Bedding Savage 10, Trigger Sear Question

[H4350]

Hi Everyone!

First post here, I recently put together a Savage in 6.5 CM. I ordered a Manners stock a few months ago and am trying to get everything set up to bed the rifle.

I read an article where instead of cutting the rear pillar the guy used a grinder and took off some of the trigger sear. Has anyone every done this?

The reasoning behind it is that with the "half" rear pillar it causes the tang to flex when the rear screw is tightened. Has anyone had this happen?

Thanks!

[Bigeclipse]

Hi Everyone!

First post here, I recently put together a Savage in 6.5 CM. I ordered a Manners stock a few months ago and am trying to get everything set up to bed the rifle.

I read an article where instead of cutting the rear pillar the guy used a grinder and took off some of the trigger sear. Has anyone every done this?

The reasoning behind it is that with the "half" rear pillar it causes the tang to flex when the rear screw is tightened. Has anyone had this happen?

Thanks!
It almost always suggested to cut the pillar and not the sear. The tangs on savages need to be free floated so there should be zero stress on the tang.

[GaCop]

Grinding on the sear weakens it as it already has a hole in it. Once ground, it could fail when you least want it to.

[H4350]

Thank y'all so much for the advice! I sure am glad I asked the question on here because I was going to grind the sear out this weekend.

[Bigeclipse]

Thank y'all so much for the advice! I sure am glad I asked the question on here because I was going to grind the sear out this weekend.
Look up free floating the tang of a savage. I'm guessing you will be bedding the rifle. Most people will put 2 to 3 layers of painters tape under the tang to float it during the bedding process

[bsekf]

It is easier to to keep the pillar perpendicular to the action, if you cut the notch on the rear pillar after it is bedded. You have to remove the trigger group. Do not grind on the trigger group.