Bed/pillar 110 CL series J?

[big saturday]

I would like to either bed or pillar my hunting rifle but am not coming across anyone else who has done this with this particular model. Looking for any information on what to do and what to avoid doing.

anybody try these pillars?

https://www.stockysstocks.com/savage-10-110-steel-pillar-sets.html

What about bedding? Is there a good tool to use to remove stock wood? not sure about a good bedding kit vs a do-it-yourself recipe that can be found at the hardware store...

I appreciate all replies!

-Bigs

[foxx]

Is that the walnut :American Classic"? Is it wood? As long as it's wood, it probably would benefit from a bedding job. If its plastic, I wouldn't bother.

To remove the wood, I just use a dremel. I prefer Devcon 10110, but something as simple as JB weld will work just fine. For pillars, I use Threaded lamp rod. It is cheap, readily available and easy to use. Cut a little long, grind to fit. Keep the top portion flat/level. No need to bevel it or curve it to the shape of the action... Your bedding material will do that for you. Keep in mind that the purpose of pillars is to prevent the wood or stock material from compressing under the pressure of the screw's torque, nothing more. The bedding is to offer support and prevent the wood stock from expanding and contracting causing binding against the action.

[big saturday]

Thanks foxx! Yup, it's a walnut stock. So threaded lamp rod for pillars, huh? Not sure where to find something like that. Guessing with an ID a little bigger than the original bolts? Then just overdrill the wood to allow them to fit?

[foxx]

Lighting dept of big box hardware store. It looks like brass, is used to repair table and floor lamps. You'll know it when you see it. THe internal dimension is slightly larger than the od of the screws... I install them then drill them out a bitwith a dremel so they are slightly larger to ensure the screws do not touch the sides.

Yes, drill the stock's screw holes so they are larger than the od of the lamp rod. anchor in place with the bedding material.

[big saturday]

OK thanks for clearing that up. I have a couple more questions:

About how much wood should I remove for the bed?

Any thoughts on floating the barrel? I've read that some people will wrap the barrel a few times with something like electrical tape, let the bed cure, then remove the tape to create the float. I suppose the same could be done for the tang. Not sure if the barrel lock nut is included in the bed, then float the barrel from there?

[foxx]

Just use one layer of tape under the tang. THe barrel can be wrapped with a bunch of tape to keep it in the center I have also used plumbers putty in the stock's forearm to support the barrel in the proper position. Same difference.

I relieve about an 1/8th of an inch. Nothing wrong with doing more than necessary, just be sure it's not so thin that the material cracks or lacks ability to prevent warping from the wood. Also, be sure not to run the relief so deep it breaks thru the outside of the stock. If its a light weight or sporter contour barrel, I don't bother bedding forward of the rear of the recoil lug. For heavier barrels, it makes sense to bed the nut and a lit bit further just to add some support.

[big saturday]

All right, thank you much foxx, I appreciate it! Wasn't sure if there were any tricks specific to this stock I needed to know about.