Cabela's Savage 12FV THREAD FEST

[CFJunkie]

$419.99 is the regular price.

I got both of mine for 319.99 but even at the full price it is a pretty good deal.
One of my buddies paid 259.99. Now that is a great deal.

[Robert Losekamp]

Cabelas/Bass Pro has an awful inventory management system. It's bad enough that deal from there get flagged by a bot on reddit prompting a message about their inventory issues. It's not just you dont worry!

[Texas10]

Yea, that gun is no longer on sale. I was at the B.P when it was and asked the counter person if I could order the model 12 target that was on sale and he indicated that I could not. Sounds an awful lot like the ol' bait and switch scam.

[jkv45]

Yea, that gun is no longer on sale. I was at the B.P when it was and asked the counter person if I could order the model 12 target that was on sale and he indicated that I could not. Sounds an awful lot like the ol' bait and switch scam.
Their "sale" system is definitely odd.

It seems there may be a few of a specific rifle in-stock somewhere, but in order to get it you have to buy it at that store. At least that's what I get out of it.

Not very realistic.

[kcb38]

One of my buddies paid 259.99. Now that is a great deal.
That is a great deal but believe it or not, I snagged mine for $204 between sale, rebate and discounted gift cards off eBay. Then saved $200 from XLR on a Halloween sale and $250 off the PST Gen II from Midway to top it off.
https://i.imgur.com/16KZDgL.jpg

[indianasavage]

That is a sweet set-up. I have two XLR Element chassis' on my match rifles, but my Savage 12FV .223 has a stock with DBM. You are making me want a third XLR for my .223.

[TommyD11730]

My new to me 12fv in 223 showed up today. Picked it up used from another page. Some quick observations...
The foregrip on the stock is less flexible then I anticipated. I was surprised though to see the barrel lug backs up to a shoulder on one side only. May have to address that.

When cycling a dummy round it hung up on the bolt face (extractor?) pretty good. When I cycled a live round I was surprised how tight the bolt was to close (sammi spec round). It also hung up but good on the bolt. Do you guys think replacing the BB in the bolt will help cure this problem?

[hamiltonkiler]

If you rack it slow it will hang up. Cycle that bolt back with a little more muscle which isn’t the right word, but firmer. The shell will come out fine.
Bed that front recoil lug with JB weld.

I put a little JB steel stick weld under my safety tang too.

So bed the stock and tighten down the recoil lug front action screw to 10-15# and let the rear float. Don’t put the trigger action rear screw in untill it cures.
Cheers. This is how I bedded my FV stock and the little .223 shoots little groups.


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[TommyD11730]

No matter how hard I worked the bolt, the round was stuck to the bolt face. I had to pry it off the bolt.

[Texas10]

No matter how hard I worked the bolt, the round was stuck to the bolt face. I had to pry it off the bolt.

Might be time to remove the extractor for cleaning while being careful not to lose the steel ball and spring. I work with a baggie over the bolt head to catch flying parts. Sounds like the extractor is jammed, perhaps rusted into the head? A good thorough cleaning will definitely help. Steel balls can be ordered by the 100's off Amazon. They're cheap.

The issue with the Savage extractor/ejector design on the 223 is that the fired cartridge slams against the upper bolt lug abutment as it's being extracted. This jarrs it off the extractor and leaves a dent in the case. There are aftermarket solutions available. Check out this one: http://www.sharpshootersupply.com/

I hope this helps.

[Robinhood]

Disassemble the bolt head. Do it in a box or plastic bag. Everything has a spring so the energy will send small parts flying.

Your looking for a functioning extractor and ejector. Also measure your bolt ace counter bore and you brass rims.

[TommyD11730]

One step forward, 2 steps back.
I fixed the ejection issue. The bolt face was clocked 180 degrees! Replaced the detent ball with a oversized one and it works perfectly.
However....
The rifle is intermittently fireing on its own with the bolt rotating to close. Not every time, in and out of the stock. It has a Timney trigger. After adjusting the sear 6 ways to Sunday, without success I put the accutrigger back in
Set it at 2.5 lbs and I can't get it to fire on its own anymore. The sear on the Timney has to me a worn spot. Hard to tell if it's factory but I doubt it.
So tomorrow I'll bring it to the range and rack the bolt over and over and over...

[TommyD11730]

Searched this forum high and low without a definite answer. Is there an actual torque spec for the stock screws?

[hamiltonkiler]

Searched this forum high and low without a definite answer. Is there an actual torque spec for the stock screws?

No.

I like mine at 15-60>>>>


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[TommyD11730]

No.

I like mine at 15-60>>>>


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Damn.... 60 inch pounds. I'm surprised the insert doesn't spin in the stock.
Thanks!

[Robinhood]

One step forward, 2 steps back.

However....
The rifle is intermittently fireing on its own with the bolt rotating to close. Not every time, in and out of the stock. It has a Timney trigger. After adjusting the sear 6 ways to Sunday, without success I put the accutrigger back in
Set it at 2.5 lbs and I can't get it to fire on its own anymore. The sear on the Timney has to me a worn spot. Hard to tell if it's factory but I doubt it.


I guess you figured out that the trigger needs to be preloaded against the sear for it to not trip on bolt close. Inspect the trigger sear surface. It should be sharp not rounded. The sear needs to be inspected also.

And you are right. If you do not have metal pillars or an aluminum chassis then 60 Inch/lbs is waaaay to tight. However if it does have pillars or is in a chassis then those numbers are close if you have the correct thread engagement.


So, pillar your stock.

[hamiltonkiler]

I’m pretty sure the FV stock and most savage plastic stocks are pillar bedded. Maybe not the old 110 series.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201028/1a34d6558a737bf6efbd055fe10a5d56.jpg

Filled that gridded area. It’s a solid chunk of JB weld and a pillar.


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[CFJunkie]

I did some testing with torque settings on my 12 FV in 6.5 Creedmoor (the same stock as the 12 FV) when I first got the rifle.
Turns out that 35 in.-lbs. is a good choice with the factory 12 FV stock.
I increased the torque to 45 in.-lbs. and the average group size grew by 24% using comparable bullets.
I can't imagine what 60 in.-lbs. torque would do to a 12 FV stock.

I eventually switched both my 12 FVs (6.5mm Creedmoor and my .223) to an Oryx chassis torqued at 60 in.-lbs. as recommended by Oryx and got almost 10% more improvement over the factory stock that came with the 12 FV set at 35 in.-lbs..

[TommyD11730]

I did some testing with torque settings on my 12 FV in 6.5 Creedmoor (the same stock as the 12 FV) when I first got the rifle.
Turns out that 35 in.-lbs. is a good choice with the factory 12 FV stock.
.

Was that 35in @ both front and rear screws?
Thanks

[TommyD11730]

I guess you figured out that the trigger needs to be preloaded against the sear for it to not trip on bolt close. Inspect the trigger sear surface. It should be sharp not rounded. The sear needs to be inspected also.
.

The Timney triggers sear was FUBAR on my rifle. Putting the factory accutrigger back in fixed the fire on bolt close =0

Is the accutrigger on these FV rifles the same on all accutrigger equipped Savages? Mine feels sharp/uncomfortable vs my buds 110 model.