Detailed instructions on how to carve a Savage 99 stock and forearm

[Lee Davis]

I have been carving new stocks for my 6 Savage 99 rifles. I have an 1899B, the octogon barrel model, a 1899H Takedown in 22HP, a .303 Model F Takedown, and a .300 Model G Takedown. I no sooner get a pair carved for my own rifles before it gets sold, or given to a fellow '99 enthusiast. So, I have been gearing up to produce more stocks. I have gotten many questions over the years on how to carve a shotgun buttstock (and forearm), and so I have worked up a set of detailed instructions (with photos!) on how to carve a Savage '99 pair (it would be the same for any rifle or shotgun that has a separate butt stock). If you want a copy of these instructions, I would be happy to send them to you, no charge. It shows how to drill the bolt hole through the stock in advance, and then how to center on that for the carving. When the stock is finished, the through bolt aligns with the receiver, every time. Whether carving a stock by hand, or with a machine, this will show you how to do it right. Also includes instructions on setting up and carving a forearm. I can send it in the form of a pdf file to your email address. Just write me and request it. No charge. Lee Davis radarcarve@comcast.net

[Fireball]

Nice gesture sir. Message sent. There's nothing fast or easy about a Savage 99 wood job.

[Lee Davis]

Yes, you are right... there is nothing fast or easy about a Savage 99 stock... well, except that this procedure makes it a breeze. Maybe that is a bad choice of words, for it is not quite a 'breeze', but it can become very easy. In all my years of carving, I find that the Savage 99 stock is the toughest thing I have done. I used a Carving Duplicator in my furniture making business, but that is easy, since accuracy is not needed. But with the '99, a few thousandths of an inch can make a difference. I am very picky, and it took me a few forearms before I was satisfied. I am developing a burn pile of walnut blanks! If you try to hurry it, especially along the edges, a defect is bound to crop up. The direction of travel is important, for one direction along an edge can potentially throw splits out, ruining the blank. The other direction is very smooth, but the bit wants to drag itself forward, often violently. The key is to hold it back and let the bit take it slowly. Bouncing is also a killer, for it will dimple the new piece if you are not careful. Once you learn to manage the cutting, and take it at a slow, methodical pace, it really does feel like a breeze.

[Fireball]

I got your email and I thank you! I haven't had opportunity to give it the time it deserves but look forward to it. I once carved a SxS double shotgun stock, and let me tell you that was a fiasco!

[Jeff518]

Sign me up! I also appreciate the generous gesture and will email you directly.
Thanks!
Jeff