110 7mm Rem Mag mods (trigger and tang floating)

[grumpygunguy]

I am in the process of converting an old 110 (pre-accutrigger) into a long range target/hunting rifle. It's going to be a reasonable long term project and in the meantime it shoots pretty good as is. My first 3 shot group was about 0.7 inches at 100 yards. So far I've done the easy stuff. I replaced the stock with a Bell & Carlson Medalist Classic, I have a EGW 20 MOA rail, and I replaced the plastic trigger guard with a steel one.

My next change is going to be the trigger. I'd planned to go with the Timney from the beginning. I've read about all of the aftermarket triggers and that seemed like the best option for me. Recently I tried to compare it with the Rifle Basix SAV-1 and decided that they look almost identical. I was still going with the Timney most because "it's a Timney" but I was reading another thread that said that the Timney and the SAV-1 are for all intents and purposes the same trigger. I'm not looking to cheap out on this rifle but if the two are the same then I'm happy to get the SAV-1 and spend that $25 somewhere else. Does anyone have a strong opinion on one over the other?

Second, I really like the B&C stock, but the tang is not floated when I torque the action down. The barrel is, but not the tang. Is the best way to float the tang to simply sand away the area under the tang? Has anyone done this before? What other options are there?

Thanks for the help.

[wbm]

I just used a Dremel tool sanding drum on mine to float the tang.

[bythebook]

I just used a Dremel tool sanding drum on mine to float the tang.

+1 I did the same. I have SAV-1 and SSS and I like SSS the best, but I also have several 3 screw Savage triggers and after I reworked them I could not tell too much difference between the SAV-1 and them. When I got my SSS they were less expense than the SAV-1.

[grumpygunguy]

Thanks. I generally think that a Dremel tool on a gun is a bad idea, but I decided to go with it on this project and it worked out fine. I probably used a sanding block (200 grit on a piece of a paint stirrer worked great) as much or more than the Dremel. I can now slip a sheet of paper under the tang and it seems to me that's enough of a gap to be fully floated. If a bigger "float" is better then someone can correct me. Now that I've started it was pretty easy and I'd feel okay taking more material off the stock.

[D.ID]

" I generally think that a Dremel tool on a gun is a bad idea"
Between bedding stocks, polishing parts and trimming scope rails.......I think I've used my dremel on every long gun I have had at one point or another.
All things in moderation.