Blind mag removal and bedding

[Texas10]

I finally got around to bedding the action in my BVSS yesterday and wanted to pass along some information regarding removal of the center feed blind magazine.

The removal of this magazine has been written about before, but at least in the case of my particular (new) gun did not go as advertised. The "silver tab" that holds the magazine in place and serves as the rear action mount base has an integral tang that protrudes out and digs into the wood to grip and hold the magazine in place. Simply prying up on the silver tab is not so easy, and once accomplished tore out a portion of the stock wood and bent the tab in the process.

This was easily repaired during the bedding process but it did make the whole process a bit of a head scratcher at the get-go.

I used Devcon 10110 Steel filled epoxy as the bedding material, and Kiwi neutral colored shoe polish as a mold release. Worked like a charm :cool:

Thanks to all you guys for your great advice! I hope to take it out to the range this weekend to try out the bedding.

[J.Baker]

And that's why I don't recommend trying to pry it out by putting a screwdriver under the rear hanger bracket (aka Silver tab). The RIGHT way to do it is to insert a large flat-blade screwdriver into the magazine itself so the blade catches on the magazine feed lips. Work it from the back, then the front, then the back, etc. until you've got it out.

[Texas10]

Shot it today for first time since bedding and WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT. Not only were groups measurably smaller, but groups remained tight as barrel heated up in the days 95 degree summer temps.

One thing I want to pass along about the stock to barrel fit before bedding. I noticed that when using the Savage recommended torque sequence on the pillar screws, I would first tighten the front screw, and then while torquing the rear screw I could feel the barrel move upwards if I held the rifle with the butt plate on the bench and my left hand over the barrel and stock fore end. In other words, there was movement between the two as the rear screw was torqued. This indicated to me that the pillars where not in the same plane and the front pillar/bed was canted in relation to the rear. This was primarily where I focused my attention when bedding the stock and after the bedding, the rear screw now comes tight without the creaking and groaning it did before, and no more movement between the barrel and stock.

[foxx]

Shot it today for first time since bedding and WHAT AN IMPROVEMENT. Not only were groups measurably smaller, but groups remained tight as barrel heated up in the days 95 degree summer temps.

One thing I want to pass along about the stock to barrel fit before bedding. I noticed that when using the Savage recommended torque sequence on the pillar screws, I would first tighten the front screw, and then while torquing the rear screw I could feel the barrel move upwards if I held the rifle with the butt plate on the bench and my left hand over the barrel and stock fore end. In other words, there was movement between the two as the rear screw was torqued. This indicated to me that the pillars where not in the same plane and the front pillar/bed was canted in relation to the rear. This was primarily where I focused my attention when bedding the stock and after the bedding, the rear screw now comes tight without the creaking and groaning it did before, and no more movement between the barrel and stock.

Well, there you go! That's the point, or objective, right?

As I understand it, the goal of bedding is to prevent or eliminate binding of the action in the stock. Everything you described before the bedding job indicated there was binding or inconsistence tension along the length of the action. If bedded correctly with proper tension while it sets, there will not be any binding or inconsistent tensions on the action when done. It sounds like you did well. Another thing I strive for is the action screws. I believe if they spin freely while inserting them, then suddenly STOP when tight, (as opposed to gradually tightening till you think it's safe to stop) you can be fairly confident there's no binding.