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limige
05-26-2015, 07:47 PM
I was gonna say don't worry about the nut just unscrew the barrel. also a small cutoff wheel does the job to split the nut but you have to notch into the lug as well. I did one like that as well.

but congrats your onto the assembly, much easier job

genesis2214
05-29-2015, 07:04 PM
Thanks for all the good advice. I got a Photo Bucket account and can now add links for my photos. Here is a close-up of my barrel-nut-splitting hardships.

http://s429.photobucket.com/user/genesis2214/media/FDBE3C98-CFB2-4098-9C8E-65C7FEAD3191_zpscvulq9gh.jpg.html

But here is the original receiver with the original recoil lug and new ER Shaw barrel and slotted barrel nut.

http://s429.photobucket.com/user/genesis2214/media/026397BC-21E8-4A69-8C9E-5D863AC5605D_zpsd1uwzmuq.jpg.html

I will let everyone know how it shoots, if it EVER stop raining in North Texas.

genesis2214
05-29-2015, 07:06 PM
Yep, Photo Bucket is cool.

missed
05-29-2015, 07:09 PM
Thanks for all the good advice. I got a Photo Bucket account and can now add links for my photos. Here is a close-up of my barrel-nut-splitting hardships.

http://s429.photobucket.com/user/genesis2214/media/FDBE3C98-CFB2-4098-9C8E-65C7FEAD3191_zpscvulq9gh.jpg.html

But here is the original receiver with the original recoil lug and new ER Shaw barrel and slotted barrel nut.

http://s429.photobucket.com/user/genesis2214/media/026397BC-21E8-4A69-8C9E-5D863AC5605D_zpsd1uwzmuq.jpg.html

I will let everyone know how it shoots, if it EVER stop raining in North Texas.
Supposed to dry up after tonight! The road to the range I go to is gone, can't even get a 4x4 truck down it.

foxx
05-29-2015, 07:48 PM
So what did you do with the damaged threads on the barrel?

Sorry, I did not see this till now.

The threads were cut vertically across them, a clean cut in one or two places. No need to do anything with them. Now, I might have taken a dremel's small grinding wheel to them to knock-off some burrs, but I don't remember it that way. I did that with another barrel that was damaged in shipping (dropped out of the box and hit the concrete on the breech end, dinging-up the threads a bit. It was no big deal to just grind those spots off a little. There's still plenty of threads to do the job.

Robinhood
05-29-2015, 07:53 PM
Why is the barrel toast?

genesis2214
05-29-2015, 08:07 PM
My gunsmith looked at it and said the threads were too damaged to fix.

Robinhood
05-29-2015, 09:25 PM
Something must have happened after you took the picture.

limige
06-01-2015, 06:09 PM
on photobucket...
copy and paste the imagine link I changed some [ to ( to help show it
(URL=http://s429.photobucket.com/user/genesis2214/media/FDBE3C98-CFB2-4098-9C8E-65C7FEAD3191_zpscvulq9gh.jpg.html]
and it will display the picture
[IMG]http://i429.photobucket.com/albums/qq16/genesis2214/FDBE3C98-CFB2-4098-9C8E-65C7FEAD3191_zpscvulq9gh.jpg


when I cut mine I used an old cutoff wheel so it was small like 1" diameter. I used gorilla tape to protect the action and made my cut perpendicular to the action parallel to the barrel... I lightly grinded a groove working down until you see the tops of the threads. you have to do both sides to peel them off with a chisel. I have years of experience with die grinders and cutoff wheels though

foxx
06-01-2015, 08:38 PM
If you want to get rid of it I need a tomato stake and will pay shipping.

No kidding. That barrel's still good.

Robinhood
06-01-2015, 11:28 PM
Offer to buy, sell, or trade outside of the classifieds

Actually, non of the above but I respect the implication.

foxx
06-01-2015, 11:40 PM
Actually, non of the above but I respect the implication.

Right. I don't really want it, either, but that doesn't mean it's toast.

Put on E-bay. It'll sell.

milleniumdude1999
07-12-2015, 09:14 PM
First I would like to thank everyone here for the comments and advice on how to get these smooth barrel nuts off. I just completed my first re barrel of my model 11 trophy hunter with a smooth barrel nut. I had a heck of a time getting it off, but learned a lot here and from the experience. First I tried the smooth barrel nut wrench and that was a total bust. I think it actually puts too much pressure all the way around on the smooth nut, locking it up more. I used a 14" pipe wrench, with a lot of PB Penetrating catalyst Blast, soaking it for about 48 hours. Then I used a heat gun on it for a few minutes, not wanting to use a torch.

I used my harbor freight 6" vice with two sets of 2x4s drilled with 3/4" holes and then cut down the middle. The wood was soft enough to work its way around the barrel in both locations. I found that two sets of blocks were 100% necessary to keep the barrel from slipping (turning). I cranked it down very tight and the extra area of the second set of blocks really helps. Anyway it came right off after that, with a little elbow grease.

I read here on some other posts about the bluing process and salts cause corrosion and I believe this is very true, as can be seen by the pics of my toasted nut. Replaced it with an old style stainless nut with the groves, very happy with it. Thanks again and I hope this helps someone else in the same boat. I am a firm believer in tossing the smooth nut after this experience.

http://s3.postimg.org/6pfchvxwi/IMG_0940.jpg

limige
07-13-2015, 10:53 PM
so you clamped on the barrel and removed the action from the barrel not trying to hold the nut or did you have the nut in one block and the barrel in the other?

milleniumdude1999
07-13-2015, 11:42 PM
so you clamped on the barrel and removed the action from the barrel not trying to hold the nut or did you have the nut in one block and the barrel in the other?

Here are some pics if it helps. First Pic is how I held the barrel, no action wrench necessary, just hold barrel tight using two wood blocks of 2x4 and 3/4 inch holes. The wrench in the pic is the smooth barrel nut wrench that puts to much pressure on the circumference of the nut, making it impossible to move/turn.
http://s14.postimg.org/jurq7812o/IMG_0949.jpg

Second Pic is Using the good old pipe wrench. It only graps the nut in two spots, not so tight!

http://s11.postimg.org/ojn2a3gb6/IMG_0950.jpg

Third pic is the stuff I soaked the nut in:


http://s3.postimg.org/emtow3wbm/IMG_0951.jpg

To loosen, turn the nut so it screws towards the muzzle, removing pressure from the action. Once loose, the action will spin right off and then wrench your smooth nut off with a little elbow grease, as it will be corroded as seen in my blurry pic above.

I really hope this helps. If you haven't got that nut off yet, give this a try, even with the cut up nut, just use the pipe wrench and a "good" spot on the nut.

Forgive me if I was sloppy, this only my second post here. Again thanks to all who provided the "tricks." The two blocks of 2x4s with 3/4" holes do a nice job of holding it tight. Harbor Freight vice was about 50 bucks, replacing a smaller unit. Yea, cheap, but it works fine. Just couldn't see forking out bucks for a barrel vice and action wrench. Yea, I'm thrifty to put it lightly.

Used a torque wrench to tighten my new barrel down to 40 lbs with a stainless nut with groves, old style. Of course headspaced with go and no go, as required. I'd post pics but I am still in the middle of my build. Waiting on Boyd's Pro varmint and will pillar bed.

limige
07-16-2015, 01:15 AM
thanks, I may change mine down the road if the tubbs kit doesn't get it to shoot better