New Shooter, Newbie Questions, Stevens 110E

[foxx]

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/999220A.htm

[JohnnyWadd]

Well, if that's the case, I guess I need to try and bend it back before I try and replace it. Guess I just didn't feel like messing with it. We'll see how it goes. Thanks guys. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Also, the bases for the rings, are they loctited in there? They're a bear to get out, but mainly wondering about installing the new mount. And why does everyone say to use nail polish? I've never heard of that before. I guess it makes sense that it's not as serious as loctite, just wondering what the origin is I guess.

[pepper savage 111]

The bases might have been loctited in there. Seeing as how those aren't factory based. Try to heat the screws a little bit with a lighter. That should help to loosen them up. (Assuming the previous owner used blue, and not red, loctite.)

I've never used nail polish but I do use blue loctite. Never had an issue. Your new base should have hex-head screws so you can get the proper torque on them without worrying about stripping them.

[Bolthead]

Very nice. Big fan of the old classics. I agree with everyone about replacing the mounts and bases. I did go ahead and use see-through rings on my 111 so I could use the iron sights too if needed, but they are a good bit lower. As for the trigger, the stock trigger can be made very friendly with some tender loving care. Once I made sure that everything was as it should be, I replaced the .052 spring with a .040, made from piano wire. This worked well, but I plan to use .045 to bring the adjustment more to the center of the screw. There are some very good articles on the internet and in this forum about what can be done with the stock 3 screw trigger. But, as has been stated previously, make sure that you have a very good understanding of how the trigger works and how to test it before making any changes. One other thing to check is the clearance between the stock and the barrel. If it is free floating, you should be able to easily move a dollar bill the full length from the nut to the end of the stock. On my old 111, there was a raised portion right at the front end of the stock that was just close enough to make contact with the barrel as it got hot, pushing my shots up and to the right. Deep well socket and some sandpaper put a stop to that. Also check the tang where the safety is too, making sure that it has some clearance. One other thing, I use a slip on Limb Saver from Wallyworld that does a great job of making the recoil manageable. I'm not a big guy, but with that thing, I can shoot 180 grain all day, although I prefer the 150s. It even sort of tames my 8mm M48. OK, I have rambled on long enough, just enjoy the "new" rifle, and don't fight the addiction.

Allan

[JohnnyWadd]

Thanks for all the help guys. At the moment, I'm still trying to tweak the trigger bracket enough so the trigger will sit inside it square. When I put the pin through one ear of the bracket and through the trigger, everything is great and moves easily but as soon as I get it through the other ear it twists the trigger so it rubs on both sides. I guess I might try taking the whole bracket out and manhandling it.

I haven't really checked the clearance between the stock and barrel. Is it supposed to be free floating? I wasn't quite sure if it was supposed to be.

The slip on recoil pad is here along with the one piece mount. Everything is mounted up, just still messing with this trigger. Measured it at just over 6 pounds last night. Not great. Guess I at least have a baseline to work from.