about to get started reloading

[doctnj]

I would like some input in list form hopefully of equipment to buy for reloading.
I have reloaded a long time ago with a single stage press but only 38/357.
Just finished putting my bench together yesterday just need to add some lights and additional shelving then its time to add equipment.
The press is not important to put on the list as I will either go with lee or rcbs single stage. I like to go slow and check every step.
The process is relaxing to me.

Now what I will be reloading.
I want to reload 260,6.5CM,338LM so die recommendations would be nice. Would like competition grade ammo when Im done.

So all equipment needed to get there is what I am looking for. I want to put a shopping list together and acquire it over a bit of time.

i.e. scales, trimmers, primer pocket cleaners, tumblers, shakers, calipers, etc etc. Oh and primer, powder suggestions as well as reloading manual. anything you think is important to have on hand that will actually get used to make very accurate target rounds in those calibers.

thought I would buy the "kit" from the press company as a basic set up then add the good stuff along the way but need to know the things I cant live without. With a wheel gun I didnt have to worry about a lot of things. If the case wasnt cracked and the bullet fit in the cylinder, it worked.

Thanks

[mikein]

I'd recommend that you start by buying at least two of the biggest, bestest, baddest reloading manuals (2015/16 Editions) you can find and read the first couple of chapters in each. They have pretty exhaustive lists of all the goodies you need. Buy one from a bullet maker and one from an equipment maker and cross-reference their list of essentials that they call out. Everything that hits your list twice is worth making note of and acquiring "along the way."

[doctnj]

any suggestions on manuals?

[mikein]

Whatever I suggest, someone else will definitely disagree, but you might start with Speer #14 and the most current Lee manual.

[LongRange]

what is your budget? money will decide what you buy...
lee if your pinching pennies
RCBS if your pinching quarters
redding and forster if you have money to spare...buy once cry once reloading tools are a life time investment
scale..i like a beam and scott parker is the man to get one from...digital gem pro 250 or the charge master
trimmers..LE wilson or the little crow WTF
primer pocket cleaners..K&M or 21st century primer pocket uniforming tool
tumblers..do yourself a favor and get a stainless steel tumbler
calipers...mitutoyo or starrett

260...H4350 or H4831sc CCI primers
6.5CM same as above
338L..i dont shoot one but rutumbo and H1000 seam to work well with fed215s or CCI250s

[doctnj]

Thanks LR thats what I was looking for. Money is fine so quality is my goal. I have read and watched a ton of videos and it seems like
1. re sizing the case
2. powder load
3. bullet seat depth
are critical for high quality repeatable rounds. So yes I will look at the Redding press. I may however go rcbs just for the press and the top quality on everything else. Thanks for a starting point. Im going to look at all your suggestions and make a shopping list.

[doctnj]

Ok looked at redding. looks good. In fact all of their stuff looks good. Which press should I go with. Is there a benefit to do the turret thing? I assume that is to keep everything set and just replace the entire die set all at once. Which level of press is the one I should get?

Then for an example. which dies would I need for 6.5 CM. and what level of die. I want the best but there seams to be so many options and I cand tell which one is the one I should go with.

Not trying to be a pain.

[barrel-nut]

There are so many choices out there in reloading equipment, most of them good quality as well. Which means that there are a bazillion differing opinions on what works best, and many of them are correct as well. I'll give you my .02 cents.
A good reloading manual, or four or five, is your most important piece of equipment. It's critical to understand exactly what happens to a rifle cartridge when you pull the trigger, and how you go about putting it back into the condition it was in before firing. A good manual will explain this in detail. I like the Hornady and Sierra manuals, but every one I've read has something to offer. If there is a bullet manufacturer that you think you will use most, buy their manual.
Case prep is probably the most critical aspect of making quality ammo. Buy tools that make this time-consuming process as painless as possible. The powered multi-station case prep tools are very good to have. Mine is the RCBS Case Prep tool, but there are many good ones out there. These make quick work of primer pocket cleaning and uniforming, flash hole deburring, inside and outside case neck deburring and chamfering, and case neck brushing, for example. You don't want to do all this with hand tools if you can help it.
A case tumbler with steel pin media, or a vibratory tumbler with treated corn cob media, is a good idea.
A case trimmer will be necessary. If you will be shooting any volume at all, a powered trimmer is nice. I have a Hornady hand-crank trimmer, which is functional but I do not recommend because it is a pain to adjust. I also have a RCBS powered trimmer that I use mostly, but I don't really recommend, for the same reason as the Hornady- it's a pain to adjust. Get something, whether manual or powered, with a true micrometer adjustment on it. As far as that goes, I wouldn't buy a seater die that didn't have a micrometer adjustment top as well.
You will have a hard time making consistent ammo if you don't have the means to measure your work. Get a couple of calipers, I prefer digital, but that's just me. The reason for having two or three is because you will end up attaching various case-and bullet-measurement tools to them, and it will slow you down if you have only one and you have to keep switching things on and off of it. My belief is that you don't have to spend big $$$ to get functional calipers. Heresy, I know, I can hear the flamers typing lol. My four Frankfort Arsenal calipers from Midway have served me well, and at around $25 each, I can't complain. Everything I've measured of known thickness with them has been right on. I realize that Starret or Mitutoyo probably make finer instruments, but mine work, too.
Get a good digital scale and a good balance beam. You will use the digital scale more, but the balance beam will be more reliable. Use one to keep the other honest.
You will want a means to measure case head-to-datum point (to set your dies and to know the headspace condition of your rifle's chamber). These can be caliper-mounted, or a device called the RCBS Precision Mic. (these are cartridge-specific and pricey, but I highly recommend them). Also, you will want a means to measure from case head to bullet ogive to track seating depth. You will also want something such as the Hornady Overall Length Gage (get the straight one for a bolt gun) to help with determining seating depths, to the ogive, in your rifle for various bullets. This is to be used in conjunction with the Hornady Bullet Comparator set, and a modified case in your specific cartridge to go along with the overall length gage. This is critical information. This will allow you to put exact measurements to all these critical parameters, and record them for future reference. Yes, you could get by with using once fired cases and smoke on a soft-seated bullet etc. but I prefer exact measurements that are repeatable and easily obtained.
As for dies, there are many good ones. If you are already leaning towards Redding, I'd suggest the Type-S full length bushing dies, and the competition micrometer seater. These can be bought separately or as a set. I also like the Lee Collet dies. Forster makes really good dies too, at a slightly better price than Redding. Did I mention to be sure to get a micrometer seating die?
You may be interested in a means to check your finished rounds for concentricity. There are various contraptions on the market that purport to give a reading on this important metric. Problem is, they all go about it from different angles. More directly, they support the case in different ways, which can skew the results. I have the Sinclair concentricity gauge, and the Hornady version, which claims the added bonus of actually being able to straighten the errant rounds. This is mostly bunk. Don't waste your money if you're hoping to straighten anything out. The concentricity gauge does work, though it often contradicts the Sinclair gauge due to the differences in the way they support the case. Still, either is better than nothing. There are others too, such as Neco and Redding. The Neco can measure many different things, I hear, though I have no experience with it.
Did I miss anything? Almost certainly. But it's late and my thumb hurts from typing so I'll call that a start for now. Feel free to pm me with questions if you wish. And again realize that there are a multitude of good equipment choices out there. Much of it comes down to personal preference. Good luck!

[LongRange]

Ok looked at redding. looks good. In fact all of their stuff looks good. Which press should I go with. Is there a benefit to do the turret thing? I assume that is to keep everything set and just replace the entire die set all at once. Which level of press is the one I should get?

Then for an example. which dies would I need for 6.5 CM. and what level of die. I want the best but there seams to be so many options and I cand tell which one is the one I should go with.

Not trying to be a pain.

barrel-nut nailed it pretty well but ill add to his post just to confuse you a little more...if you have the money these things are the cat a$$ when it comes to precision
stick to a singe stage press...forster coax is the best press you can buy...i use a redding big boss 2

dies...in order...whidden gun works for dies...custom made and very expensive but a waste of money unless you have your own chamber reamer...forster...redding...i use both forster and redding and only slightly prefer the forster dies...i full length size every time so i sent my forster FL sizer in and had the neck honed so it dont over work the necks and had a set of custom expander balls made so i can adjust the neck tension

neck turning...primer pocket uniforming...flash hole uniforming...K&M or 21st century...i use all K&M tools...not sure how far you want to chase accuracy and there are a lot of different opinions on loading for accuracy but IMHO everything you can do to take inconsistencies out of your brass will lead to a more accurate load...i shoot a tight neck 260 with lapua brass so turning is a must

primer seating...i use the K&M tool with the gauge...but the 21st century and the sinclair are nice too...this IMHO is the most over looked and under thought part of loading.

like i said there are a lot of opinions on loading you just need to find what works for you and what you can afford.

[barrel-nut]

barrel-nut nailed it pretty well but ill add to his post just to confuse you a little more...if you have the money these things are the cat a$$ when it comes to precision
stick to a singe stage press...forster coax is the best press you can buy...i use a redding big boss 2

dies...in order...whidden gun works for dies...custom made and very expensive but a waste of money unless you have your own chamber reamer...forster...redding...i use both forster and redding and only slightly prefer the forster dies...i full length size every time so i sent my forster FL sizer in and had the neck honed so it dont over work the necks and had a set of custom expander balls made so i can adjust the neck tension

neck turning...primer pocket uniforming...flash hole uniforming...K&M or 21st century...i use all K&M tools...not sure how far you want to chase accuracy and there are a lot of different opinions on loading for accuracy but IMHO everything you can do to take inconsistencies out of your brass will lead to a more accurate load...i shoot a tight neck 260 with lapua brass so turning is a must

primer seating...i use the K&M tool with the gauge...but the 21st century and the sinclair are nice too...this IMHO is the most over looked and under thought part of loading.

like i said there are a lot of opinions on loading you just need to find what works for you and what you can afford.

^ More good info from LongRange right there. Most of us could go on for hours about this stuff. Not real sure how deep you wanna go right off, and don't think that you must have everything we recommended just to get started. These are just things that we've accumulated through the years, and found to be really useful. There are some things we've bought and found to be not useful too, or at least less than ideal. One that springs to mind for me is a kinetic bullet puller, the kind that resembles a hammer. Just say no. Do yourself a huge favor, spend about an extra $20, and get a Hornady collet style bullet puller. This resembles a die and mounts in your press, and uses the camming action of a collet and the leverage of your press to pull bullets in a very controlled and easy fashion, with no damage to any of the components, no spilled powder, and no cursing. Yes, you will need to disassemble rounds at some point, for various reasons.
Another important topic is case lubrication for sizing. There is really one clear winner here, and it's Imperial sizing lube, which is really more like a wax in consistency. There are other lubes, and many claim to be quicker, easier (aerosol cans), etc. They work ok, but go ahead and spring for a stuck case removal tool kit if you go with these, because you will need it.
Long Range is right about primer seaters too. Any tool which allows you to measure your work, via a dial or other readout, is preferable to doing something by feel only. That being said, hand primers such as the Hornady, Sinclair, or even the Lee, allow you to feel primer seating effort, which is preferable to seating primers with the press, which provides very little feel. Feedback from the tool will tell you when your primer pockets have become loose as a Hollywood reality starlet, and allow you to remove them from service before they present unpleasant leakage problems.
Get several case holder trays in the size of your cases, which is .308-class for your .260 and 6.5. You will want more than one.
A powered powder measure is nice, but not necessary. A good manual powder measure, such as the Redding or even the Hornady, coupled with a "micrometer" adjusting attachment, will serve you well. The micrometer description is a misnomer, but again, if you can have a means to repeatability via measurement, you're better off. Also a powder trickler is required equipment. Use the measure to throw a slightly light charge, and trickle up by hand using the trickler into a pan on your scale.
That's all for now. I'll probably be back with more lol.

[doctnj]

I am replying before I read the very last post. So update. I ordered three manuals today. Nosler, Berger, and Sierra. May have goofed up by not getting a lee or rcbs etc but can always get another.

Now I am about to pull the trigger on a press. The Redding big boss 2. Now before I go with a die set I have a couple of questions and if it is answered in the last post, sorry, anyhow, I have been reading and watching videos and have heard two trains of thought. One is full length size every time. the other is neck only and body size every few firings or when starting to be hard to chamber. Im leaning toward every time. Does that add any fatigue to the metal to be sized more often?

Definitely think I want a case prep station for trimming etc. So I am trying to compare those right now as well as powder measure/scales like the charge master.


going to have to string this out at least a little but I want the good stuff. Just bought two new rifles this month and a new gun safe, and built a workbench and lights etc etc. I may have to sell a kidney. lol


One more question for now. Ill have millions. Comparators(sp) there are simple ones that go on a caliper and really cool ones that use bushings in a die with a dial. What direction should I go there? and brand suggestions. I have looked at the redding. I see where they are used to check neck set back but also seating depth? I know I will understand it more when I have it in my hands.

[doctnj]

what about the Hornady lock n load trimming station. I saw a hand crank trimmer, now Ill have to go back and find it. Think it had a micrometer of sorts on it. Cant tell from the pic but was wondering if the Horady has some sort of measuring capability or ability to set the amount of trim.

[Kadams1563]

Has no one mentioned the CO-AX? Arguably the BEST single stage press on the market? Buy that press and get the best off of the line.

[LongRange]

Has no one mentioned the CO-AX? Arguably the BEST single stage press on the market? Buy that press and get the best off of the line.

i did.

[Kadams1563]

i did.

oops. Just went back and read your post. I just missed it the first time. I was like SURELY somebody did.

[LongRange]

i am replying before i read the very last post. So update. I ordered three manuals today. Nosler, berger, and sierra. May have goofed up by not getting a lee or rcbs etc but can always get another.

All good books

now i am about to pull the trigger on a press. The redding big boss 2. Now before i go with a die set i have a couple of questions and if it is answered in the last post, sorry, anyhow, i have been reading and watching videos and have heard two trains of thought. One is full length size every time. The other is neck only and body size every few firings or when starting to be hard to chamber. Im leaning toward every time. Does that add any fatigue to the metal to be sized more often?

Good choice on the press...the coax is supposed to be the best...at some point your going to have to fl size so why not just do it every time and keep things consistent...and no there is no proof that fl sizing fatigues brass just a lot of opinions

definitely think i want a case prep station for trimming etc. So i am trying to compare those right now as well as powder measure/scales like the charge master.

I use and le wilson trimmer and imho the best...lyman case prep express comes with all the tools...i only use mine to chamffer necks...scoot parker for a beam scale...gempro 250 for a digital...a lotta guys love the charge master i returned mine after 2 weeks


going to have to string this out at least a little but i want the good stuff. Just bought two new rifles this month and a new gun safe, and built a workbench and lights etc etc. I may have to sell a kidney. Lol

sell one of your kids like i did


one more question for now. Ill have millions. Comparators(sp) there are simple ones that go on a caliper and really cool ones that use bushings in a die with a dial. What direction should i go there? And brand suggestions. I have looked at the redding. I see where they are used to check neck set back but also seating depth? I know i will understand it more when i have it in my hands.

just get the hornady lock and load...simple and inexpensive


what about the hornady lock n load trimming station. I saw a hand crank trimmer, now ill have to go back and find it. Think it had a micrometer of sorts on it. Cant tell from the pic but was wondering if the horady has some sort of measuring capability or ability to set the amount of trim.

answered above

[LongRange]

oops. Just went back and read your post. I just missed it the first time. I was like SURELY somebody did.

someday when i grow up im going to sell my big boss 2 and buy a coax lol

[Kadams1563]

Yea I have one in the box. Gotta wait for christmas HA! I'm just wondering if I should just get the necessary stuff to load on my XL650 instead.

[doctnj]

well crap. looked at the co-ax. Now I dont know what to do again..Thanks..lol
will it accept any type of die? Can I still use redding dies? I thought I had a number of things picked out

[Kadams1563]

Yes you can use the CO-ax with most Redding dies. From what I have read they are the best single stage to buy. I have a friend that has been reloading for 600 yard open sight competitions for a very long time and he swears by it. I believe his is a bonanza which is what the Forster used to be branded. I have not personally used one yet(have one waiting for Christmas) but I'm excited to say the least. There are a few videos of them and they make some of the best ammo you can get.