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lrshooting
03-05-2015, 01:17 AM
As a machinist I just milled a piece of flat stock to fit in the bolt channel. Clamp the stock in a vise and go. Its worked so far. Destroyed a wheeler wrench on one of mongo's nuts ended up splitting the nut with a die grinder. Never twisted the receiver even though the wrench was toast.
Interesting...wouldn't you still have issues with twisting the reciever if that bar wasn't 100% unflexed though? I dont know what type of steel that is, but I assume its hardened

geargrinder
03-05-2015, 02:16 AM
I made one like that too. Works great.

limige
03-05-2015, 04:03 AM
Nope not hardened. Steel flexes and rebounds. It was made from a tool steel not cheap cold roll. Can't say it won't ever twist one just saying it works for me.

lrshooting
03-05-2015, 08:36 AM
Nope not hardened. Steel flexes and rebounds. It was made from a tool steel not cheap cold roll. Can't say it won't ever twist one just saying it works for me.

Huh. If it works, it works. Its a good idea regardless. Only change I think I might ever make it to lathe down the stock to round except for the front so that It only turned on that part of the reciever. But honestly, pay no attention to me. Ive never even had a barrel off. I need to get that done this weekend if that barrel shows up.

Robinhood
03-05-2015, 12:00 PM
Huh. If it works, it works. Its a good idea regardless. Only change I think I might ever make it to lathe down the stock to round except for the front so that It only turned on that part of the reciever.
This is my opinion also.

limige
03-06-2015, 01:03 PM
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea. I've seen some people just take an old bolt head and weld it to some round stock. Then weld the round stock to something they can grab in a vise

BillPa
03-06-2015, 06:05 PM
Only change I think I might ever make it to lathe down the stock to round except for the front so that It only turned on that part of the reciever.

Typically that's how they were made, they only engaged the lug races they're length in the receiver ring.

http://i34.tinypic.com/21omvia.jpg

If you look you can see the back of lug is just outside the ring, the forward portion is touching or almost touching the barrel tenon. I only use those tools for swaps after the factory Igore tightened barrel(s) are pulled. For those I use a different setup-tools, no barrel vise either way.

Bill

Bill

lrshooting
03-06-2015, 11:04 PM
Typically that's how they were made, they only engaged the lug races they're length in the receiver ring.



If you look you can see the back of lug is just outside the ring, the forward portion is touching or almost touching the barrel tenon. I only use those tools for swaps after the factory Igore tightened barrel(s) are pulled. For those I use a different setup-tools, no barrel vise either way.

Bill

Bill
I see. That doesn't actually look that hard to make, but I just think for now a vice might do me more good economically. I have a lot of metal laying around, but not necessarily the right size, shape, hardness, or tooling to make the part. Welders, grinders, torches, chopsaws, and drill presses, but not a mill that I have had to talk myself out of due to the financial stress from being a college student many times. Everything else is just farm stuff and is justified by the frequent use they see.

BillPa
03-07-2015, 12:09 AM
That doesn't actually look that hard to make

You're right. If I can make one its a pretty good bet most anyone can! :p but you don't have to fiddle around, Davidson and Hart has them make, 'bout 60 bucks.

Bill

lrshooting
03-07-2015, 09:31 PM
You're right. If I can make one its a pretty good bet most anyone can! :p but you don't have to fiddle around, Davidson and Hart has them make, 'bout 60 bucks.

Bill
Except I dont have a mill...maybe you didnt either? I might try doing it with some round bar and keystock. New idea! I actually just thought of that while I was typing is the bad part. Anyways, maybe a hard round steel shaft and find a key that would fit well. I can do quite a bit of metal removing with a grinder so a small amount of keystock would not be that hard to remove. I have alot of it laying around from .2-.75 I think. I dont know, just guessing. Might make it alot easier than trying to keep that action from turning with friction.

Uncle H
03-10-2015, 09:30 AM
I use the Wheeler action wrench on stagger feed and center feed with no issues at all. It has a recess for the recoil lug,,I only screw the bolts down finger tight to utilize the recoil lugfor grip and leverage so there is no chance off twisting the action.How ever you will probably need the new style barrel nut wrench if th nut is smooth.

+1, I have a Wheeler wrench and never had a problem with either receiver.

limige
03-10-2015, 09:05 PM
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e256/limige/20130418_003708_zps60b17951.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e256/limige/20130418_003652_zps60867b80.jpg

sizes on mine for reference

Txhillbilly
03-12-2015, 11:29 PM
It's pretty simple to modify the Wheeler action wrench to work perfect with the newer recoil lugs. I just used a round file and filed a groove in the action wrench where the recoil lug detent fits into the action. It works perfectly!

http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af113/1Txhillbilly/Savage%2065%20Creedmoor/018.jpg (http://s999.photobucket.com/user/1Txhillbilly/media/Savage%2065%20Creedmoor/018.jpg.html)

http://i999.photobucket.com/albums/af113/1Txhillbilly/Savage%2065%20Creedmoor/015.jpg (http://s999.photobucket.com/user/1Txhillbilly/media/Savage%2065%20Creedmoor/015.jpg.html)