Pointers Please-Bedding

[hnts4fun]

Recently, in another thread, I posted the pictures below and received some good feedback from foxx.

“Not bad. My only concern is it does not look to me like you relieved enough wood to allow for a thick enough bed of epoxy. I am basing that off of the wood I see showing through around the front and rear action screws. When I do mine, I like at least an 1/8 " of epoxy. Also, I dont bed at all behind the rear screw. Just make sure the tang is floated. Otherwise, it looks good.”

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/linkin855/Savage260BedPrep.jpg (http://s224.photobucket.com/user/linkin855/media/Savage260BedPrep.jpg.html)

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/linkin855/Savage260Bed.jpg (http://s224.photobucket.com/user/linkin855/media/Savage260Bed.jpg.html)

The only way I’m going to learn how to do this better is by opening myself up to some constructive criticism. I’m new to this whole thing, so please chime in with ways I could have done this bedding job better; other first-timers may save themselves the effort of having to redo a project.

First off, I’m guessing I should have removed more stock material both fore and aft of the front pillar; is this correct? Next, it looks like I could have removed more stock material from either side of the front pillar as well; what say you?

Switching gears and taking a look at the rear pillar; should I have removed more stock material from in front of the rear pillar?

I looked up as many bedding photos as I could before doing this job and I really like the looks of nice smooth, uniform Devcon or Accraglass bedding work. I can’t really think of a way to make my pillars disappear under bedding material because my friend and I cinched the barreled action down fairly snug to the pillars. See picture.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/linkin855/Savage260Bed02.jpg (http://s224.photobucket.com/user/linkin855/media/Savage260Bed02.jpg.html)

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd186/linkin855/Savage260Bed03.jpg (http://s224.photobucket.com/user/linkin855/media/Savage260Bed03.jpg.html)

Thank you in advance for keeping me headed in the right direction!

[JCalhoun]

I think it will turn out fine.

One the most accurate F-Class rifles I ever had was bedded from recoil lug to tip of tang.

[olddav]

I hate to sound so vague but there is lots to read on the subject of glass bedding. Do a search on the web, this forum, and YouTube, you should find all the info required.

[hnts4fun]

Thanks Gents. I've got another one about ready to bed so I'm leaning towards removing more material during prep. The above rifle does have a floated tang and it shoots well but always looking for ways to improve.

[Bigeclipse]

Thanks Gents. I've got another one about ready to bed so I'm leaning towards removing more material during prep. The above rifle does have a floated tang and it shoots well but always looking for ways to improve.

I recently did my first bedding job and it turned out only "ok" but I learned many things such as one should apply a small amount of the bedding material (glass or epoxy) to both the action (in the spots that bed) and the stock not "just the stock only" this helps prevent air bubbles which I certainly had. As for your scenario...id go out and shoot it first. Remember that some rifles simply do not see any improvement with bedding but shot groups never get worse which is why people bed them to begin with. If it improves drastically then you don't need to re-bed it. If it doesn't improve, you could re-bed it and still see no improvement BUT at least you will know for sure that it is not the action that is the issue. After that, the next step would likely be an after market barrel.

If you are like me and simply like working on things (such as guns) then by all means skip the shooting it part and re-bed it for fun haha.

[hnts4fun]

I hear you. The rifle sports a Criterion barrel and shoots very well as is. I will, however, use these suggestions for the next project coming up around the corner.
Thanks

[olddav]

I used this info (adapted for Savage) to bed my last one, works well.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

One thing I did was feel the mag well with paper, topped the paper with clay, and let the bedding material flow over it. Once it cures I use a drimel w/sanding drum to cut out the mag well. If you do this you will also want to feel in the corresponding area in the action.

[Bigeclipse]

I hear you. The rifle sports a Criterion barrel and shoots very well as is. I will, however, use these suggestions for the next project coming up around the corner.
Thanks

I have a 7mm rem mag in a Bell and Carlson stock that sports a criterion light varmint contour barrel. Thing shoots so dang well (sub half MOA out to 400 yards so far) I am actually hesitant about bedding that rifle. I think I am only going to bed the recoil lug area...or I may just leave it alone haha.

[hnts4fun]

I can't count the number of times I've read where a new-to-Savage person has posted a question that goes something like this; "just bought my first Savage what should I do to it to increase its accuracy potential?" Inevitably an experienced member writes back saying; "shoot it first, you might not have to do anything." Sometimes I get twitchy about wanting to do Something or Anything to a new-to-me rifle but the shoot it first rule should carry the day.

Thanks everyone and olddav, I have this article; http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html, kept in several places on my computer; it is an excellent article.

[teele1]

+1 on that Richard Franklin bedding article the DVD is even better
I bed with this procedure with great success.