Building first stock

[bushwackr]

Hello all Hope I put this in the right place , If not sorry not intentional

I am looking to make a stock for my 112 being as I cant get a stock like I want for it. I was thinking using american elm lots of it here dead standing its rock solid, I think with the curly multi directional grain it would be quite nice. My only concern is the inletting. How should I approach this, I was going to use my chainsaw and make a blank and go from there. Has anyone used elm or knows what it looks like all shined up? Thanks

[2scars]

No, I haven't seen it, but I am all I for the results:)
I would think that besides the chainsaw, you will need a few files and rasps, some paper and a set of action studs for the action inletting. That is what I use for a semi-inlet blank. And don't be too hard on yourself, it will be bedded with compound in the end:)

[2scars]

Oh and a small selection of chisels, and a gouge.

[bushwackr]

Ok now being as I am using raw wood right out of the bush, is there something I should do with the blank to prevent cracking if the piece i select isnt totally dry. As far as action studs they easy enough to make or just buy a set

[2scars]

I bought mine, but I think you can cut the heads off of some appropriate length 1/4-28 bolts.

The wood will need to dry for quite some time, and I would go ahead and cut three possible blanks and see which one(s) survive drying. They may end up firewood if they split too bad. The splitting is the separation of the fiber and sap. there are some little electronic tools that measure the moisture in the wood, and there will a target percentage for all types of wood for working. Enjoy:)

[bushwackr]

ok i need to find one

[futurerider103]

Also you can have it inlet at Richards Microfit

[sharpshooter]

Elm would not be a good choice for a stock. The grain is too soft and stringy and it would be like whittlin' on a piece of rope.

[bushwackr]

Really I didn't know that they would do that.


I figured for as hard as elm is to split and pretty tough to cut it would be a good candidate for the project

[sixonetonoffun]

Think about how the elm splits. Sometimes you literally wind up with pieces resembling over cooked turkey.

Find a nice cherry tree. They produce some beautiful grains and grow straight as a norway pine.

[futurerider103]

Really I didn't know that they would do that.


I figured for as hard as elm is to split and pretty tough to cut it would be a good candidate for the project
They sure will. It's listed on their site

[FW Conch]

I used to burn the Elm that died on the fence rows. I didn't mess with anything that needed to be split. Too much hassle. Even when using a hydraulic splitter, the stuff didn't want to come apart. But when I wanted to stoke up the stove to hold for a long time, it held for 24 hours sometimes, even though it didn't put out as much heat as Oak, etc.

[Lynn]

Make a fiberglass stock.
Get several pieces of 1x6 pine shelf board 3 feet long and glue them together.
Draw a outline of the stock on the line and cut out your pattern with a jigsaw or Sawzall.
Now using a body grinder wood rasps and die grinder shape as desired.
Once you get it close cover the entire stock in Bondo.
Now sand for a full week adding back Bondo as needed.
Take Kiwi nutral shoe polish and cover the entire stock as this will be your release agent.
Cut your fiberglass mat or weave into strips saturate with resin and catalyst and put all over the stock.
Fiberglass sets up in 30-45 minutes time in normal weather.
Cover the entire stock except were the buttpad would go. Where the buttpad would go screw in an eyelet so it can hang up while drying.
Now after it dries split it lengthwise with a Sawzall its entire length and pull out the pine and Bondo.
What you are left with is two halves that are smooth.
Put the two halves together using duct tape so the bottom seam is 100% sealed.
Using your die grinder or a angle grinder cut away were the barrel channel and action would sit so it is 1/2-3/4 inch wide.
Put a thin coat of Kiwi on the inside and using surfacer resin available for $15 a quart at Tap Plastic and some pigment of your color choice paint the inside of both halves two or more times so there are no voids.
Fold both halves to the proper spacing and duct tape it together so nothing leaks including the buttstock this time.
The top of the stock will be the only opening.
Mix regular cheap resin and catalyst with micro spheres and pour it in a cup at a time until full.
If I could send pictures let me know.

[bushwackr]

Ok I will look into the fiberglass stock.

[sharpshooter]

Lynn, don't confuse these guys with all that hi tech stuff.......he ain't got the chainsaw started yet.;)

[Tom Thomson]

Bushwacker
If you are planning on using wood that you cut, be aware that standing dead trees are not truly dry. The way to avoid splitting is to remove the bark, seal the end grain (paint-wax-etc), bring it inside and let it dry for a long, long time.

[bushwackr]

the wood I was going to use was dead standing no bark on the tree.

Oh btw the saw has ran and blank cut but it doesnt sound like its worth doing so I might as well throw it in the stove. For the fiberglass its not rocket science same thing as building body parts, I would use carbon fiber cloth from fleabay as the first layer and then sheet glass for the rest. Just need to find a good resin, but I still have to make the form for it

[foxx]

I don't know.

Sounds too dang much like "work" for me.

Still, I am intrigued enough to wanna know how it turns out.