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tufrthnails
01-03-2015, 11:18 PM
So I am starting to get into the more technical aspects of reloading at least for me. What are the benifits from annealing? I believe it allows for a more uniform case and extends Case life, but I am not sure why. What equipment is needed for annealing brass?

bootsmcguire
01-03-2015, 11:59 PM
Brass will get hard from being worked. Whether it is being severely necked down or up, or just being loaded over and over. Annealing re-softens the brass and allows it to be used longer and resize properly.

All you really need is a cordless drill with a socket attachment, a deep well socket that the brass will slide into, a pan of water, and a propane torch.

Here is a you tube video I found depicting basically how I do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgD5D0Wzu-c

tufrthnails
01-04-2015, 12:08 AM
awesome thanks I got all of those.

BillPa
01-04-2015, 12:12 AM
Boots hit the head on the nail :p Take a look here too ....http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html

Steelhead
01-04-2015, 12:25 AM
this vid was very helpful to me and no voodoo involved.
I do it with a drill and socket.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fiIrLvAUh6o&feature=player_embedded

BillPa
01-04-2015, 12:59 AM
BTW, if you don't want to spring for something such as Light annealer .....http://www.cartridgeanneal.com/

bootsmcguire
01-04-2015, 01:08 AM
Boots hit the head on the nail :p

My forehead still has the mark. Just glad it was a roofing nail rather than a finish nail. The tiny head on the finish nail mighta reached some grey matter, and hey I don't have much to spare. ;)

cowtownup
01-04-2015, 09:38 AM
Where at in the reloading process do you anneal? Say I'm going to anneal after 2 firings, would I do it before I FL resize or after I've got the brass fully prepped?

LongRange
01-04-2015, 10:09 AM
Where at in the reloading process do you anneal? Say I'm going to anneal after 2 firings, would I do it before I FL resize or after I've got the brass fully prepped?

Best to anneal before sizing as youll get more consistent sizing...work hardened brass wants to spring back after sizing.

I didnt watch the videos posted so im not sure if using tempilaq has been brought up but if your new to annealing id suggest getting a bottle of tempilaq 750 that way you know when the brass has been heated enough. I will put a dot of tempilaq on the inside of the necks on 5 or 6 cases and anneal 2 of them and count until the tempilaq melts then run 10 cases just counting then run one with tempilaq just to make sure im not getting to much or to little heat.

barrel-nut
01-04-2015, 11:15 AM
I do like the Tempilac too, but I have found it to be hard to remove after heating. Do you have any tricks for getting it off, or do you just leave it on the inside of the neck?

yobuck
01-04-2015, 11:24 AM
BTW, if you don't want to spring for something such as Light annealer .....http://www.cartridgeanneal.com/

Bill recommended this setup to me about 2 years ago. I think its an excellant way to anneal.
I had tried other ways and they all seem to get it done. The liquid Tempilaq takes away
most chance of error in over heating. That could be used with any system you choose of coarse.
The Anneal Rite does allow for doing it very quickly however and theres no water involved.
50% alcahol dip will allow for removing the Tempilaq residue especially with a mild abrasive pad.

JTCrl
01-04-2015, 02:59 PM
As above except no pan of water. Brass is unaffected by rapid cooling so all you really accomplish is adding a requirement to dry it when you're done.

Google "anneal brass", stretch out in your favorite recliner next to a large cooler (full, of course), and enjoy your evening reading.

Stockrex
01-04-2015, 03:36 PM
Bill recommended this setup to me about 2 years ago. I think its an excellant way to anneal.
I had tried other ways and they all seem to get it done. The liquid Tempilaq takes away
most chance of error in over heating. That could be used with any system you choose of coarse.
The Anneal Rite does allow for doing it very quickly however and theres no water involved.
50% alcahol dip will allow for removing the Tempilaq residue especially with a mild abrasive pad.

bill, yobuck, good stuff, thanks for sharing, this is a great solution for a tight budget.

foxx
01-04-2015, 03:44 PM
Yep, I use that "machine" Bill and Yobuck are talking about. Seemed pricey at the time, but it is slick and fast. I really like it. Kinda get into a rhythm with it and just zip along. I find the tempelaq is good, and I use it on every one, but don't hardly need to because rig holds everything in the same position and I find myself counting... 1... 2... 3... drop. 1... 2... 3... drop. If it's easy enough for me, it's pretty dang good! :)

yobuck
01-04-2015, 04:21 PM
I made a modifacation for mine that eliminates any slippage in the adjustment height.
I was told that only happened because i didnt assemble it properly. But they did change
the instructions to eliminate that possibility after my complaint about it. My mod is simply
a pc of flat 1" aluminum stock with holes drilled at the proper hgt for all the cases i anneal.
When setting it up just put the bolt thru the propper hole.

LongRange
01-04-2015, 04:41 PM
I do like the Tempilac too, but I have found it to be hard to remove after heating. Do you have any tricks for getting it off, or do you just leave it on the inside of the neck?

i put the cases with the tempi off to the side then after sizing i use a brass bore brush on my lyman express and run the brush in the necks...it gets most of it off..i then use those cases as sighters the first time out...i learned the hard way the first time i used it on all the cases and ended up with a lot of fliers thats why i only do a few with the tempi now.

LongRange
01-04-2015, 04:54 PM
if your cheap like me you can make your own annealing set up for a few bucks...this is mine i made out of some scrapes i had lying around....

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff515/LTT-/Mobile%20Uploads/photo1-9.jpg (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/LTT-/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo1-9.jpg.html)

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff515/LTT-/Mobile%20Uploads/photo2-9.jpg (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/LTT-/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo2-9.jpg.html)

barrel-nut
01-04-2015, 04:56 PM
Good idea LR

yobuck
01-04-2015, 06:23 PM
i put the cases with the tempi off to the side then after sizing i use a brass bore brush on my lyman express and run the brush in the necks...it gets most of it off..i then use those cases as sighters the first time out...i learned the hard way the first time i used it on all the cases and ended up with a lot of fliers thats why i only do a few with the tempi now.

Try putting it on the outside and it cleans off easily after dipping in alcohol.
As for speed of the Anneal rite. Last week a good friend stopped by with 180
378 wby cases. While i was setting up the unit he was applying a small dab of
Tempilaq on the outside neck of each case. He had a 50 case loading block done by the time
i had it set up. I then did 3 cases to show him how it was done before he took over.
I finished the dabbing with the Tempilaq on the others while he annealed them.
We were finished all 180 cases in less than 1 hour. If you were alone without distractions,
you could easily get a rythem and not need the tempilaq.

BillPa
01-04-2015, 06:40 PM
if your cheap like me you can make your own annealing set up for a few bucks...this is mine i made out of some scrapes i had lying around....



http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff515/LTT-/Mobile%20Uploads/photo2-9.jpg (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/LTT-/media/Mobile%20Uploads/photo2-9.jpg.html)

Move the tip of the flame down to the top of the shoulder so they're annealed too.

Bill