Trying to set it up need advice

[challacombe79]

Been shooting a factory savage 10 .243 w/simmons aetec 2.5x10 50mm with factory 100 gr rem core lokt for 20 years mainly deer coyote and hog. Tried putting it up and going remington in 7mm rem mag and had nothing but problems with the gun for 2 years (long story i wont go into right now). Pulled the model 10 back out and started killing again! I love this gun but wanted something new. I have always wanted to build my dream rifle but after extensive research and realizing that was not a possibility for me right now due to the lack of $$$ i am putting together plan B to try and get the tack driver i want.This is what i did, ordered new savage model 10 predator max 1(accustock and trigger) in .243, got vortex viper 4 to 16 lr 50mm, caldwell 6-9 bipod, wheeler scope mounting kit (lapping bar and torque wrench) talley rings and talked a uncle into handloading me hornady bullets. My new rig will primarily be used for coyotes that are called in. 400-500 yard max. What steps do you all recommend i do to the gun from break in and on to the new gun to make it as accurate as possible? I want as close to precision as i can get from a factory gun. thanks in advance for any recommendations

[Robinhood]

Trigger time and load workup using OCW or at the least a ladder test. Did I mention "quality" trigger time. A good bag may serve you better than the Caldwell.

[psharon97]

Factory guns can perform. The first thing I do is make sure the gun is squared away. I make sure the rings, mounts, scope, stock, tang, and myself are good to go. The tang and barrel should be free floated, the scope rings and mounts need to be taken off the action, use blue loktite, and tighten the rings and mounts back down. The stock should be completely free floated. Make sure you have enough clearance in case of flex. Since you plan on using a bipod, make sure the stock doesn't touch the barrel when the weight of the stock is on the bipod.

[big honkin jeep]

The mere mention of break in is probably going to start WW3 on any forum where it is discussed. Opinions are all over the place and everybody has one.
Personally I always follow this procedure that Savage Arms has on their web site and have some great shooting rifles.
https://savagearms.zendesk.com/entries/23573147-What-is-the-barrel-break-in-procedure-/
Yeah kind of a drawn out process but it works for me.
The rifle you have chosen should be a fantastic shooter right out of the box.
With that being said, tuning a load and finding the right combination of bullet brand style and weight, powder and charge weight, primer, overall length, etc is going to be the biggest accuracy improvement you can make to it and will make a huge difference unless you just get super lucky and shoot one hole with whatever you start with..
Each rifle has it's preferred load that are almost as identical as fingerprints so sometimes this can be challenging. I have found Accuracy loads as found in in the Nosler Guide (most accurate powder tested and most accurate charge weight tested) and the Sierra manual (accuracy load) have been very good place to start over the years. Though not perfect for every rifle just a good place to start. They also have tech support phone numbers that have been helpful to me.( Both Nosler and Sierra just google em up) There are good loads that will get you very good groups and great loads that will shoot bug holes. Just keep looking until you narrow it down to a great load. In my experience even the old flat back rifles are capable of astounding accuracy once you find that magic combination.
Good luck and enjoy your new rifle.