shooting intervals between annealing and proper annealing

[LongRange]

and seeing some of your posted targets it isn't luck that is needed.

what would you say is needed?

[rjtfroggy]

For the other competitors to have bad days. lol
On a serious note maybe just maybe a small tweak on your seating depth or just a little less velocity otherwise they are very good for the discipline you are shooting. Remember I DO NOT shoot long range or your style of shooting so I could be way off base here.
In the style I shoot horizontal is typically seating depth and vertical is velocity( up too much, down too little).

[LongRange]

For the other competitors to have bad days. lol
On a serious note maybe just maybe a small tweak on your seating depth or just a little less velocity otherwise they are very good for the discipline you are shooting. Remember I DO NOT shoot long range or your style of shooting so I could be way off base here.
In the style I shoot horizontal is typically seating depth and vertical is velocity( up too much, down too little).

LOL...agreed...the thing with me is i post the good with the bad i dont just post the one hole groups which both of my rifles will shoot and i am always looking to improve so not all my targets look like shot gun blasts believe it or not.
after my F-open match saturday im going to play with seating a little first then neck tension...all my shot broke clean but were drifting high and low in and out of the X-9 and 10 ring.

my apologizes as well to Nandy for taking your tread off topic

[rjtfroggy]

Do a search but IIRC " if the sun is up aim low, if the sun is down aim high."
On Sat. with full sun I was a little high in the 10 ring when it went to full cloud cover I dropped 3 shots low just out of the 10 ring (lost the match because of it) ended up clicking 2 up and went back to dead center.
In comp. every little thing counts.

[foxx]

I know in long range outdoor target archery, on a bright sunny day, if a cloud happened by, it affected your shot left or right (can't remember which way). It seems hard to believe, but it's true. Tell that to a novice shooter that does well just to get 1/2 of his arrows into the 4 inch ten ring at 90 meters and you're gonna mess him up.

I also suspect that different rifles will need different annealing practices. If it's a tight chamber, the brass is less likely to get over worked, therefore it will not NEED to be annealed as often.

I say if you suspect your brass will shoot better after annealing, try it. If it helps, try it more often. If you enjoy it, anneal twice just for good measure. ;) Consistent neck tension and load development, etc. never hurt anyone.

[LongRange]

Do a search but IIRC " if the sun is up aim low, if the sun is down aim high."
On Sat. with full sun I was a little high in the 10 ring when it went to full cloud cover I dropped 3 shots low just out of the 10 ring (lost the match because of it) ended up clicking 2 up and went back to dead center.
In comp. every little thing counts.

it was over cast,cool and very very light winds all day...basically a perfect day so none of that came into play which leads me to believe one of 4 things...neck tension,seating,charge weight or primers...my ESs are a little higher than i like and i think it maybe the primers but i will start with neck tension + and - .002...then seating farther off the lands as ive already been closer...then a primer swap...if none of that improves my ESs i will work my change weight .2gs both ways...im 99% sure its one of the 4 and leaning more toward the primers.

[yobuck]

First my apologizes to Nandy for taking this some what off topic.

Yobuck reading your posts and seeing we are about the same age I would venture to guess we were taught the same thing when younger. That being if you can hit a six inch pie plate 5 for 5 you are good enough for hunting deer, then it was hit a 4" pie plate, well you know what I mean.

Well when i first tried joining here they told me i was too old. lol So next time i lied about my age. If the age listed for you is accurate, im affraid im 17 years your senior.
Years ago i shot hunter class matches in the old Issac Walton league at York PA. I liked that better than group shooting. Im not really disiplined enough for competetion in any serious
way.

[rjtfroggy]

Longrange one thing at a time, other wise you chase your tail. When I found the right load for this 243, my chrono was showing 2888-2892 for a 15 shot string and I was right at the mid point according to Berger, so I stopped right there, 5 shot groups @ 100 were 0.162-0.165 but now after 1000 shots they have opened up into the upper 0.2's. I only use CCI large rifle primer and IMR 4895, appears to work for me.

Yobuck when I catch up to you, God willing, I hope I can remember how to get into the safe never mind how to shoot.

[LongRange]

Longrange one thing at a time, other wise you chase your tail. When I found the right load for this 243, my chrono was showing 2888-2892 for a 15 shot string and I was right at the mid point according to Berger, so I stopped right there, 5 shot groups @ 100 were 0.162-0.165 but now after 1000 shots they have opened up into the upper 0.2's. I only use CCI large rifle primer and IMR 4895, appears to work for me.

while i havent been loading as long as a lot of you guys i have things figured out...i know one thing at a time...i went out last night after work and shot 15 rounds over the chrony...1 5 shot group and one 10 shot group with BR-2s and still higher than i like ESs so that eliminates primers for the most part...next will be neck tension..then seating depth...then powder charge...if it dont shoot well enough ill go back to H4831sc...im playing with H4530 right now which has never shot as well as 4831 in any of the barrels ive shot but i have about 17lbs of it...if it dont produce saturday ill trade it off.

[yobuck]

[QUOTE=rjtfroggy;

Yobuck when I catch up to you, God willing, I hope I can remember how to get into the safe never mind how to shoot.[/QUOTE]

Well look at it this way, you already have answers to things many others will spend years looking for.
As for the safe, you will be just fine so long as a 30 year old isnt standing behind you humming while your concentrating on opening it. lol

Years back the max scope power for the hunter class score matches was 6x. Is that still the case?
I used a Weaver T6 on a tuned up Rem 700 varmit in 6mm rem.

[rjtfroggy]

Yes 6x scope and no more than 10 lbs. for the entire set up.

[geargrinder]

I saw the video but outside of a couple of captions there is not much info.

Sorry, I've been away elk hunting.

There's not much to elaborate on. Lee lead pot, molten salt (potassium nitrate), a gadget to hold the necks at the proper depth in the salt.

I use a high temp thermometer to get the salt set at the proper temp. Then I just get into a rhythm that gets the neck to the color that makes me happy. Makes my brass look like factory Lapua.

[Nandy]

Sorry, I've been away elk hunting.

There's not much to elaborate on. Lee lead pot, molten salt (potassium nitrate), a gadget to hold the necks at the proper depth in the salt.

I use a high temp thermometer to get the salt set at the proper temp. Then I just get into a rhythm that gets the neck to the color that makes me happy. Makes my brass look like factory Lapua.

did you got one????

Back to the gadget....
Keep in mind I am trying to recreate what you do..

What is the proper temp for the molten salt? do you go use 750?

[geargrinder]

No, they were a little scarce. I saw 5 bulls in a week and a half. The only one I saw twice was about 365" but wouldn't let me inside 400 yards. Way outside my muzzleloader's range.

Gadget:

Mine is a little more simple than the one in the video.

I used a large flat plate that covers the top of the pot. It has two opposing holes sized for my largest case. In the middle is a small hole for a long machine screw that holds another plate submerged into the salt. I use a wing-nut on top of the top plate to adjust how far the lower plate is submerged into the salt.

You want the top plate to cover the salt as much as possible. Pretty much to act as a heat shield.

Yes, I heat my salt to 750 degrees.

I can use my bare fingers to place and remove all but my shortest cases- 300 blackout I use a pair of needle nose pliers. The case heads aren't annealed, they are just too close to the super hot top plate.