-and-223-rem-base-hardness-tests/

Great pic. I've been using lc in 223,308 for years. Recently found some 260 LC that was necked down from 308. I always get once fired unprocessed, can't go wrong.

bigedp51
02-29-2016, 05:16 AM
Still worried about the web, I selected an FC case at random and took the dremel cutter to it. It measured .0725 at the web. That put my mind at ease.


You do not need to section a case, you can use a steel rod to measure the web, below is a 2 inch rod I use for measuring my .223/5.56 cases web thickness.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/IMG_2028_zpsb357ed59.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/IMG_2030_zps54dd0d9e.jpg

It is my understanding between 2005 and 2009 Federal had the problem with "soft brass" but corrected the problem.

GaCop
02-29-2016, 08:39 AM
You do not need to section a case, you can use a steel rod to measure the web, below is a 2 inch rod I use for measuring my .223/5.56 cases web thickness.

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/IMG_2028_zpsb357ed59.jpg

http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o254/bigedp51/IMG_2030_zps54dd0d9e.jpg

It is my understanding between 2005 and 2009 Federal had the problem with "soft brass" but corrected the problem. Good idea Big Ed! :thumb:

darkker
02-29-2016, 07:31 PM
I have some relatively current, newer than 09 that still has soft heads.
I did a post on Shootersforum recently detailing it, didn't do my bolt head any favors. Case head growth was substantial.

As long as you know what you are getting into, either way isn't an issue. I personally took a hammer to every FC case, but may not be what you want to do.

Hair_Boxers
02-29-2016, 10:27 PM
So it sounds like it's usable, but needs to be monitored/watched pretty closely.

Things to watch for:
- case head growth
- primer pocket stretching

Tossing brass and buying more before it becomes a problem is cheaper than a new gun or a new me.

darkker
03-01-2016, 12:08 AM
Pretty much. Blowing-up bolt heads will certainly piss a guy off.:cool:

Silvercrow1
03-01-2016, 01:31 AM
You do not need to section a case, you can use a steel rod to measure the web, below is a 2 inch rod I use for measuring my .223/5.56 cases web thickness.



It is my understanding between 2005 and 2009 Federal had the problem with "soft brass" but corrected the problem.

HUH! Yeah....Well...if you don't want to have the FUN of cutting a case apart...go ahead! Use a rod!;)

GREAT idea BigEd! IF I as smarter I'd of thunk of that one my own self!

As I always say- sometimes the obvious escapes me!

AND as I always say- this place is THE place to be for knowledge / learning.

Thanks for that tip!

Brian

Silvercrow1
03-01-2016, 01:34 AM
So it sounds like it's usable, but needs to be monitored/watched pretty closely.

Things to watch for:
- case head growth
- primer pocket stretching

Tossing brass and buying more before it becomes a problem is cheaper than a new gun or a new me.

AMEN on that! Once I figure out the recipes for my pet loads using the new brass I'll probably permanently retire my FC brass. It's not that I mind doing this stuff-fun to figure out. But dang! I had some REALLY sweet loads using that FC brass. Now it's pretty much back to the drawing board!

Brian