Better Accuracy - What to change 1st ?

[Monkeymaster]

OK
In your opinions, in any given cartridge, in any reload, what do YOU change 1st, 2nd, 3rd to get better accuracy ?
I am talking cartridge components only, not scopes, barrel brand, ect.
Powder type
Powder amount/charge
Bullet weight
Bullet type, boatail, spitzer
Primer
Brass
Seating depth/cartridge oal
I know there is a million combinations, but I was trying to get a census of what may be the 1st, 2nd, 3rd ect items to try to get "THE" load for any given rifle one may have.
Thanks

PS. I probably just opened up a magnum can of worms.

[foxx]

Well, first, I start with Lapua brass when I can. then,
Choose bullet style for the particular application (short, long range target, hunting, particular type of animal, etc.)

Then I seek a primer, powder. seating depth that will make that bullet do what I want it to do.

Having said that...

1.Powder, assuming the first one was measured and tested at specific volumes of sufficient variety to know it won't shoot.
2. seating depth
3. primer

After that, I check in with you guys to find out what the heck is wrong!

[yobuck]

I dont think there is a single set answer to that question.
I also think it varies depending on a particular cartridge.
For example, one of my guns is a large 338 in which the powder charge
will be from about 130 gr to about 140 gr. There are only 3 or 4 current powders
that can be used and theres little difference in any of them. There is only 1
primer, that being the fed 215 because its the hottest of all available primers.
And even that isnt always hot enough. So that leaves very few bullets and seating depth
as the major issues for accuracy with that cartridge. Larger cartridges are even more limited as for components.

[darkker]

Honestly it really depends on what you want, and from where you currently are. Are you at 2" groups at 100, and want to get to sub 1"? Or are you talking shaving a few tenths?

I'm assuming given the question you are generally talking 2" and under.
First thing to change is typically the technique and loader over components. Second is the consistency in charge volumes, last is OAL.

[Robinhood]

1 A reputable reloading manual. One that uses the bullet manufacturer you intend on using is desirable.
2 Bullet weight has to be something your barrel twist can stabilize.
3 Powder selection. It has to be a known powder for that cartridge and bullet weight.

Things you can do.
1 Brass prep and sorting.
2 Load workup in powder weight in increments that will not pass an accuracy node.
3 Some would argue you need to start with a uniform seating depth with ogive to base length often "touching the lands" being a good place to start. Depends on the Bullet.
4 Experiment with primers if desired result are not achieved.

[DrThunder88]

I've been sold on the OCW (http://optimalchargeweight.embarqspace.com) approach to determining the powder charge for my reloads. From there I'd be inclined to modify the cheapest thing first.

[Twinsen]

1. Trigger control
2. Cardio
3. Shooter comfort

I'm joking... but I'm not. I get silly accuracy out of guns I am comfortable with.

[huntin1]

If we are talking chasing accuracy in the cartridge alone, here is my list in the order that I look at things. I don't look much at bullet type as I am using boattails for everything. Cartridge OAL in my opinion is significant only for getting the finished round in the magazine, seating depth, or free bore, distance to lands, whatever you want to call it is more important to accuracy than OAL.

Powder type
Powder amount/charge
Bullet weight/consistency
Brass/consistency
Primer
Seating depth

Just my opinion, has worked for me.

huntin1

[yobuck]

1. Trigger control
2. Cardio
3. Shooter comfort

I'm joking... but I'm not. I get silly accuracy out of guns I am comfortable with.

Average shooters with average guns who pay attention to the small stuff will be the ones with heavy meat racks.
1 hole guns are nice, but also unnecessary for most of us. Minit of angle is still 10" at 1000 yds all other things being equal.

[eddiesindian]

Magnum can of worms?..........lololol Ive never heard it put quite like that. lololo

yeah you did........but its all good.

You,ll get some good answer,s. im sure.

[Twinsen]

Average shooters with average guns who pay attention to the small stuff will be the ones with heavy meat racks.
1 hole guns are nice, but also unnecessary for most of us. Minit of angle is still 10" at 1000 yds all other things being equal.

I agree. If the gun is decent and the shooting extrordinary, the results will be extraordinary.

[DrThunder88]

Magnum can of worms?..........lololol Ive never heard it put quite like that. lololo

That's a can with extra worm capacity.

[Haiku_Rodney]

I am a hunter and does not require exceptional accuracy. I am quite happy with 1" groups at 100 yds. I select bullet and powder combination that will give me the desired velocity. I then tweak the charge up or down for accuracy then play with the seating depth. This may not be the best way, but, it fits best with the criteria I look for in a load.

[stomp442]

I like to make sure the only thing I can blame for a miss is me. I don't stop load development unless I can hold half moa at any given range for 5 shots. 9 times out of 10 I can find a load a rifle likes with any given powder and bullet suitable for the case by simply adjusting powder charge and seating depth alone but regardless of it's a bench rifle or simple hunting rifle all the brass is sorted by volume, Trimmed, flash holes deburred and necks chamfered and deburred. The best loads start with the small things and the more uniform things can be that you have the ability to fix the more you can concentrate on things you can't fix like wind.

[LongRange]

I like to make sure the only thing I can blame for a miss is me. I don't stop load development unless I can hold half moa at any given range for 5 shots. 9 times out of 10 I can find a load a rifle likes with any given powder and bullet suitable for the case by simply adjusting powder charge and seating depth alone but regardless of it's a bench rifle or simple hunting rifle all the brass is sorted by volume, Trimmed, flash holes deburred and necks chamfered and deburred. The best loads start with the small things and the more uniform things can be that you have the ability to fix the more you can concentrate on things you can't fix like wind.

THIS RIGHT HERE!!! ^^^

start with quality brass and take out ALL the variables you can in the beginning.

[RegisG]

I like to make sure the only thing I can blame for a miss is me. I don't stop load development unless I can hold half moa at any given range for 5 shots. 9 times out of 10 I can find a load a rifle likes with any given powder and bullet suitable for the case by simply adjusting powder charge and seating depth alone but regardless of it's a bench rifle or simple hunting rifle all the brass is sorted by volume, Trimmed, flash holes deburred and necks chamfered and deburred. The best loads start with the small things and the more uniform things can be that you have the ability to fix the more you can concentrate on things you can't fix like wind.

Stomp442,
Excellent! Do you work up more than one powder to get its best grouping (charge & Seating Depth)? Or when you find a power that works, you stick with it for that gun?

Thanks,
Regis

[stomp442]

I usually just pick a powder that is known to work well in any given cartridge i.e. IMR 4064 for the 36-06 & .308 H4350 for the .260 or 6.5 creed or Retumbo for a 7mm or 300 win mag. Once I have found a load that shoots half MOA or better I just stop. I won't mess with it again unless I run out of powder and can't find what I want but that rarely happens.

[RegisG]

Great.

Thank you


I usually just pick a powder that is known to work well in any given cartridge i.e. IMR 4064 for the 36-06 & .308 H4350 for the .260 or 6.5 creed or Retumbo for a 7mm or 300 win mag. Once I have found a load that shoots half MOA or better I just stop. I won't mess with it again unless I run out of powder and can't find what I want but that rarely happens.