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View Full Version : How much gap do you have between rear baffle and bolt handle



missed
06-13-2015, 08:28 PM
How much gap? I think I'm fighting a primary extraction issue on the 22-250 that is aggravating the heck out of me. Of course first shot at the range today. No cleaning rod!!!! There is almost 1/8" between the baffle and bolt handle with it cocked. Brass is all full length sized, head space set with head space gauge. Loads are well below max.

drybean
06-13-2015, 09:05 PM
I would guess that your bolt body is out of spec.
the lugs on the back were your bolt handle bolts on were not cut deep enough

BillPa
06-13-2015, 09:22 PM
Just as a rough indication the bolt handle boss should contact the PE ramp when the handle maybe at it's mid point but its a rough guesstimate at best. BTW, you don't need a cleaning rod, a shim (credit card, folded business card etc) placed between the baffle and bridge will increase the PE, it moves the baffle closer to the handle.

I don't know what or what is the correct amount, I shoot for .070"-.075". I guess everyone has their own ways to correct it. Some glue a shim on the face of the baffle, I drill and tap two 8-32 holes in the baffle for two set screws, adjust them then use 242 Loctite to secure them. Right, wrong or otherwise I don't know other than it works and has worked for years on two actions.

Bill

missed
06-13-2015, 11:34 PM
Both the bolt bodies are from SSS. Im going to tear both the rifles down tomorrow and get to measuring.

Actually I'll get a good measurement on the gap tomorrow and see what they really are. I did put a factory bolt handle back on and the gap was less than the aftermarket one. I'll cut up a shim and see how that goes also. Hmm maybe time for a custom handle and rear baffle build. I have always hated how it hits the extraction ramp.



I'm sure mine is more than 70-75 thou it's at least 100 probably closer to 125.

It was hot in the shop and I didn't feel like dealing with it tonight. Got my ass tore up from some spiders this week and sweating with the spider bites is not nice.

BillPa
06-14-2015, 11:17 AM
Both the bolt bodies are from SSS. Im going to tear both the rifles down tomorrow and get to measuring.

Actually I'll get a good measurement on the gap tomorrow and see what they really are. I did put a factory bolt handle back on and the gap was less than the aftermarket one. I'll cut up a shim and see how that goes also. Hmm maybe time for a custom handle and rear baffle build. I have always hated how it hits the extraction ramp.

It was hot in the shop and I didn't feel like dealing with it tonight. Got my ass tore up from some spiders this week and sweating with the spider bites is not nice.

Maw(wife) got bit at camp by what the Doc thought may have been a brown recluse. She has about a 3/8" diameter shallow hole -scar in her shin where whatever it was got her. It took about three months until it healed completely.

The most accurate way to measure PE, with the barrel removed take two measurements from the receiver ring to the bolt head, one with the bolt locked to battery and a second with it unlocked pushed fully forward. The difference between the two is the amount of PE.

Of course if you don't want to, feel like or like me too lazy to pull the barrel this is one option.
http://i41.tinypic.com/14xctgp.jpg

Drill-tap two blind holes for 6-32 set screws, the one on the left as pictured needs to be higher to clear the spring-ball bore. Adjust the screws proud to correct the PE, measure they're protrusion then use 242 to lock them in place. Its a lot easier than shortening a bolt body, can be adjusted if need be using an allen wrench without tearing anything apart and if down the road you replace the bolt handle they can be re-adjusted or removed.

Bill

missed
06-14-2015, 02:48 PM
Thanks! I may go that route.

Just shoving shims in between the baffle and action I have 0.035" with a factory handle and 0.080" with the Glades armory handle. I think this is a large part o of the problem. I may go try to shoot this afternoon and see if it will extract with the factory handle. Either that or shoulders aren't getting bumped enough. I'm taking a cleaning rod with me this time!

CharlieNC
06-22-2015, 04:41 PM
A smith told me it should be .020 - .040" for good extraction

Robinhood
06-22-2015, 04:49 PM
Missed, Just for grins can you verify the Glades handle fully seats to the bolt body when you tighten the BAS. One of the aftermarket bolt handle makers addresses this on their website.

missed
06-22-2015, 10:29 PM
I did make sure its fully seated, I was hoping that was the problem. I wasnt that lucky. I have two of the handles and the one that is on the other rifle is thicker than the one that was on this rifle. I put the one off the 308 on the 22-250 and it worked just fine, along with the factory one. It sucks that I have been fighting the extraction issue off that problem the whole time, just have not had enough time to address it and fix it.

Sticking the 40 thou shim between the baffle and action it worked just fine.