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View Full Version : Savage 11 - please give me buying advice



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Doc7
06-28-2015, 11:48 AM
Congratulations! In my opinion, you made a great deal on a good hunting rifle. For your information, in case you consider aftermarket upgrades, it appears that you have a late model short action, detachable magazine, center feed, bottom bolt release, with the Accu-stock. Your rifle has a standard bolt head (.308/7-08/.243 family). It is sized for a small shank barrel.
The reason that Robinhood brought up the 9 1/2" twist is that it will stabilize the heavier 140 gr. bullets much better than the older 1-11" twist versions did. I would be reasonably certain that yours is the 1-9 1/2" version.
If it's shooting under an inch already, and you are happy with the scope, I would not change a thing. I would check to be sure that the scope base and ring screws are all tight. Also check that the action screws are tight. That stock is better than the typical "tupperware" models that we frequently complain about, because yours has an aluminum bedding and stock reinforcement block-hence the "Accu-Stock" name. If you like it there is no need to replace it.
If you get the urge to spend more money on it, I'd first look at replacing the scope rings, bases, and the scope itself, in that order.


Thanks very much for the advice and comments!

I do really like my rings and scope (Burris Zee Signature and Vortex Viper) especially for my hunting rifle purpose but I am sure my 5 dollar weaver bases could be upgraded. I torqued rifle action screws to 30 in-lbs after firmly seating the recoil lug and the scope rings and bases are all torqued per manufacturer specifications with Torx screws.

I think my first upgrade in the future might be a fiberglass / composite stock if I find that the current stock doesn't let me shoot to same POI when slung up, which I haven't tested yet.

That was about 5/8" 3 shot group with the American Whitetail 139 gr ammo but I am going to shoot several more groups this week to find out what a realistic average is. I am purchasing dies and components and plan on starting off with my once fired Hornady Brass from these rounds and the same bullet for developing the first loads. I have never reloaded before so I am going to start off "by the book" with my Lyman 49 regarding COAL, and doing an OCW test with regards to the charge weight increments. After i get to a load of reasonable accuracy I can learn about measuring distance to lands which is step 2 of OCW tuning. I am fairly hopeful that with the Lyman 49 COAL I can find a load plenty good enough for hunting regardless. The Hornady ammo from factory had a deviation of up to almost 90 FPS when I shot over chrono (not on paper) which is one reason I am sure I need to handload to obtain consistency.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/28/fb6408495ac3cc1791d46b2314fac0df.jpg

foxx
06-28-2015, 01:49 PM
Well, Doc, I will say this for you:

You got a great deal, you have obviously done your homework in regards to expectations with loads, rifles and the principals of load development. If, when you're "done" with load development (are hand loaders ever "done" with load development?), you can get these kind of results consistently under different environmental conditions, etc., you will have a heck of a deer rifle. My guess is you do. :) Have fun with it.

Doc7
07-04-2015, 07:56 PM
Full disclosure - my groups have been terrible since that first 5/8s group of 3.

I had cleaned it to bare metal before that group , and have done so since that group, with two radically different results. My plan now is to not clean copper again until I have fired a few dozen rounds to see if it comes back together.

rlwhitejr
07-05-2015, 10:57 AM
if yours does not have the clip you can get 10rd mags from Savage for it. I just replaced my bottom plate with one from Savage on my Model 11 VT and bought two 10 rds mags for less than a bottom plate from a 3rd party vendor. I cut the clip off the original mag and it works perfect in new bottom plate.