Sleuthing A Used Rifle

[Spin Drift]

I picked up this rifle used and it shoots pretty good but I have a few questions for you guys. This is a short action. The gun has been to a gunsmith at some point but I suspect somebody Bubba'd it a bit afterwards. This rifle has a krieger barrel 6.5x47L. The stock is MacMillan.

Question #1:
What bottom metal is this? This fits the AI mags. The bottom metal has been epoxied into the stock.
(ignore the arrow for now)
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_BottomMetal.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/BottomMetal.jpg.html)http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_MetalandMag.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/MetalandMag.jpg.html)

Question #2 (2 Parts):
What trigger is this and how do I adjust it?
The trigger is failing to cock sometimes, how do I remedy this? Pull is currently about 1.5 lbs.
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_Trigger.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/Trigger.jpg.html)

Question #3 (2 parts):
Why is there no barrel nut?
What brand recoil lug is this?
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_Lug.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/Lug.jpg.html)

Question #4:
Is there any reasonable reason for there to be only one screw holding the stock to the action? That's what the arrows are for, they mark the hole that had no screw when I pulled it apart. There was only one screw on the front of the action holding it on :( And shouldn't there be a pilar in there as well?
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_MissingBolttopview.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/MissingBolttopview.jpg.html)


I appreciate any info you guys can provide and I apologize of some of these questions are really obvious but I am pretty new to savages.

Thanks.

[bootsmcguire]

#1- I have no idea, unfortunately Aftermarket bottom metal is not something I am up on.

#2- not sure, but it looks kinda like a Rifle Basix. Hard for me to tell. I am sure another member will easily recognize it and help us out.

#3- recoil lug appears to be an aftermarket like SSS or NSS that has been coated black. If there are no markings visible there is no way to tell for sure. Some people prefer to have the nut removed and build their barrels with a shoulder like Remington uses. Me personally I think doing it this way takes away one of the best features of Savage rifles. Since the shoulder limits that barrel to only being able to be used with the action that the gunsmith mated it to it kinda takes the universal fit that the nut gives you away and forces you back to the smith if you want to move it to a new action for some reason.

#4- I can think of absolutely no reason why a person would only use 1 screw to hold the action in. There should be a bolt/screw in each hole fore and aft of the magazine well.

[Spin Drift]

#4- I can think of absolutely no reason why a person would only use 1 screw to hold the action in. There should be a bolt/screw in each hole fore and aft of the magazine well.

If I put a bolt in there, there will be a gap of about 3/8" between the stock and the action right where the bolt comes up. Will this be a problem? Here is a picture to show what I mean. I took a closer look and I think there is a pillar in the epoxy up front. I am wondering if the guy who did the hack job took the rear pillar out because it was probably too long to clear the bottom metal?

​http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_Gap.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/Gap.jpg.html)

From what I can tell this gun was put together and bedded by someone that knew what they were doing. And then at some point someone wanted to upgrade the bottom metal and did a scab job putting it in. It almost looks like he used an ice pick to chisel this out.

So If I need to put a pilar in the back, where and how do I order the right size and type?

Also, Gluing the bottom metal in seems like the wrong way for the job to have been done right?

[bootsmcguire]

If I put a bolt in there, there will be a gap of about 3/8" between the stock and the action right where the bolt comes up. Will this be a problem? Here is a picture to show what I mean.

​http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_Gap.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/Gap.jpg.html)



It appears that the bedding material around that screw is missing. I would probably re-bed it to get that material back where it belongs, but you should have 2 bolts in that rifle. Also I don't know if its just the angle of the pic, but it looks like the bolt you have in that hole is a bit too long, and you may have to get a new one or grind that one down.

[Spin Drift]

It appears that the bedding material around that screw is missing. I would probably re-bed it to get that material back where it belongs, but you should have 2 bolts in that rifle. Also I don't know if its just the angle of the pic, but it looks like the bolt you have in that hole is a bit too long, and you may have to get a new one or grind that one down.

It is not the correct bolt, just one for perspective.

Can I just re-bed the back part or do I need to do the whole thing?
Am I supposed to put a pillar in there when I re-bed the back or is just the bed material good to go?

[bootsmcguire]

Yes you probably can just re-bed that area. A pillar could help, but is not absolutely needed since its epoxy bedded.

[Spin Drift]

Yes you probably can just re-bed that area. A pillar could help, but is not absolutely needed since its epoxy bedded.


Do I need to go buy special bedding compound or do you guys just use regular epoxy?

Where can I get the missing bolt?

I looked up the Rifle Basix instructions and I think that you are correct and it is the SAV-1 Rifle Basix Trigger.


Thank you so much your help has been great.

[bootsmcguire]

Devcon is a popular bedding epoxy. JB Weld works good too.

You could order one from Savage, but I would just go to your hardware store and pick up a new allen bolt. The thread pitch is 1/4-28. You can guess-timate your length by installing the action and using your calipers to measure the depth. You will probably still have to grind the screw to fit, but it will be cheaper and better than the originals.

[bootsmcguire]

This might seem like a rookie comment, but don't forget to use a release agent or else you will epoxy your action right into the stock.

[Spin Drift]

This is great boots, I was all twisted up about this at first.
I even have some JB Weld.

I think I will build a dam out of model clay or something to stop the stuff from running down towards the trigger so I can build the material back up most of the way and then let it harden. Then I'll do a final thin coat with the action in place for proper bedding fit up. My plan is to put a bolt up through the hole coated in vaseline so the JB won't bond to it. Is this a good idea?

Edit: I was planning vaseline for a release agent?

[bootsmcguire]

it could work, I have never tried Vaseline, but I will say clear shoe polish will work.

[bootsmcguire]

With the release agent, more is definitely better than not enough.

[Spin Drift]

it could work, I have never tried Vaseline, but I will say clear shoe polish will work.

Then I will use clear shoe polish.

Thanks again.

[Spin Drift]

With the release agent, more is definitely better than not enough.

If only the guy before me had heard of that...

I think what I have here is the bottom metal permanently bonded to the stock. From what I can tell he didn't know how to cut out the stock properly so just hacked a big hole and epoxied it in, no release agent or anything like that. I don't see any way to remove this without destroying the stock. I guess it stays in.

[Spin Drift]

And here it goes. First attempt at any sort of bedding ever.

I am trying to build the height back up with this first layer. Then I'll clean it up and put a final skim coat to mate with the action. So far I am finding the JB to be a little bit thin and I can't seem to fill the voids up the side. I might have to let this harden and then tip the stock and fill the side a bit. The funny colored stuff is kids modeling clay. So far I'm into this project for $1.68 if we don't count the JB Weld I already had. I also got a free action screw from the local gun store.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_BeddingAttempt.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/BeddingAttempt.jpg.html)

[Robinhood]

Do you think that bottom metal was for a Remington.....

It is missing the mag release lever.

[bootsmcguire]

Could be I guess. I am not a Remmy guy (I just don't like 'em. Savage is simpler and more universal and normally cheaper and just as accurate) so I can't tell by looking, but if it were the screw holes would come close to lining up.

[Spin Drift]

Do you think that bottom metal was for a Remington.....

It is missing the mag release lever.

Edit- I think I found it. VBull bottom metal was sold by jwprecision but the website seems to be gone and I can find almost nothing on Vbull on the internet.

Just this
http://www.californiapredatorsclub.com/index.php?showtopic=11579


Mag release is not missing, just wasn't installed for that photo. Here's a different picture. The release has this little knurled screw thing that goes in the bottom. It can also be threaded into the hole in the side and that seems to work to lock the release so you can't dump the mag if you wanted to run it like that.

http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/vv124/feetfats/th_photo2.jpg (http://s676.photobucket.com/user/feetfats/media/photo2.jpg.html)

I think I will have to sand the inside surfaces of the bottom metal as it is tight on the AICS magazine. I am pretty sure the opening in the stock was tight and he just jammed it in, smushing the metal a bit.



Could be I guess. I am not a Remmy guy (I just don't like 'em. Savage is simpler and more universal and normally cheaper and just as accurate) so I can't tell by looking, but if it were the screw holes would come close to lining up.

The holes seem to line up well.

[Spin Drift]

I finally got the stock all done. I put it back together and torqued it up, then the trigger started acting up.

Took me a couple hours to figure out that part of the stock was contacting the over travel screw and basically pulling the trigger when the stock was up to full torque but not when partially torqued. I finally noticed a small shiny mark inside the stock.

I can't wait for the weather to get better (hopefully next weekend). Last time I took the rifle out (before I noticed the stock issues) I shot 10 different 100 yard 3 shot groups doing OCW load development. Worst group was 0.798", best was 0.307. The average of all of them was 0.492". All this with one action screw and contact on part of the trigger (trigger was acting up that day as well). I wanted a 1/2 moa gun but maybe it will do better.

Fingers Crossed...

PS. I spent a lot of time learning how to set the trigger and got the pull light and crisp. I found that when the trigger was set light enough the sear would disengage when the bolt was slapped shut. My assumption is that this is dangerous so I set the trigger pull tighter until that stopped happening and then gave it another part turn to be safe. Was this the correct way to set this? The Rifle Basix instructions did not mention this.