Help me build a long range rig, PLEASE!

[Jaggy13]

Hey guys,
New to to your community but not shooting.
I am a competitive shooter and am looking to get a little more accustom to long range. What I know is that I have a lot to learn from people that already figured alot of this stuff out.
What I want is an easy to shoot 1000 yrd gun that I can get running with less effort. I have selected the 260 round based on its flat shooting characteristics, bucks wind and extended barrel life. Also I would like to add a gas gun down the road. So already having the ammo dialed in will help with that build.

My main area of competition is 3Gun. I will use this rifle mainly for bonus targets. Usually 2MOA or smaller from 600 to 900 or whatever the match director dreams up. I plan to shoot some PRS matches and will most likely be using a comp on the barrel. I may suppress it from time to time, but the primary function will be comped.

I am planning on putting a 6-24x50 Vortex PST on top. I'm guessing I will need medium rings and some kind of MOA rail. 20? 30?
Here is a slight curve ball. I am left handed, Left eye dominate but want a right handed gun. I will keep my left hand on fire control while I run the bolt with my right hand.
My build so far is planned to be a hog hunter model 11(thanks Twinsen), re-barreled with a 24" or 26" criterion barrel. Either dropped in a McRee chassis or XLR chassis. Or keep it cheap and figure out an adustable cheakweld solution and bottom metal on a bell and carelson tactical medalist stock. (Or HS precision.) I want 10 round AICS mags.

Here is where I need your help! These are all just words to me... I have now heard from guys running chassis that the flex to much and the don't load up the same. So stick with a stock. or 100 other little bits of info that sway people one way or another.

About me; I shoot pistol probably the best. I can describe a 100 things I like about a double stack 1911 over a polymer frame gun. But where the rubber meets the road, I can shoot both with almost the same results. I have a $2000 dollar STI that I feel like I shoot way better than a $500 Glock. The timer doesn't always agree...

One of the things I really like about the Savage platform is I can change the barrel out myself. I feel like I can keep things under control and easily change caliber if I so desire later. I have seen 1/3 MOA out a build similar to what I describe.
Thats all the time for rambling I have for now.
Thanks in advance!

[YDKDY]

You may be able to use low rings with your Viper PST. I used low (Warne) on my PST ona long action with CBI varmint contour barrel and Weaver 20 moa base. Leupold med prw rings were a little high.

Sounds like a nice build. Please post some pics as it comes together.

[stomp442]

Shouldn't need a 20 moa base with a 260. That vortex scope should have more than enough adjustment for 1000 yards plus. Your build sounds good to me if you want a stock that's adjustable you may need to look into a manners.

[Jaggy13]

Shouldn't need a 20 moa base with a 260. That vortex scope should have more than enough adjustment for 1000 yards plus. Your build sounds good to me if you want a stock that's adjustable you may need to look into a manners.
Thanks guys.
That's really the question at the moment. Do I go cheap on the stock and add bottom metal and my own adjustable cheek piece or go with a chassis system.
A few local guys are saying the chassis flex to much. They want me to get a mcmillan A5 or the Manners.
Not sure I'm ready to spend that kinda money on a stock...

[LoneWolf]

I have the XLR Element Chassis and know numerous shooters from local and PRS matches that use chassis systems from a number of manufacturers. The Chassis definitely does not flex and so far I like it better than my Manners T2A, but I'm still getting fully accustom to it. The thing with the Chassis I notice most is that you have to be perfect in your form, Breath, Trigger pull, everything! They seem to teach you your weak points very quickly. I chose to go with the Chassis because I'm tired of bedding and tired of the long wait for quality gunsmith work. I shoot matches on a monthly basis and I am currently gearing up for the PRS match in Albuquerque come April. A 260 is a good choice. You could go with a 6.5 Creedmoor though and have affordable quality factory ammo readily available until you get everything you need to reload the new rig. That's probably where I would start if I was starting all over! I've seen a lot of off the shelf LRP's at monthly matches and a few in the larger matches that shoot pretty well. I ran a M10 in the manners T2A and recently switched to a Shilen DGR in the XLR Element Chassis in a custom 243win chamber.

Most important thing is to fit the rifle to you, so that you can be comfortable in numerous unplanned shooting positions. If you're already struggling with fit before you're put in a high stress competition it's going to be highlighted 10 fold when you start sending rounds down range. Also I currently run a 27" barrel with brake. I'm planning for my next barrel to be 24" or 25" tops. A very small percentage of shots actually require the super high barrel burning velocities that some guys run and if you aren't one of the guys running at the top of the pack then it's probably better to run a good accurate load and get all the practice you can out of a barrel until you become more competitive.

I won a couple monthly matches at the local range then started going to monthly's at a more serious range and got my behind kicked. Mainly by the new unfamiliar obstacles and tighter time limits adding a level of pressure I was unprepared for. PRS type events require an extreme amount of practice and dedication that I thought my Military shooting background would have me better prepared for. Once your in it though, it's addicting! Super talented and extremely nice group of people!

[hafejd30]

As far as the stock goes, I have a mcree chasis as well as several hs precision and Choate stocks. Mcree is my favorite but also the most expensive. This chasis is solid as any other stock (even with a folding hinge). Choate tactical is my second favorite. Consider the expense of a stock with bottom metal vs a chasis. Certain stocks with the metal will be nearly what a chasis will run you

[Jaggy13]

Thanks guys! I'm looking a rig today, mcree with a shot out 6.5 creedmore. I may buy it and re-barrel. If not I'll start buying new parts.

[zap]

Their is a really nice .260 up for sale in the classifieds in this forum. You need to be a paid member to view them. It's well worth the money. Buy looking at the steel gong that he posted, i would say it is VERY accurite. And no, i don't know who the seller is.

[Jaggy13]

Quick question,
If I got a chassis that accepts the bottom release, or stock for that matter. Wouldn't a top release action still work?
I would just have an extra hole right?

Zap, Thanks for the heads up. I'm going to check out this local rifle first, but will keep my options open.

[budmccarroll]

I went with a .260 LRP. I mounted a Steiner T5xi 5x25 on it. This thing shoots much better than I can.

http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll89/bud2928/2015-02-23%2016.48.43_zpstqqsjo1a.jpg

I build all my loads, so ammo is not an issue.

[CriterionBarrels]

Feel free to give us a call if you need any help on the barrel side of things. Jim Briggs over at Northland can help walk you through installation if you need any pointers there.

[Jaggy13]

Feel free to give us a call if you need any help on the barrel side of things. Jim Briggs over at Northland can help walk you through installation if you need any pointers there.
Thanks!
I will be in touch shortly!

When ordering a barrel, I see options, for shank size?
What is that? What would I need for what I'm looking for? Large or small?

[stomp442]

Depends on what action you start with. The .260 runs fine from either action size. Talk to Jim at Northland and he will set you on a course of knowledge, enlightenment and little tiny groups. He is a stand up guy and probably has everything you need other than your chassis.

[Jaggy13]

Looks like this local deal is gonna go through. I'll have a McRee chassis and a 110 action tomorrow.
I'll probably be giving Jim a call to talk out some details. For example, I think I want a 24" threaded heavy barrel but I don't see that as an option. Does he do custom orders?
Also will the chamber take Lapua brass? Not sure I'm going to use it, but I'm riding the coat tails of some good shooters here, and if they use it, there has to be a good reason.
So I'm guessing the 110 action is the long action and will need the long shank?
Thanks for your patience guys. I do appreciate it.

[jbjh]

A long action does not necessarily need a large shank barrel, and more than likely your long action is a small shank. As was mentioned before, call Jim Briggs (telephone is the only way to get a hold of him really).

I will say that if you are going to run a long action, and plan on reloading, you might also look at the 6.5X55 Swede (regular, or AI). All of the joys of the other 6.5 calibers, but with the benefit of supercheap Lapua brass (probably the cheapest cal the make).

[Jaggy13]

Alright, just picked up the base rifle. Next is to call Jim and get a barrel ordered.

http://i1300.photobucket.com/albums/ag91/jaggy1101/pics%20for%20forum/C6600C32-BD4D-4D7A-8B0E-EDDE24705154_zpsrecistla.jpg (http://s1300.photobucket.com/user/jaggy1101/media/pics%20for%20forum/C6600C32-BD4D-4D7A-8B0E-EDDE24705154_zpsrecistla.jpg.html)

[CriterionBarrels]

Looks like this local deal is gonna go through. I'll have a McRee chassis and a 110 action tomorrow.
I'll probably be giving Jim a call to talk out some details. For example, I think I want a 24" threaded heavy barrel but I don't see that as an option. Does he do custom orders?
Also will the chamber take Lapua brass? Not sure I'm going to use it, but I'm riding the coat tails of some good shooters here, and if they use it, there has to be a good reason.
So I'm guessing the 110 action is the long action and will need the long shank?
Thanks for your patience guys. I do appreciate it.

We can do a 24" threaded heavy varmint or bull barrel for you. Jim can take custom orders built to your specs. If you would like me to send you the reamer prints for your cartridge, feel free to shoot me an email at contact@criterionbarrels.com. Please let me know if there is anything else we can do to help out!

-Josh

[Jaggy13]

We can do a 24" threaded heavy varmint or bull barrel for you. Jim can take custom orders built to your specs. If you would like me to send you the reamer prints for your cartridge, feel free to shoot me an email at contact@criterionbarrels.com. Please let me know if there is anything else we can do to help out!

-Josh
Email sent!

[Jaggy13]

Looking at my current setup, When I replace the barrel, I'm thinking that a new lug may be in order.
Any value in adding one of these?
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/recoil-parts/recoil-lugs/savage-competition-recoil-lug-prod20415.aspx

Also do I need to true the action and barrel nut? any reason to replace the barrel nut too?
Looking at the photo above, it appears that I have a short shank. does that look right?
Thanks for the help guys.

[Jaggy13]

A long action does not necessarily need a large shank barrel, and more than likely your long action is a small shank. As was mentioned before, call Jim Briggs (telephone is the only way to get a hold of him really).

I will say that if you are going to run a long action, and plan on reloading, you might also look at the 6.5X55 Swede (regular, or AI). All of the joys of the other 6.5 calibers, but with the benefit of supercheap Lapua brass (probably the cheapest cal the make).
It ended up being a short action. Thanks for the reply.