which epoxy ?

[rfd12fv]

typically, rockite will add more weight than epoxy. you can control this by adding one or two pvc tubes into the butt stock (see my pic, above) - this can drastically lighten the added rockite weight as far less is used. the butt tube(s) can be filled with lead shot (or whatever) to add weight, and if not packed in and allowed to move the shot/weights will add to recoil absorption.

[Rosco]

Also if you were able to get those pipes in at about a 10 degree angle you could insert a Graco recoil reducer which would be nice as well. There have been a lot of people who wanted to put muzzle brakes on their Axis but it simply wasn't feasible with the amount of metal on the factory barrels. I would think by adding the additional 2 pounds or so along with the that it would significantly reduce the recoil. I need to try this mod one of these days.

[rfd12fv]

been there and done that with a mercury recoil tube up the stock's butt, along with the rockite. it only made a very slight difference that wasn't worth the $50 or so for the merc tube.

just the rockite alone is the best $8 synthetic stock fix for two reasons - much added stiffness for the fore end, and the overall addition of weight mainly where it's needed most (the butt stock).

[Rosco]

So with the added weight and the Graco tube you still only noticed slight difference in the recoil reduction?

[rfd12fv]

So with the added weight and the Graco tube you still only noticed slight difference in the recoil reduction?

i didn't notice any drastic reduction in recoil when i added the merc tube. functionally, just the added rockite weight did the trick for me with regards to helping tame recoil.

[Russ77]

Concidering doing this to my rifle. Seems like a project I can handle. Did any of you guys put the rods in before the epoxy. If so what did you use? Not sure how I am going to do it yet or what in going to use

[rfd12fv]

see the video links i posted - you put the pvc tubes in first, then the rockite. make sure to close off the inside tube ends so the goop doesn't fill 'em up. hold the tubes in place with tape so they don't float up or get out of alignment. use one or two tubes .... OR, don't bother using any tubes and fill 'er up with rockite. yer call, it's all good.

[Russ77]

Great video. I want to shout a bipod on my rifle so I will need a sturdy stock

[Russ77]

What is the difference ( if there is one) between putting epoxy in a stock and glass bedding a stock? I have read and heard about glass bedding but I'm not sure what it is or what it does?

[rfd12fv]

two diff'rent things ...

you glass bed the action for consistency.

you glass bed or rockite the stock for stiffness, and perhaps to add mass weight.

[DrThunder88]

Specifically, when glass bedding a rifle, the epoxy is slathered between the action and the stock. As rfd12fv says this creates the most perfect inletting possible, which goes toward consistent reassembly. In turn, this allows for consistent harmonics or something. Bedding can be done in pretty much any stock.

Putting epoxy in the stock is typically just a matter of filling the voids in an injection-molded stock. Whether it has much if any primary effect on accuracy, I don't know. Secondary effects from keeping the forearm from touching the barrel or balancing the rifle could be beneficial though.

[rfd12fv]

what the good doc sez.

bedding is all about consistency of the mating of the action and stock.

plastic stocks with lotsa nooks 'n' crannies get stiffened by adding anything that will both adhere and harden. this is not about adding weight, but about strengthening/stiffening the fore arm, and to some degree the stock itself, particularly in the wrist area. since learning about rockite (literally, it's a special form of cement) i'd never waste the money on epoxy for stock stiffening as rockite is cheaper, better and adds much needed weight. ymmv.

[foxx]

Well, yes and no to all of the above, in some respects, its a matter of semantics.

Technically speaking, "glass bedding" refers to using FIBERGLASS to bed the action and/or barrel channel. Years ago when gunsmiths first started to free-float barrels of wood stocks, they would add fiberglass to the opened-up barrel channels so as to prevent the wood from swelling and touching the barrels. I believe they would make the "gap" between barrel and stock minimal and it was almost considered an art form to make it ever so slim of a gap. Today, almost no one bothers with that, but, rather, opens the barrel channel and seals the wood with wood sealant or epoxy, but the effort is rarely made to actually bed the channels with fiberglass.

Epoxy is used to bed the stock to the action so there is a perfect match of the two surfaces. Also, the epoxy is used to prevent the stock from swelling and contracting, changing the mating surface of the two.

When people say "Glass bedding" today, they are using an old term that came from the practice of using fiberglass, now epoxies are used because it is many times easier and more durable.

A better term would simply be "bedding" an action, which means you are making a perfect match of the surfaces between the action and the stock. It is assumed you use epoxy for this. THe epoxy acts as a stong, inflexible and solid surface that does not swell or contract under different environmental conditions. Without it, you tend to get pressure points and binding that stresses the action and changes with the weather. Along with that, most people will also "pillar" their action screws. "pillaring" is a different concept, but most often done at the same time. "Pillaring" means you add hollowed-out pillars of metal to the action screw holes so the action screws are prevented from crushing the stock material under torque. The inside diameter of the pillars should be greater than the outside dimensions of the action screws, and the screws should be centered inside the pillars so they do not strike the insides of the pillars under recoil, but rather, are like a free-floated barrel in its channel.

Filling hollow stocks with cement or lead or epoxy, etc, is just that that... it depends upon what you are trying to achieve. If you stiffen a flimsy stock, good. If you need/want to add weight, good. Do /use whatever material you like or have available or whatever. Sounds to me like this cement stuff may be a good quick fix to making a hollow-feeling, flimsy plastic stock better.

[DrThunder88]

Interesting! I never knew about the fiberglass aspect of it. I thought it might have referred to that chopped glass floc that Brownells includes in their AcraGlas kits.

[foxx]

It might, Doc. But I know they used to lay strands/layers of fiberglass into the material as they bedded the barrel channel. They'd put down a thin layer of epoxy or something, then add fiberglass, then add another layer of epoxy, then add more fiberglass, etc. It was a slow process. I think today's better epoxies that incorporate steal and/or fiberglass into the mix simply means its not necessary to layer it anymore.

"Glass bedding" sounds better. More impressive, to me, because it harkens-back to the old days, suggesting more effort and skill went into the project.

But, in my mind, in reality, it's over glamourizing what we do today.

[franks5]

Hi please can someone tell me
what material is the savage 16 synthetic stocks made from

[DrThunder88]

I'm not 100% sure, but I am more than 75% sure it's injection molded, fiberglass reinforced nylon.

[franks5]

Thats why epoxy will not stick
going to make a bigger p grip
what is the best epoxy to put on
my pistol grip
got a synthetic factory stock