Nightmares about incoming Boyd's Pro Varmint stock.

[Old Medic]

I wanted another stock for the 112 bbl 7 mag (the Choate it currently resides in is just not practical for me), so I ordered a Boyd's Pro Varmint, which was formerly called the Tacticool, in the black, textured finish. After ordering the stock I ran across a Thread from the latter part of '14 about the aforementioned stock being soft, and cracking, and generally being, well, I think you get it. I'm afraid the 7's recoil is gonna spell "S-P-L-I-T" after I pillar, glass bed and start shooting the thing. Has anyone put a "heavy" recoiler in a Pro Varmint? Was it lately, and did it crack?
I'm going to start a 6.5 Creed build in a couple of months, and what with the woeful choice in OEM stocks for the Savage, I am considering (GASP) going another route.
Man, I hate even thunkin' that!

[Old Medic]

Man, oh, man! Been going through the OEM threads and seeing more and more stuff about problems with Boyd's. I am not generally a gloom-and-doom type of guy, but...

[foxx]

Nah, Medic, don't worry about it. If you're gonna bed and pillar it anyhow, there's no issue here. Just consider it an unfinished project when it hits your doorstep. Relieve it good, expect it to crack in the process, then run crazy glue down any thin cracks (high viscosity type is best), and then add some screws or something to the bedding material (running across the crack) as reinforcement. When done it will be many times stronger than necessary. It's nothing, really.

[FW Conch]

Also, I have not heard of any of the colored laminent models splitting, if you should want to order another in the future. If you insist on black, it is easy enough to paint them :-))

[Old Medic]

Nah, Medic, don't worry about it. If you're gonna bed and pillar it anyhow, there's no issue here. Just consider it an unfinished project when it hits your doorstep. Relieve it good, expect it to crack in the process, then run crazy glue down any thin cracks (high viscosity type is best), and then add some screws or something to the bedding material (running across the crack) as reinforcement. When done it will be many times stronger than necessary. It's nothing, really.

Foxx, obviously you've done this kind of thing a lot, and have experience which bolsters confidence. I, myself, never have, and am not enamored at all with the idea of "repairing", in advance, another company's brand new product. I'm not dismissing your suggestion because I really appreciate your time. Perhaps I expect too much from $109 product. Simply hoping I can do as planned, and go shooting, without the extra "repair" work. Chances are it will function flawlessly for years to come. Thanks again.

[Old Medic]

Also, I have not heard of any of the colored laminent models splitting, if you should want to order another in the future. If you insist on black, it is easy enough to paint them :-))

Not intending to pick nits, but if you search the threads there are pics of split laminates. I asked for one in the Pro Varmint but the young lady at Boyd's said in would be a wait which she could not define, so I went with the black, textured finish. I actually wanted the Pepper Laminate. Thanks for the reply.

[jpdown]

The problem is you don't have much room to work with when installing pillars and bedding a Savage action. So laminated wood may split or chip out in the thin spots. Use new, sharp drill bits and go slow when enlarging holes for pillars. Once you bed the pillars, recoil lug and action, I don't think you will have any problems with splitting.

[foxx]

Foxx, obviously you've done this kind of thing a lot, and have experience which bolsters confidence. I, myself, never have, and am not enamored at all with the idea of "repairing", in advance, another company's brand new product. I'm not dismissing your suggestion because I really appreciate your time. Perhaps I expect too much from $109 product. Simply hoping I can do as planned, and go shooting, without the extra "repair" work. Chances are it will function flawlessly for years to come. Thanks again.

I hear ya, but the fact that you plan to bed and pillar means you already consider the stock "unfinished" when you get it. So do I. In fact, that would be the case no matter what the product. When bedding, just cut/relieve the wood back a little more than usual, mix up some extra epoxy and add the screw. The strength of the stock material in that area is irrelevant. You could make one out of Styrofoam and tissue paper and it would be fine after bedding it if you do as I suggest. :). Now, if you don't bed and pillar it, I would agree, it isn't the stock for you, but I don't think anyone could make a wood stock that slim that would not crack. And who wants one any thicker than what it is already? :)

[Old Medic]

Hey, Foxx, after pondering the upcoming work I'm gonna do any ol' how, you're right. Why not go ahead a do the little extra for insurance? I see it as beneficial on the learning curve. So, how and where to position the screw shanks for maximum benefit is the issue. And what kind of adhesive to hold the shanks? I'm planning on starting a 6.5 Creedmoor build in a couple of months, so I may be going down this road again if I start with a Savage action. I appreciate the encouragement.

[foxx]

I prefer Devcon 10110 for bedding. However, it's a little hard and brittle for stock repair. (I learned that while "fixing" my Tacticool) Just relieve more than a little all around and use Acraglass for your bedding. Later, if you want, you can do some light relieving of the Acraglass and do a skim coat with Devcon 10110. Best of both worlds.

For the reinforcement screws, I cut the heads off of dry wall screws. I liked how the grooves were cut deep for lots of "grab" and, that's what I saw laying on the floor under my chair when I decided to do it. :)

Put one 1/3 of the way down , across the laminates, on the muzzle side of the rear action screw pillar, and another on the butt side of the front action screw pillar. Or, put one on both sides of the front pillar. It doesn't matter. All you have to do is tie it all together with the screws. I think I also put some heavy duty staples that were folded in on the ends around the rear action screw below the relief cut in the top of the rear pillar. When you are done, no one will ever see it, even if you remove the stock. Heck, pour the crap in there about 1/3 the way up, let it set a little, then add your screws and staples and fill it up with the Acraglass. After it hardens, remove whatever excess you have with a dremel and you're good to go.

Trust me. :) if you're up to the task of bedding, you can surely do this. It will be better than new. :)

keep us posted.

[foxx]

Also, just to help the bedding biht and hold on to the wood, you can drill some small, short holes at various angles all around where the acraglass goes. The material will flow into the holes and lock the laminates up so they can't separate or pull away from the bedding you poured. Overkill, maybe, but so what?

Another "image"... tHink of it as making a jack-o-lantern... when cleaning out the inside, remove a little extra meat and then fill it with Accraglass. Just don't punch thru the "skin". :)

[Old Medic]

Much appreciated, Foxx. I actually had the thought of drilling little holes to anchor the glass. I'm actually looking forward to the stock gettin' here, so I can get at it. Thanks again. I will indeed update. I wish I knew how to post pics on here. I have a Choate Ultimate Varmint for sale. LOL