Which scale do you use?

[Turbolung]

Lol my question was answered and thanks to all who took time to help a brother out. I know better equipment will not make me a better shooter but also understand the importance of consistency, and how better equipment provide that. I'm a big fan of Yobucks practical approaches and easy to understand verbage. Also all the little tips Bill and others that shared..sorry if I missed any names..like I said..this tiny screen makes it hard to everyone. Xl105,, thanks for the vids and your information. I know I will need to know more. Big DanSavage also uses practical approaches like Yobucks..that's the stuff that's easy to remember for a rookie like me lol but seriously, I appreciate all the tips and low downs on products. I hate buying something trying to pinch a PENNY and end up spending twice as much having to replace it with a good product. I wouldn't have known about the issues with digiscales. And it's also good to know the Lee disprnsors isn't garbage. Nice to meet all of you and hope I don't annoy any of you with my questions, cause Lawd knows there will be more bahahah

[orcldba]

Heck, I've been using an RCBS 505 for 38+ years. It's reliable & magnetically dampened.
I use it to validate my powder measure, the old school RCBS measure, also 38+ years old, and my Dillon and Lee measures.
The volume measures are great with ball powder, but when it comes to extruded powder (4064, 3031, Varget) I use the RCBS since it'll "chop" the powder grains.
Even cutting the grains, I've never seen more than 1/10th of a grain in variation.
It's all in a consistent motion.
:-)

[geezerhood]

I am replacing my RCBS (PACT) and Lyman auto dispensing electronic scale with a SmartReloader ISD. If you get one, be sure you tweak the settings with each powder you use (And SAVE the settings) to really speed things up without overcharging very often. Once set for that powder, you are golden. You CANNOT do this with the Chargemaster. You can adjust the speed / trickle settings but you can't save multiple settings so it only works the best for the one you set it with. Some guys add a small piece of plastic tubing (McDonald's Soda Straw) at the opening of the tube to prevent powder stackup.

I will keep my old 10-10? Ohaus as a backup for when there is no power or to verify the electronic from time to time, but I DETEST loading with it. In fact I pretty much hate using a balance beam scale for anything. I guess I am one lazy old guy. My Lyman auto dispenser has produced ammo that shoots in the teens, but it is too slow for me and tends to drift over an hour or so.

Whatever you get if it is an electronic scale, consider putting ferrite chokes on both ends of the power supply wire. They usually eliminate odd behavior and drifting if done right.

[orcldba]

Whatever you get if it is an electronic scale, consider putting ferrite chokes on both ends of the power supply wire. They usually eliminate odd behavior and drifting if done right.
The 'drift' of an electronic scale over a few hours, plus the increased sensitivity is the reason that I volume load, checking every 10th load when in the top 20% of the charge weights. Under normal circumstances, I can see that a fraction of a tenth of a grain difference makes as much as 15-25fps difference. Yes it can make a difference but I haven't found that it was worthwhile.
I used to shoot high power, weighing every single charge, but overall loading technique and shooting technique overpower the difference of a fractional tenth of a grain, but then I'm no longer a bench rest shooter or high power shooter... I just enjoy it!

[geezerhood]

The 'drift' of an electronic scale over a few hours, plus the increased sensitivity is the reason that I volume load, checking every 10th load when in the top 20% of the charge weights. Under normal circumstances, I can see that a fraction of a tenth of a grain difference makes as much as 15-25fps difference. Yes it can make a difference but I haven't found that it was worthwhile.
I used to shoot high power, weighing every single charge, but overall loading technique and shooting technique overpower the difference of a fractional tenth of a grain, but then I'm no longer a bench rest shooter or high power shooter... I just enjoy it!


I have heard of drift being eliminated with some scales using the ferrite chokes. I plan to try them with my new scale once it arrives.

I throw most of my charges from a good measure and get quit good accuracy from those loads with most powders, but for the 1000 to 1500 yard stuff in 50 BMG and 338 Lapua, I still weigh every charge even though they are just for fun for me.

[slurpin dog]

While those two old goats fight it out :p I'm using the new old stock 505 I tuned last year after my son "permanently" borrowed my old tuned D5!
http://oi62.tinypic.com/v48jfm.jpg

It doesn't drift, doesn't need a power source, doesn't need warmed up an hour before use and its as accurate /repeatable/consistent as a Rolex or a cheap Timex. I do have two digital scales, a RCBS and a Gem Pro 250 but seldom use them.

Bill


Biil,

Can you elaborate on how you tune your 505 scale. I have a 10-10 and seems it doesn't always settle consistently.

Ron

[BillPa]

Biil,

Can you elaborate on how you tune your 505 scale. I have a 10-10 and seems it doesn't always settle consistently.

Ron

The 10-10 is a repackaged 5-10. There are a couple things to to look at.
1. The Vee shafts on center balance must be clean and sharp.They're best cleaned-LIGHTLY sharpened using a stone and a magnifying glass. If they're pitted or beat up either replace the shaft or get a new beam.
2. The agate blocks(bearings) each rest on a rounded top 'dimple' in their towers. The tops are usually painted the scale color. The paint should be removed and the top polished like a mirror so the blocks can move freely and align to each other.

Which bring us to the pan support hanger, it's shafts and the support itself. They're as if not more important than balance shafts and blocks.
http://oi60.tinypic.com/25gruxx.jpg

The pan support hanger vee shafts should be sharp, the hanger end loops must be parallel to the beam with minimum outside to outside clearance on the end of shaft nubs. The center of the end loop must be centered on the center of the beam. The 'hook' on the pan support should be clean and polished. A pan that seems to oscillate next to forever is a very good thing!

Just a important keep the scale covered and clean the bearings, vee shafts and pan hanger support occasionally. I use rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip.

There are a few other things to look at and or do and correct but with those I those I mentioned your 10-10 should react to one kernel of extruded powder,~.02 gr and be repeatable across its entire weight range.

Bill

[m12lrs]

well I have an old scott parker tuned ohaus 10-10, a chargemaster, 2 gempro 250's and a ohaus yj102

I also have a lee perfect powder measure and a Harrell precision BR powder measure

what I do for long range stuff is throw charges, weigh and trickle (I have the omega electronic trickler) on one gempro and then check the weight on the second gempro. If they agree I feel the load is accurate. I can do this faster than my chargemaster and know it is much more accurate.

hunting and other range ammo I set the powder measure up with the gempro and throw charges. This is the fastest method.

[TRDFurgesson]

I use a 5-0-5 with a trickler.
Its dampening is decent in fact awesome really. Which is one of the primary (but not only) complaints against the Lee mentioned.

I would like.to do some volume vs weight tests. 223 is about the only throw and go loading I do. Reloder7 meters so smooth it works really well.

+1 on the 5-0-5, every electronic scale I have had has failed me