Accutrigger broken-need help

[jfksc]

I just got my 110 back from the cerakote guy....it turned out very nice, except for that when inspecting it the trigger is broken. The actual metal is broken and has a hairline crack in it. This is the actual trigger. The bolt cycles and the trigger mechanism appears to work, but I'm thinking that the trigger took a significant enough impact during shipping to break it, I'd like to have it either the whole thing replaced or have a qualified gunsmith check it out and fix the broken part and endute it's fully functional and safe.

Looking online it doesn't look like Savage sells the whole trigger assembly. Do you have to be an FFL to buy it? Somebody school me on the best course of action. Rifle is cerakoted, new stock came in....I want to get it working asap and go shoot it! Trying to avoid shipping it to savage.

Thanks.

[drybean]

can you post pics of the broken part

[jfksc]

Cannot post a pic now. The broken part is the actual trigger....where you pull with your finger. The silver portion that releases the seat is intact but the blued part (the actual trigger) is bent pretty badly and has a crack in it. Like I said it seems to work ok, but besides looking like hell and being bent I'm concerned about it since it must have been hit pretty hard in shipping.

[foxx]

Call Savage and order a replacement trigger. They may balk, but ask them to e-mail you a copy of their liability release form and they will send you one to fill out and return to them. No problem. I order these "Gun SMith only" parts all the time.

[jfksc]

Thanks. How hard is the removal and replacement of the whole assembly? Based on how damaged the trigger is, how much risk is there that the force damaged another component in the trigger group? Trigger still works, feels like the same pull weight as before, etc...

[foxx]

It's easy, but a little pricey if not necessary. I'd start by taking it apart and inspecting the pivot pin to see it's straight. THen, replace the trigger and see how it works. It'll either be good and smooth or bind a bit due to something being bent. If it all goes together easily I would not worry about it. If not, order all the parts, but you'll be okay.

[foxx]

start by removing the pivot pin that goes thru the trigger and safety blade. If you need to replace the bracket, too, then it takes a little more effort and care to not let the sear spring go flying... deends on whether you have the top bolt release or bottom bolt release. Top bolt release is easier to see how it all works together, but the spring has a tendency to fly when you remove the sear pin. I 'd suggest inspecting it closely before taking it apart and take lots of pics from different angles so you have something to refer back to when re assembling.

Having said all that, I still want to stress you should not have to do anything more than pull the TRIGGER pivot pin and replace the trigger, none of which involves the rest of the "stuff". Very easy. ANother reason to not replace more than the trigger at first.

[foxx]

If you run into trouble, pm me with your cell I can talk you thru it easier than typing it out.

[jfksc]

Foxx, can't thank you enough for the quick advice and possibly saving me time and money. I'll start with just the trigger. Looks like that part is also a smith only part so I'll have to call savage and see if they'll sell me one. I saw Timney and rifle basix models but I like the accutrigger and the added safety...this is my hunting rifle.

Thanks again. I'll post the build when it's done. Newer 110 in 270win with 114 bottom metal in new walnut stock. Cerakoted matte black with talley rings and Leupold scope. Very clean looking rig.

[Petre]

I could be mistaken but I believe there are reasonably priced replacement triggers by both Timney and Rifle Basix. Maybe others as well.

Only problem is I believe you lose the trigger/blade safety.

[jfksc]

I could be mistaken but I believe there are reasonably priced replacement triggers by both Timney and Rifle Basix. Maybe others as well.

Only problem is I believe you lose the trigger/blade safety.

I like factory trigger and the extra safety it provides because this is a field gun.

[jfksc]

I took the trigger off today and all of the other parts look fine. I was even able to straighten the broken trigger with a pair of channel locks, re-install it and cycle it fine....no binding of any kind and the trigger seems fine. I'm still NOT going to fire it in this state, but confident that once I order a new trigger (part# 105531) that it will be back in good shape. I also did a series of tests, slamming the bolt shut hard, safety on and off several times and gave it a good wrap on the recoil pad to see if I could get the sear to go off.

Thanks again for the help. Great wealth of knowledge on this site.