Trigger Gard-Bottom Bolt Release Issues

[sawacs]

I am currently trying to finish up a 6.5-284 build and have ran into a couple of issues.

The build is based on a complete Savage factory 6.5-284. I simply removed and sold the barrel and plopped a CBI barrel on there instead.

Here is the issue. The portion of the stock inlet where the front of the trigger guard rests is 40 thousandths to tall and needs some material removed. The stocks was milled out with out taking into consideration the metal piece and has the spring attached for the bolt release: It just so happens that the metal plate with the spring is 40 thousandths thick.:p My question is can I remove the 40 thousandths from the front of the trigger guard instead of milling the aluminum pillar down? If I place all of the bolt release components into the stock, everything stops working as in safety, trigger etc... If I remove all of the bolt release components (bottom bolt release) the rifle functions just fine. In fact, I have thought about leaving the bolt release components out all together. When the bolt needs to be removed, it is very easy to get to the bolt release pin inside the stock.

The front of the trigger portion that rests on the pillar area has a channel that was built into it which happens to be around 40 thousandths tall. This is the part I am wondering if I can remove.

Thanks,

Shawn

[sharpshooter]

And it worked fine before?

[sawacs]

Sharpshooter, the stock 6.5-284 worked fine. The new hunting/tactical stock that I had built is 40 thousandths too tall where the front of the trigger guard resides and causes the rifle to not function with the bottom bolt release components in place. With the front trigger guard bolt tightened, the rear of the trigger guard does not touch the stock at all. If 40 thousandths were removed from the rear pillar, where the front portion of the trigger guard tightens against the pillar, the rifle would function just fine and the rear of the trigger guard would sit in the trigger channel like it should.

I am trying to figure out if I can remove 40 thousandths from the front of the trigger guard rather than the stock.

Thanks,

Shawn

[lrshooting]

So based on my quick skimming through your posts, what is the reason you would rather take material off the trigger guard? I wouldn't take material off the pillar... Then you also would need to remove material beneath the entire bottom metal unless the pillars stick up and the bottom metal only rests on those two pillars. Your cheapest and probably best bet is to take sand paper, rough up the surface that needs to be adjusted, and apply bedding compound to raise the surface of the stock. Then you can file it down and make it look like it's suppose to be that way. If you mill down that plate, you're gonna be out of luck if it doesn't work. It's better to add material and see if that works first instead of taking away something that you can't add back.

Of course this only works if you don't care about the finish of your stock or don't mind repainting. It does work tho, I promise. I'm in the middle of a rather large gun build right now and that's basically what I'm doing where I need it. Just make sure you get the surface rough enough and really work it in there. I take a dremel with a small drill bit and drill a bunch of tiny shallow holes at various angles to give a superb mechanical grip to the epoxy. Even in the case you don't like it, you can file it down and try something else. It's by far the easiest.

Next best is probably to mill them pillars down assuming you won't have feeding issues. My dbm had to be spaced right or it won't feed because of the magazine, but if you just have a floor plate and internal box, you shouldn't have a problem. If that messes up to, you can still bed the bottom metal back to where it was.

Again, id leave milling that plate as a last resort. You mill that thing down and there's no going back. They messed up the inletting, so you should fix the inletting. Not accept the inletting as it is and try to make other things work that shouldn't.

[sharpshooter]

Remove .040" from the pillar then...

[sawacs]

So based on my quick skimming through your posts, what is the reason you would rather take material off the trigger guard? I wouldn't take material off the pillar... Then you also would need to remove material beneath the entire bottom metal unless the pillars stick up and the bottom metal only rests on those two pillars. Your cheapest and probably best bet is to take sand paper, rough up the surface that needs to be adjusted, and apply bedding compound to raise the surface of the stock. Then you can file it down and make it look like it's suppose to be that way. If you mill down that plate, you're gonna be out of luck if it doesn't work. It's better to add material and see if that works first instead of taking away something that you can't add back.

Of course this only works if you don't care about the finish of your stock or don't mind repainting. It does work tho, I promise. I'm in the middle of a rather large gun build right now and that's basically what I'm doing where I need it. Just make sure you get the surface rough enough and really work it in there. I take a dremel with a small drill bit and drill a bunch of tiny shallow holes at various angles to give a superb mechanical grip to the epoxy. Even in the case you don't like it, you can file it down and try something else. It's by far the easiest.

Next best is probably to mill them pillars down assuming you won't have feeding issues. My dbm had to be spaced right or it won't feed because of the magazine, but if you just have a floor plate and internal box, you shouldn't have a problem. If that messes up to, you can still bed the bottom metal back to where it was.

Again, id leave milling that plate as a last resort. You mill that thing down and there's no going back. They messed up the inletting, so you should fix the inletting. Not accept the inletting as it is and try to make other things work that shouldn't.

The surface of the stock, where the front of the trigger guard rests, does not need to be elevated. No material needs to be added. The reason the trigger does not work correctly is because the portion of the stock inlet, where the front of the trigger guard rests, needs to be lowered by 40 thousandths not raised. Regarding milling the plate, I do not need to mill the plate and I would never try. In fact, the thickness of the metal plate that gets the bottom bolt release working is right about the thickness that needs to be taken off from the trigger guard or trigger inlet but not both.

The reason I would rather take metal off of the trigger guard is because it is very simply to do. I have bedded two or three of my rifles without any problems. However, I have never tried to remove material from a pillar and would prefer not to.

Everything works fine without the bottom bolt release parts installed so I think I am going to leave it that way for now. Since trigger guards are cheap, I am going to remove 40 thousandths from the front of the trigger guard. However, I am going to wait until after hunting season.:p

I could send the stock back and have the inlet adjusted but it is not that important to me right now.

In summary, the only question I am trying to get answered is can 40 thousandths be removed from the front of the trigger guard, rather than the pillar, without any ill effects.

[Robinhood]

you never said who made the stock.

[clintsrv]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/30/b9dc219f4a7048637dec3954e24ad273.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/30/e4fa875399191d3b562a57f9bbf200b5.jpg

I find this easier to operate than with original parts installed.

[sawacs]

you never said who made the stock.

The stock maker is irrelevent to the problem:cool: In actuality, I consider this problem my fault since I did not send in the bolt release parts in with the barreled action. I can see how easy it would be for something like this to be overlooked.

[sawacs]

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/30/b9dc219f4a7048637dec3954e24ad273.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08/30/e4fa875399191d3b562a57f9bbf200b5.jpg

I find this easier to operate than with original parts installed.

Clint, thanks for the photos. This is the route I will be taking for now. It is just too darned easy to remove the bolt without the bolt release components in place to worry about

Cheers,

Shawn

[sharpshooter]

The stock maker IS relevant to the problem. Little things like that they need to know. Make the change to the stock, not the hardware.

[lrshooting]

The stock maker IS relevant to the problem. Little things like that they need to know. Make the change to the stock, not the hardware.

Hey, thats what i said in many words :).


Although really sawacs, I dont think you should mill down your trigger guard...thats just my opinion though. I guess the way I see it is, what if I ever want to use that trigger guard on another gun? Then its going to be too deep if the gun is inletted correctly. Milling the pillars will be no different then milling the trigger guard except itll be the opposite.

[sawacs]

I agree that this problem is relavent to the stock maker when it comes to inleting the stock correctly. However, I should have said it is not relavent to this particular discussion and the question that was asked. I do not feel the need to identify the stock maker since the problem was created by me not sending in the additional parts for the bottom bolt release assembly.

The problem has been resolved and I do appreciate the feedback.

Cheers!

Shawn

[Robinhood]

Off topic but the anonymity of the manufacturer is odd with you accepting responsibility for the inlet issue. Do what it takes to fix it. Put a bottom release action in a H-S top release stock. Had to modify the trigger guard. I never was happy and should have put more effort into doing a better job meaning working the stock rather than the metal. The width was the big issue and I think I took .013 off each side of the trigger guard to get it too fit.