Long range zeroing

[powderburnz]

I'm new to long range shooting and just getting ready to bring my new rig to the range. I've got a mil/mil scope. Here's the reticle.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/htx1wvcjxl77pll/photo%20mar%2023%2C%206%2054%2014%20pm.png?dl=0


My question is if my intentions are to hopefully get out to 600-800yrds should I zero 5 or 6 sub-tensions above the center cross to use holdover instead of dialing?

[LoneWolf]

If your zeroing at the range you intend to shoot at its not really a holdover.
Zero at 100yds and figure out what you elevation adjustment is. It should be the same weather you stay at zero and adjust on the reticle or dial the elevation on the turret and hold center.
I started with and SWFA SS myself. I zero at 100yds and practice shooting both with the info dialed on the turret and with holdovers. It's good to be versatile.

[DrThunder88]

Where you zero, in terms of distance, is mainly just a reference point. All of your ballistic data will be in relation to that distance. Zero distance comes into play with point blank range, but if you're willing to work out your elevation, then that's a secondary concern.

I'm also not sure I understand what you mean by zeroing above the center of the crosshairs. Do you mean you're going to zero by holding the 5th or 6th mark (2.5-3 mils or 5-6 mils, depending on if you're counting the hash marks between diamonds too or just the diamonds) on the lower arm of the crosshairs on your 600 to 800 yard target? If you have already worked out your ballistics to the point where you know that's the elevation for a zero distance of—say—100 yards, I'd suggest that it would be easier to zero at 100 yards. If you mean you're going to be shooting at—say, once again—100 yards and adjusting the POI to coincide with the 5th or 6th mark on the upper arm of the crosshairs in order to put the center of the crosshairs on target at 600 to 800 yards, then you might be barking up the wrong tree or at least barking up the right tree backwards.

LoneWolf is right: zero the crosshairs (the center of the crosshairs, in case that's not clear) at 100 yards, calculate your elevation at the longer ranges, and then hold over the prescribed amount when shooting at those longer ranges.

[LongRange]

i zero at 200yds,dial for elevation and hold for wind...if i need to shoot at 100yds i just dial for it.

[powderburnz]

Well what I did was zero 100 on the bottom point of the monster black sub tension. My reasoning for this is to avoid running out of vertical turret travel. By doing this, in my head, I've "saved" 5 mils or so of turret rotations for elevation for greater distances. Kinda does the same thing as a 20 moa rail. Now for longer ranges I have the full vertical hold over option for almost all of the vertical sub tensions but also more adjustment from the turret. I'm open to ridicule.

[LoneWolf]

What caliber are you shooting? The SWFA SS line have a ton of adjustment.

[LongRange]

Well what I did was zero 100 on the bottom point of the monster black sub tension. My reasoning for this is to avoid running out of vertical turret travel. By doing this, in my head, I've "saved" 5 mils or so of turret rotations for elevation for greater distances. Kinda does the same thing as a 20 moa rail. Now for longer ranges I have the full vertical hold over option for almost all of the vertical sub tensions but also more adjustment from the turret. I'm open to ridicule.

the only problem i see is that you now have to dial for wind and its real easy to twist your wind turret the wrong way...i see it almost every match.

[yobuck]

As recent as the mid 80s there were (no) scopes other than a few target models like Unertle having target type knobs for dialing.
Most scopes talked about here didnt even exist and that includes Nightforce. Custom reticles designed around a specific cartridge
were all that was available for a hunter wishing to shoot long. Today the choices are mind boggeling. Id reccomend learning to zero
and dial a scope properly. Install the propper scope base that allows for the distance you plan to shoot. Holdovers are a good thing
for quick follow up shots when hunting following a (close) miss. Otherwise be taking advantage of the techknowledgy available and
dial the scope.

[powderburnz]

What caliber are you shooting? The SWFA SS line have a ton of adjustment.

.308

[LoneWolf]

So if you're pushing a 175SMK or similar bullet near 2700 it should be about 10-10.5 mils to 1000. You have plenty of reticle and elevation adjustment for that in you scope even with a 0MOA base. You can even use a combination of turret adjustment and holdover if you so wish. That's the ease of having matching reticle and turret adjustments. 0 at the most common distance you'll be firing at and adjust from there. Most do load development at 100-200yds, so they zero somewhere in there or straight on at 100.