Burris sig. zee rings on 338lm

[D.ID]

Pop can aluminum shims in conjunction with a base bedding. How much depends on the can used and how much you need.
Thickness in thousandths needed per moa I'll have to look up but I'll see if I can find it, should be in my log book somewhere.
I have done this on several, some to add moa and some to subtract moa from canted bases. It's cheep, easy and works slick but has it's limits and can not realistically be used to cover large discrepancies like 15moa without compromising the screw alignment that anchors the base on. 1-7 is no problem, however while making these fine tune adjustments you need to first find out the reality of the individual set up and load by assembling and zeroing to determine how much you really need.
Then disassemble correct and reassemble.

[pittbull46]

Thanks again I will try it when it warms

[yobuck]

The Weaver tacticle rings are certainly a pretty decent ring especially considering the cost.
They do have 6 screws holding each cap. We use them on quite a few of our high recoiling guns.
They are alloy however and wont take the abuse of steel. I have ruined some that i dont think
would have happened with steel. That said my sons 338x378 with the Vortex scope (had those rings)
when we discovered the slipping. The slipping in his case at least is caused by the torque requirments
necessary in order for the adjustments to function. Tighten to 25 inch pounds and it dosent slip.
But look in the scope while turning the knob and you will find erratic movement at those settings.
As for using beverage cans for shim material certainly it will work. We did that 30 years ago because
tapered bases werent yet being offered. But now they are and my advise for a long term solution is to
use them. You can also get shim material in specific thickneses which would be better for determining
which base you need as for taper. Also be prepared when adding shims or a tapered base for a windage
problem when attempting to zero the scope. With the proper ammount of taper for your gun/scope you
will be able to zero for 100 yds if thats your choice. Thats not saying that will also yeild the most ammount
of elevation youd like also however. BUT as you gain elevation by using the tapered base you are also squeezing
down on the available windage which sometimes causes problems when attempting to zero the gun. As you add
elevation when shooting a distant target the windage will again become available for use. Many here no doubt already
knew this but if you didnt, be advised.

[pittbull46]

With a 40 mos base how much more elevation can I see and if I zero at say 400 yards can I get more sorry for all the stupid questions

[D.ID]

In theory your 70 moa scope should have a relative zero around 35 moa so when mounted on a 40moa base it would be bottomed out and still 5 moa high which is roughly 400 yards depending on your load.
So in theory with a 400 yard zero you would have 70 moa of adjustment available. Of course that means your scope at zero is totally bottomed out and from a 400 yard zero you will not need as much adjustment to get to a mile.

[D.ID]

Yobuck ......."We did that 30 years ago because
tapered bases werent yet being offered. But now they are and my advise for a long term solution is to
use them."
Agreed.
If only there were reasonably accessible 17moa, 25moa and 36.5moa bases available.
I am not encourage shimming unless your pushing the range of an optic and need to.
.
Pitbull46.....Your base is overkill for that scope. You can compensate, switch bases and use the reticle for the extra or you could look at a different optic if you have not ordered it yet.
The 6-24x50 SIII LR has 100moa so (in theory) on a 40moa base it would give 90moa of up, need no shims and leave less than one revelation of the turret below your zero (even at 100).

[pittbull46]

I have a millett with 25 with my old eyes it's hard to see the target at 1000 yards that's why I want the 32 would like the 50 but that has less l won't be shooting a mile more than a few times the range is a bit away. Mostly shoot 1000 yards

[D.ID]

I totally understand wanting magnification. I am a big fan of high power magnification but...........25X from a millett absolutely will not compare with 24x from a sightron siii............Not even close.
Resolution advantages require less magnification.

[geargrinder]

I'll recommend the Burris Signature Zee's. I have them on my sporter 338RUM holding a Nighforce NXS 5.5-22x50. They hold just fine.

I can't think of a tougher test for a set of rings. Light rifle, heavy kicking chambering, and a heavy scope. Haven't had any movement.

I use them on all of my builds.

[pittbull46]

I just got my scope and 2 sets of burris sig zee rings I am going to try 3 rings could somebody tell me what torque to use on the rings thanks

[yobuck]

Id try 20 inch pounds and see if the adjustments work. They should work ok at that setting. Even the vectronix (seemed) to work ok at 20#.
Just keep your eye on the scope as it sits in the rings. It might take some rounds to notice any movement. Make sure the scope is clear of any
oily residue by wiping it off with alcahol or something. Not sure about the inserts though as to how that might affect those.

[geargrinder]

You may want to soak them in alcohol with as much oil that comes on them.

[pittbull46]

thanks I will try 20lbs they do have a lot of oil thanks again

[FEENIX]

Yep just add a 3rd or even a forth to increase grip. You'll see this on a lot of serious ELR rigs.
The 1st time I 've seen the use of 3rd or 4th ring was on Kirby Allen's beasts.