Issue fitting a Boyd's Featherweight for Model 11

[MOCraig]

Before I do anything else or call Boyd's, I thought I'd run this past the Savage experts here. This is my first post, although I've been reading the site for a while.

I ordered and received a Featherweight stock for a Model 11 in .243. It's a Christmas present for my 10-year old. The rifle is his, and he managed to kill his first deer with it this year. The stock arrived and looks great, so I went to fit it to the barrel and action tonight. Everything went great until I went to install the front action screw. It was a little short.

At first I thought all I needed was longer screws. Doing a little reading I see maybe that's not uncommon. But I don't entirely see how it will all work together, seeing as how the longer screw also means the magazine is that much further away, making the bolt and cartridges farther away.

So I put it together with just the rear action screw, and when I tried to get the bolt to feed shells, it won't. It'll move them, but won't feed them into the chamber.

I can see that the bottom metal isn't entirely flush - it sits deeper into the stock at the trigger end. Then I see milling in the stock that matches the width but not the length of the raised portion of the bottom metal. If the milling extended as long, it would sit flush and I assume the bolt would feed.

Am I missing something? Would longer screws fix this, or should the channel run longer?

Thanks!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v134/bow_hunter/E164E52D-2E2A-4F7B-B2B0-5684D122D6EC_zpsnoab7k3y.jpg

[foxx]

You need to relieve the wood in front of the front action screw hole, I am guessing. If it does not sit into the stock well / level after that, maybe remove more wood and bed it so its fits properly. THen, if necessary, get a longer front action screw.

Don't be afraid to relieve more wood than necessary. It's easy to add epoxy to build it back up and make it all fit well.

[MOCraig]

I believe you're correct. I'm disappointed because it seems the inlet in the stock is designed for the bottom metal of a bottom bolt release rifle, when this is supposed to be for a top bolt release.

Trying to figure out if this was a mistake by Boyd's, or if I'm incorrect.

[foxx]

Is it relieved for the top bolt release? I mean, up near the side of the action?

There are a few different bottom metal configurations for the frame. FAQ's has an article with pics about it. Not sure it's something I would expect Boyd's to get right. Savage is pretty hard to keep up with. And I don't expect much out of Boyds, they are good, but rarely "finshed" products. Inexpensive, but not everything they claim to be. I have come to expect it and just learned to "grin and bear it". Clear that piece out and it should be fine.

[MOCraig]

Foxx - after I read your post, I had to get the action back in the Boyd stock to see if it was indeed relieved for the bolt release. It appears to be. I guessed with the pricing of Boyd's that it wouldn't be a great stock. However, for what I needed for my son, and the relatively light recoil of the .243, I'm still hoping for the best.

I assume Boyd's will tell me the stock works for their "house model", and I'm on my own. I don't particularly want to purchase new bottom metal for this little project, so am glad to see you say removing some material to lengthen that inlet should work. No clue how I'll go about that, so I'll start small and work until it clears. Dremel tool?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v134/bow_hunter/12A3B8E0-E132-46B1-AE99-5066FB96C08E_zpswkktzkhy.jpg

[foxx]

Yes, I think the stock is "good enough" for most any shooter, short of the most competitive, precision long range shooters. What I meant is they are not always the best fitting and drop-in ready.

If it needs to be relieved, I would use chisels or a Dremel. For the sake of aesthetics, just be careful not to damage any wood that will show on the outside. Feel free to remove wood on the inside of the stock, or under any bottom metal, knowing that if you remove too much, you can simply bed the bottom metal with a $7 package of 2-part epoxy like JB Weld and basically make it a custom fit.

Personally, I don't worry about how my rifles look on the inside. All I want is a gun that shoots well and does not embarrass me when someone inspects it closely from the outside. :)

[MOCraig]

Ha - I hear you, and feel the same way. The inside isn't a problem. The outside, well, I hope I don't bugger it up!

Believe I'll follow your advice, and start with a chisel and work from there. I'll post how it ends up.

Thanks for the help. This is the first stock I've ever purchased, so this is new to me.

[olddav]

Forgive me for interjecting into a productive exchange, but be sure to use a sharp chisel and avoid cutting along the lines of the laminated layers.

[MOCraig]

Thank you - good advice.

[MOCraig]

Thanks for the help here. As an update, I used a dremel, cut the channel in question to fit and all went well. I initially continued to have some issues with rounds feeding, but only when a single round was in the magazine. However, I used a sanding bit, and took a small amount in order to lower the entire piece (took material from the opposite end of the channel), and now all is well.

I think I'll have a happy 10-year old Christmas morning.

[olddav]

That will insure a Merry Christmas!

[MOCraig]

Forgot to include pics - I do think it looks good and handles nicely. I'm glad I found this website - so much knowledge.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v134/bow_hunter/C57A4233-C052-4EA0-A9A7-D005EF5966AA_zps3rd8kvbd.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v134/bow_hunter/B815F4EF-34BF-406E-BBA2-5E8750C0F8F8_zpshyb2g2vm.jpg

[drybean]

Looks great, very nice